DizRotus Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 4 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: a pair of KP-2500's I'm thinking of de-furring. Is that like a Brazilian wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 19 minutes ago, DizRotus said: Is that like a Brazilian wax? That's one way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 The problem I may run into is that the cabinets MAY be MDF. That will make de-furring a challenge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 The 2500's are actually worse than MDF, its OSB board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 3 hours ago, jjptkd said: The 2500's are actually worse than MDF, its OSB board Ugh. I hate to hear that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 Sawdust finally flew. Both cabinets are mostly done, not counting Bondo, routing out motorboards, and rounding over edges. Photos tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 The rough assembly is done. I need some router accessories before I can rout out the motorboards. I was leaning toward the K76 over the APT50, but the laws of physics have made the decision for me. As can be seen by the photo of the components face down on a motorboard, there is no room for any of the APT50 horns. The only readily available alternative to the K76 is a K77 or the Bob Crites tweeters using the same horn profile. Since I have Crites titanium diaphragms for the K76s, I feel good about using those. Now I know why the H2s & H3s with front mounted horns and woofer require a cutout on the squawker horn to accommodate the woofer. There's just not enough surface area on the motorboard without it. I must admit, I always preferred the look of H1s with the metal horns, but I'm sure the new and "improved" plastic counterparts will sound spectacular. Right Claude, @ClaudeJ1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 On 8/11/2017 at 5:06 PM, John Albright said: The blue is kinda cute! I'll design you a crossover if you want. John, I welcome your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 20 hours ago, DizRotus said: Right Claude, @ClaudeJ1? Have not worked with the later Heresy horn/driver, but I'm sure that with a 1 db increment autoformer and incremental capacitor values we can tweak the response in the mids any way you like. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Apparently, I had a brain cramp about titanium midrange diaphragms from Bob Crites. He sent an email advising he never had any such things. It's just as well, now I can keep the squawker drivers as is and not wonder what I'm missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 The weather was great in Southeast Michigan. The router was busy doing round overs and cavities in the sides for handles. Tomorrow I'll do the openings on the motorboards and the port on the rear. Photos to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Not as much progress as hoped for. The photo shows the rear (left) and the front (right), as well as two sides, Before using the router to cut the non-circular holes in the motorboards, I need to make a pattern to guide the router. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 28, 2017 Author Share Posted October 28, 2017 I was hoping to put on Duratex this weekend, but the predicted high of 49 precludes that unless I do it indoors. A trial fit of the components. Tomorrow Duratex will be applied indoors. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 I like the fact that you used a radius router bit everywhere on this box........"smooth move" on your part! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 First coat of Duratex applied in my new subterranean paint booth. In addition to the SHs, the last of four TH subs got a first coat also. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 Nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 15 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said: Nice work. Hi Claude, sent you a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 23 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said: I like the fact that you used a radius router bit everywhere on this box........"smooth move" on your part! Am I correct in assuming you will use black Silicone to seal between the tweeter and mid horns? No leaks allowed in the box except the port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 There will be no leaks @ClaudeJ1. The cutout shown in the photo was necessary to front mount the horns without removing the drivers. A motorboard sub-assembly and gasket behind the horns anchors the horns and precludes leaks. That will be supplemented by black silicone, if necessary, after the completed box is pressure tested for leaks. The system would not lend itself to production, but is more elegant than a production friendly process. Such is the nature and potential of well thought out DIY. There will be no leaks, which can't be said of a typical Heresy box, which lacks a gasket under the back board. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 Years ago I asked a Klipsch representative whether a Heresy without a gasket seal under the back board was truly a "sealed" enclosure. The paraphrased response was, "it's sealed enough." These boxes will be sealed in fact, not merely "enough." @ClaudeJ1 I've built many speakers . . . not today, but many times over the decades, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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