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La Scala Splits Restoration


Maximus89

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7 hours ago, wvu80 said:

Have you removed the non-working K-43?  I can tell you how to test it with a 9-volt battery.

 

Also, don't worry about the AL XO.  If it sounds good to you that's all that matters.  Play your speakers, enjoy them, and then if there is a specific problem in the sound you want to work on there are some people here who can guide you.

Removed it and it looks fine and it's not stiff either. Let me see about testing it.

IMG_1799.JPG

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10 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

....................... this is apparently with the worst crossover Klipsch ever made (AL) and k-43's which apparently require much more power to move than the k-33.  ...................................

 

It's the other way around.  The K-43 is more sensitive than the K-33-E.  However, the Type AL IS the worst. 

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1 hour ago, Maximus89 said:

9V battery test - no movement or pop.  

What am i looking at?  Do i need a replacement?

 

Or Recone.  There is an Eminence 15' that  some here like, with good numbers for Klipsch Bass Horns.  Might be cheaper. 

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You could get Bob's CW1526  (made by Eminence), a K-33E replacement. His prices are great for these. He also has a cast frame version for a slightly higher cost, but I'm not sure those will fit in the LS cabinets.

 

Bruce

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12 hours ago, John Albright said:

 

Or Recone.  There is an Eminence 15' that  some here like, with good numbers for Klipsch Bass Horns.  Might be cheaper. 

Is a recone expensive?  I'd rather try and get this one fixed for a match instead of having to get 1 extra that is different, or be forced to get a pair and go through the hassle of trying to sell the k-43 and shipping which i hate doing.

 

 

3 hours ago, Davecv41 said:

Did you test the 9V battery first to see if it is good?

no, but i did test the bad k-43 in the functional k-43's dog house and vice versa.  All the same. 


I came across this post from 2005 by @djk   

"The main cause of failure in a K43 is the tinsel leads.

I would remove the woofer and have your local re-cone guy look at it before buying a replacement. If that's all it is he can fix it for less than $20. If need be he can also re-cone it for about $60~$70."

Here's mine, could this issue lead all the way inside where I can't see?

 

image.jpg

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@Maximus89are you checking out Ebay?  There seems to be a good supply of parts for your LS.  I saw a K-43 for $99+shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Klipsch-K-43-Speaker-15-034-nice-/162593974570?

 

There are some K-77s and EV-35's (same thing) on there.  There is also an AL-3 XO for $99 pr shipped if you want to go that way.

 

Before I bought from Ebay, I would put out a WTB here in the Garage Sale section.  I trust the members here.

 

 

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53 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

Here's mine, could this issue lead all the way inside where I can't see?

 

There is a tinsel braid that goes from those terminals to the voice coil. You may be able to see where they attach.

 

Bruce

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43 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

@Maximus89are you checking out Ebay?  There seems to be a good supply of parts for your LS.  I saw a K-43 for $99+shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Klipsch-K-43-Speaker-15-034-nice-/162593974570?

 

There are some K-77s and EV-35's (same thing) on there.  There is also an AL-3 XO for $99 pr shipped if you want to go that way.

 

Before I bought from Ebay, I would put out a WTB here in the Garage Sale section.  I trust the members here.

 

 

I've seen that one, but mine looks like brand new compared to that, and i'm not going to commit to anything until i take it to a shop and see what the cost of repair is.  As far as the tweeter, i think i may go the K-77F Magnet Assembly with Diaphragm from Crites route and just use my own horn, but im also contemplating one of the crappy aftermarket diaphragms from simplyspeakers for now(since they're only going to be used as surrounds anyway) until i get ct120 upgrades for my main LSi.

Here's a question.   Game of Thrones is tonight and my cousin and pals are coming over, i dont have the room to set it up right, but im going to use the 3 working LS as the LCR with my Chorus II as surrounds.  
With no woofer, but a functional mid horn and i have an after market tweeter laying around that i took out of a KLF-10, could i technically use this LS as a 6th channel surround with the subwoofer crossover as high as it goes(250hz)?  

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On 8/11/2017 at 2:50 AM, WMcD said:

If this is still an issue:

 

I would just restore the fuse situation to what the factory used rather than bypassing the fuse.

 

It is my understanding you need replacement caps for the fuse holders.  I doubt they're available alone but fuse holders are very inexpensive and you can just buy the assembly and use the cap.  Littelfuse makes fuses (fuse cartridges) and fuse holders.  I can't make out the lettering shown in the photo but I'm guessing the one you need might be the very common 

 

https://www.parts-express.com/littelfuse-3ag-panel-fuseholder--071-510

 

3AG refers to the physical size of the fuse cartridge for which the holder accepts.  The electrical rating of the fuse cartridge is 1 amp or 2 amp, etc. and can be "slow blow" or regular.  Check the schematic or label on the speaker terminal cup.

 

Additionally:  Inspect the fuse holder you have as best you can for manufacturer and model number.  Bussmann also makes them.  Again, you just want to buy the holder to get the cap.  Mouser.com is another source off electrical parts including fuse holders and fuses.

 

WMcD


I've looked at every store and i just came back from Altex electronics store and thought for sure i finally had it.  Looks just like the one in the link.  Nope.   Not the right one.  They're all screw in, i need a twist and lock.   You push the cap with the fuse in and twist to lock in place, so the cap needs these little hooks.  None of the fuse holders i've seen at Home Depot, Radio Shack, Walmart, automotive stores and Altex have it. They're all screw in.  I can solder the new fuse holders in, but i don't want to mess with that.

There's no way of knowing what i'm ordering online because they don't show the photo of the cap, they just show the fuse holder with cap already in place.

EDIT:  Just clicked that link again and read this comment in the review:  "The metal tabs that lock the cap in place bend very easily and then the fuse doesn't stay in."  Other than a bad review, it sounds like this is finally it!  Metal tabs you twist to lock into place is exactly the type of cap i need!

Thanks!

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The tinsel leads fail where they are crimped with a ferrule to the voice-coil wire (under the dustcap).

 

Cut off the dustcap leaving about an 1/8" ridge on the cone. Split the ferrule with a pair of sharp sidecutters. Use your ohmmeter directly on the voice-coil wire. If it measures right, replace the tinsel leads, and dustcap. Wick the solder out of the terminal on the frame, run the new lead through the terminal eyelet, bend it over and then solder it to one of the lugs. Coat the tinsel lead going through the terminal with Weldbond.

 

EM-Alpha-6a-2.jpg

The solder must have some silver in it (2% or better). Glue a new dustcap onto the ridge (you left on the cone) with Weldbond.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Maximus89 said:

What's the name of that Eminence 15'' driver?

Thanks

Kappa 15c. $100 each at Parts Express. Many here have tried it and like it very much. Claude has been touting it for several years now. I would say it is equal to the K33 and handles a little more power just like the k43. I currently run 4 sets of speakers  (2 Belle, 2 LS) utilizing 4 different pairs of woofers, K33s, K43s, Crites cast frames and the Kappa 15c s each driving one set. I like them all and would be hard pressed to give you a clear winner. All four perform wonderfully IMO

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6 hours ago, Maximus89 said:


I've looked at every store and i just came back from Altex electronics store and thought for sure i finally had it.  Looks just like the one in the link.  Nope.   Not the right one.  They're all screw in, i need a twist and lock.   You push the cap with the fuse in and twist to lock in place, so the cap needs these little hooks.  None of the fuse holders i've seen at Home Depot, Radio Shack, Walmart, automotive stores and Altex have it. They're all screw in.  I can solder the new fuse holders in, but i don't want to mess with that.

There's no way of knowing what i'm ordering online because they don't show the photo of the cap, they just show the fuse holder with cap already in place.

EDIT:  Just clicked that link again and read this comment in the review:  "The metal tabs that lock the cap in place bend very easily and then the fuse doesn't stay in."  Other than a bad review, it sounds like this is finally it!  Metal tabs you twist to lock into place is exactly the type of cap i need!

Thanks!

Again, I believe if you check the lettering on the unit you'll see it corresponds to what I recommended.  By the way, that is a bayonet type locking system named after a similar twist and lock on the knife fitted to the end of a military rifle.  

 

Let us all know how things worked out.

 

WMcD

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Just got back from a recone shop!

@djk's post from 2005 stating that the k-43 had tinsel leads issues was spot on!  Turns out that's all it was! Quick and easy and cheap fix! So happy right now!

Now all i'm waiting on are those damn fuse caps to arrive and I hope they're the right ones!

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1 hour ago, Maximus89 said:

Just got back from a recone shop!

@djk's post from 2005 stating that the k-43 had tinsel leads issues was spot on!  Turns out that's all it was! Quick and easy and cheap fix! So happy right now!

Now all i'm waiting on are those damn fuse caps to arrive and I hope they're the right ones!

It's incredible how much detailed technical information is available on this site!  

 

Good job troubleshooting and solving the problems. 

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Unbelievable.   Package just arrived.  Once again....WRONG fuse caps.   I think I've spent almost $40 on fuses and fuse holders hoping the cap would work.  I'm left with no choice but to find someone who can solder the new fuse holders into place.

 

Though...there is one option:  There's an Al 3 xover on ebay for a great price, but the parts look really old and rusted.  Is that an issue?  2 days left on the bid, so I've got time to think about it.  Maybe for now I can use those as my main speakers xover and then when I order a new one from Crites, I can move the older original AL-3 to the surround LSi. Hmm.

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7 minutes ago, Davecv41 said:

Could you post a picture of the fuse cap, preferably on top of a steel ruler? Someone may a spare or have one in a parts bin on the workbench.

Only have measuring tape. The fuse cap has little small hooks that lock it into place when you push and twist into the holder 

IMG_1877.JPG

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