Maximus89 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 18 minutes ago, wvu80 said: It would be unlikely for all the drivers in two separate speakers to all blow at the same time. Those fuses are where I would start looking. Just put the fuses from one good speaker into the 1 bad painted one and to my surprise it worked. The mid and tweeter sound fine. Only problem? Woofers not working. Let me try the other bad soeaker next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 Tried the second bad one. Woofer works. Mid works. Tweeter doesn't work so....what is it with the fuses? I do need them to work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 Used an entire can of this "jasco" stripper and it's worthless. Barley removed anything. I was getting so frustrated when I finally reminded myself that I made an amazing deal for LSi sitting in my room right now. This pair I'm fixing up were basically free throw ins, so I have to relax and be patient and quit bitching. Later today, i'll go get some Citristrip and focus on one of the speakers with all working drivers so that hopefully I can get it all done in time to use as a center channel for Game Of Thrones on Sunday night. If it comes down to it, the entire speaker cabinet is plywood right? How ugly is it if I removed all of the black paint via sanding(I did it to my Chorus II's)? What would I be looking at if I just took it down to raw plywood and threw on some Danish oil with walnut stain in it? Pretty ugly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 My question would be, what is your end game here? Do you want walnut stained? If so, you are looking at a lot of work, and IMHO, would probably not look that great, unless you are a very accomplished woodworker. If you want/can accept a nice looking pair of black finished splits, then stop right where you are, smooth out the surfaces, and get a gallon of Duratex and a roller. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 9 minutes ago, jimjimbo said: My question would be, what is your end game here? Do you want walnut stained? If so, you are looking at a lot of work, and IMHO, would probably not look that great, unless you are a very accomplished woodworker. If you want/can accept a nice looking pair of black finished splits, then stop right where you are, smooth out the surfaces, and get a gallon of Duratex and a roller. I did it to my Chorus II. They were originally black oak, and sanded them down and applied Danish Oil Walnut and I thought it came out nice: Though you're right. The Chorus was already veneered and plain plywood will probably look terrible. I'll just stick with Duratex as you said. As of right now, I think i'm going to just keep this extra pair of LSi so it's best they match and maybe one day I can start a new project where I properly veneer all 4 of them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Here's one of my earlier projects 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 2 minutes ago, jimjimbo said: Here's one of my earlier projects Those look great! Gives me hope. You just used a roller? Looks like you sanded both though, is that right? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 I did sand both, but obviously not completely down. And yes all I used was a roller… you don't need to send them all the way down at all, just smooth them out and put on the duratex. Two coats will be perfect and you will never know what was under there previously! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 Just now, jimjimbo said: I did sand both, but obviously not completely down. And yes all I used was a roller… you don't need to send them all the way down at all, just smooth them out and put on the duratex. Two coats will be perfect and you will never know what was under there previously! I should still try and use stripper to get most of the white paint out first though, right? Or should I sand it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 You are not going to use Duratex on the horns, only the cabinet. Pull out all of the horns and drivers from the cabinet and apply the Duratex. On the mid horn use rust oleum canyon black color 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Believe me, after two coats of Duratex on the cabinet you will not see the white paint anymore.Don't even bother continuing to strip it off 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 Just now, jimjimbo said: Believe me, after two coats of Duratex on the cabinet you will not see the white paint anymore. Ok great, but what about the horns? Can I use the rust oleum canyon black right over the white painted horns? Skipping the stripping process would speed everything up drastically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 4 minutes ago, Maximus89 said: I'll just stick with Duratex as you said. As of right now, I think i'm going to just keep this extra pair of LSi so it's best they match and maybe one day I can start a new project where I properly veneer them. Duratex is expensive. I've used satin black latex paint with a 3/8" fine nap roller on some MDF DIY speakers. It took a couple of coats but the finish looks real good. Go to Lowes and you will find some interior/exterior paint, the web site only lists the expensive Valspar brand. Everybody makes black paint which is cheaper. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 That is a little more difficult to answer. I would try a little bit of stripper on an inconspicuous spot outside of the throat of the horn and see what happens. Maybe someone else will chime in and give some advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 This is what I'm working with. Haven't touched the horns yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 I just read Jimbo's comments. Agree with him on everything. The Duratex is more expensive but it covers a lot of warts. I also like the Rustoleum spray paint for the horns. It covers evenly and looks great. That is not the place I would cheap out for a $10 can of paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 How do I remove the drivers from this one? Just the screws all around the edges of the front baffle(not the screws holding the horns yet) and then pull forward? Simple as that? What about pulling out the K43 driver? I read somewhere about not laying it the wrong way or it will mess up the driver suspension or something like that? I assume you have to lay it on its side, just not face down? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Please. Slow down. Take a look at what screws are holding in place. Take the actual driver off the horn, and it will be much easier to remove. Actually, you should lay the woofer face down on a piece of cardboard, etc. NOT on it's side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 33 minutes ago, Maximus89 said: How do I remove the drivers from this one? Just the screws all around the edges of the front baffle(not the screws holding the horns yet) and then pull forward? Simple as that? You'll need to remove the terminal cup and handle. That will give you access to the driver bracket which needs to come loose. You can turn the terminal cup sideways and place it inside the cabinet so it comes out with the assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Duratex is not that expensive, considering how well it performs, and the coverage you get. Spray paint, or any other paint pales in comparison. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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