La Scala Splits Restoration

[Marvel]

4 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

I don't think that one will work and I've been to 4 stores and they all have that same one but none are the ones I'm looking for with the twist cap. 

I still don't even understand how several made comments about how I didn't need the fuses, yet the speakers wouldn't work without them when I tested them.   Do I have to unplug something in the crossover and then the speakers will work without the fuses?

 

I believe they probably meant you could bypass the fuses. Most of the consumer LS do not have fuses in them, and most don't drive them to the point where fuses would be needed. Some feel they are detrimental to to signal quality.

 

Bruce

[Maximus89]

1 hour ago, Marvel said:

 

I believe they probably meant you could bypass the fuses. Most of the consumer LS do not have fuses in them, and most don't drive them to the point where fuses would be needed. Some feel they are detrimental to to signal quality.

 

Bruce

Ah okay.  I have no idea how to bypass the fuses though or what it means in terms of the crossover.  Will it require soldering and new parts?  Or does it just mean disconnecting them directly from the crossover? 

[Maximus89]

Done with the 1 that's fully functional(other than fuse or learning how to bypass the fuse which I can't get a straight answer on how to do it). 

Shes not winning any beauty contests but sure beats what it orginally looked like! 

 

That center corner protector came out horrible. The stripper ruined its texture and the scrapper made it all warped. Just had it on for transport. Going to take it off to show off the beautiful perfect corner. 

That is the 1 badge of 4 that was salvageable but looks obvious in the light that I used a marker bc it has a purple sheen to it.  The rest of the badges are ruined. 

Wish I got a more even spray on the mid horn.

 

[wvu80]

That's the white speaker?  Wow, it looks great!  Ask around, I think there are some people who might provide you with an un-official Klipsch badge.

 

So, is this a keeper?  I know you were thinking L/R, with SR and SL, but I bet three across the front would sound awesome.

 

Can I get an amen, @Youthman?

 

 

[Marvel]

Look at this thread:

 

Find the AL and AL3 crossovers. The input jacks (I can't remember what is used on these, Maybe post a pic of the input section) sbould connect to the crossover. Since this LS was also made to bi-amp (use two amps for each speaker, one for the bass cabinet and one for the mid/tweeter section), there is a fuse for each. Each fuse holder should have two wires going to it. The easy way is to cut the two wires and join them together. I'm not being critical here but if you think this is beyond your capabilities, find someone to help you. The AL schematic will be useful to do this. Many folks don't like the AL and change to an AL3 or totally replace with an A or AA crossover. Deang makea great one with expensive parts and Bob Crites makes new replacements that work very well.

 

Bruce

[Maximus89]

Yep that was the worst of the white painted, but somehow was the fully functional speaker. Thanks. I think they look good too! I think maybe down the road I want different badges for my main la scalas. Was thinking copper plated and some nice spiked feet for the top that I can spray paint metallic copper to match. 

 

For now I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the 2nd pair of LSi.  I have my CII up for sale and that could fund the repairs for the last la Scala, bc im still not sure what the issue is with the K-43. Maybe it just needs a recone. Haven't taken it out yet. If it needs to be replaced, I have to replace both woofers and that's where I start to question what to do bc I also wanted to upgrade the tweeters and crossover in my main LR set up. Maybe bypassing the fuses will be a good enough upgrade in sound quality that I can put off upgrades?

 

For now im just going to focus on fixing up the white paint issue on the last one. Hopefully I'll start sanding tomorrow, but definitely skipping the stripper process this time around!

[WMcD]

If this is still an issue:

 

I would just restore the fuse situation to what the factory used rather than bypassing the fuse.

 

It is my understanding you need replacement caps for the fuse holders.  I doubt they're available alone but fuse holders are very inexpensive and you can just buy the assembly and use the cap.  Littelfuse makes fuses (fuse cartridges) and fuse holders.  I can't make out the lettering shown in the photo but I'm guessing the one you need might be the very common 

 

https://www.parts-express.com/littelfuse-3ag-panel-fuseholder--071-510

 

3AG refers to the physical size of the fuse cartridge for which the holder accepts.  The electrical rating of the fuse cartridge is 1 amp or 2 amp, etc. and can be "slow blow" or regular.  Check the schematic or label on the speaker terminal cup.

 

Additionally:  Inspect the fuse holder you have as best you can for manufacturer and model number.  Bussmann also makes them.  Again, you just want to buy the holder to get the cap.  Mouser.com is another source off electrical parts including fuse holders and fuses.

 

WMcD

[Marvel]

btw, the paint job looks terrific! I wish I had some split LS. They would be much easier to move around.

 

Bruce

[Maximus89]

6 hours ago, WMcD said:

If this is still an issue:

 

I would just restore the fuse situation to what the factory used rather than bypassing the fuse.

 

It is my understanding you need replacement caps for the fuse holders.  I doubt they're available alone but fuse holders are very inexpensive and you can just buy the assembly and use the cap.  Littelfuse makes fuses (fuse cartridges) and fuse holders.  I can't make out the lettering shown in the photo but I'm guessing the one you need might be the very common 

 

https://www.parts-express.com/littelfuse-3ag-panel-fuseholder--071-510

 

3AG refers to the physical size of the fuse cartridge for which the holder accepts.  The electrical rating of the fuse cartridge is 1 amp or 2 amp, etc. and can be "slow blow" or regular.  Check the schematic or label on the speaker terminal cup.

 

Additionally:  Inspect the fuse holder you have as best you can for manufacturer and model number.  Bussmann also makes them.  Again, you just want to buy the holder to get the cap.  Mouser.com is another source off electrical parts including fuse holders and fuses.

 

WMcD

Yeah , I've seen a few online that I can just use the cap from but I wanted to find it in a store that I can drive to instead of waiting for shipping. RadioShack has some online but the nearest stores are all closed permanently and the few further away could possibly be all out so I need to call them so they can check the part # and if they have 4 total. 

 

2 hours ago, Marvel said:

btw, the paint job looks terrific! I wish I had some split LS. They would be much easier to move around.

 

Bruce

Appreciate it! I can only imagine how difficult it is without the split top. Though, it isn't the most in home looking speaker. I love a beautiful wood veneer. 

[Ceptorman]

Nice work Max, looks spectacular.

[Marvel]

I had a nice looking pair, but sold them a few years ago. Found some empty cabs and accumulated the parts. Slowly getting them together. I may use a roundover bit and paint with black duratex. I'm front mounting the horns.

 

 

[Maximus89]

Love the front mount!

[WMcD]

Looking at the photo closely I come to the conclusion there is a high likelihood you have Bussmann HKP.

 

I got the pdf attached from the Mouser site.  You can buy them there for about $4.05 apiece, plus shipping.  Buy some fuses while you're at it to make shipping costs worthwhile. 

 

I sympathize that you want to drive someplace to buy the units.  But I doubt you'll find them and you'll be wasting time and money.

 

WMcD

 

 

Bussmann HKP.pdf

[Maximus89]

35 minutes ago, WMcD said:

Looking at the photo closely I come to the conclusion there is a high likelihood you have Bussmann HKP.

 

I got the pdf attached from the Mouser site.  You can buy them there for about $4.05 apiece, plus shipping.  Buy some fuses while you're at it to make shipping costs worthwhile. 

 

I sympathize that you want to drive someplace to buy the units.  But I doubt you'll find them and you'll be wasting time and money.

 

WMcD

 

 

Bussmann HKP.pdf

Hmm looks the same from the one on sale at radioshack except the one you posted has black letters and arrows while the radioshack one has it in white just like the originals
https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-screw-cap-panel-mount-fuse-holder

[Maximus89]

Do you LS owners turn the doghouse into the corners for better bass or is that too boomy?   Basically was thinking about placement similar to that of a KHorn in the corner with the trapezoid top pushed back into the corner even deeper.

[Marvel]

1 hour ago, Maximus89 said:

Do you LS owners turn the doghouse into the corners for better bass or is that too boomy?   Basically was thinking about placement similar to that of a KHorn in the corner with the trapezoid top pushed back into the corner even deeper.

 

A couple of folks have done that, but obviously, I  can't try that.

 

Because of the construction/geometry of the horn, I don't think it would quite work properly.

 

Bruce

[JohnA]

3 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

Do you LS owners turn the doghouse into the corners for better bass or is that too boomy?   Basically was thinking about placement similar to that of a KHorn in the corner with the trapezoid top pushed back into the corner even deeper.

 

No, but since yours are 2-piece you can give it a try.  Measure the area of the bass horn's mouth, about 4 sq ft, divide by 2, and space the cabinet that far from the side walls, about 12 inches.  You want to continue expanding the area of the sound path as smoothly as possible.  If that works, you might consider putting a V of plywood in the corner and pulling the La Scala out of the corner a little more to make a W shaped sound path.  It *could* add some low bass response to your La Scalas. 

 

Remember smoothly increasing area. 

[32blownhemi]

3 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

Do you LS owners turn the doghouse into the corners for better bass or is that too boomy?   Basically was thinking about placement similar to that of a KHorn in the corner with the trapezoid top pushed back into the corner even deeper.

 

Not trying to bug you cuz you didn't do it BUT 3/4" plywood on the sides. I can hear the difference while listening to Eminem (Rap)... Or you can put braces on the insides of the bins but I'm not familiar on doing it that way... 

[Maximus89]

So i've been taking a break and i've got the 2nd coat on the last LSi, before i then focus my attention on what that issue is with the non working k-43 and choosing what to do about the bad diaphragm in the tweeter(youthman just sold 1 k-77- i missed it!). Anyway, been jamming low volumes mostly and now turning it up a bit and i'm all smiles. At first, i really noticed how they don't go anywhere as low as the Chorus II, but it just sounds "right" with the LS and this is apparently with the worst crossover Klipsch ever made (AL) and k-43's which apparently require much more power to move than the k-33.  I can only imagine what these speakers sound like in a larger area and with all the upgrades i'm day dreaming about. 

Still playing around with placement.  Directly facing me was a bit too strong.   Have the tops facing forward right now. Will try deep in to the corner like a Khorn next.  Then i'll try aiming slightly behind my position as well.

[wvu80]

Have you removed the non-working K-43?  I can tell you how to test it with a 9-volt battery.

 

Also, don't worry about the AL XO.  If it sounds good to you that's all that matters.  Play your speakers, enjoy them, and then if there is a specific problem in the sound you want to work on there are some people here who can guide you.