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effect of 2.5mh vs 3mh inductor on same load?


Alexander

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Got to finish up one speaker. Geoff, the motor board was like you found on yours. It looked like the brace blocks were doing the bulk of the work holding it in place. The seams were extremely narrow - say the thickness of a piece of paper but they were there none the less. Gorilla white glue was used, it is very runny so the cabinet was tilted letting gravity do the work. It did take longer this way but it is what was on hand. :) Tried hot glue but just could not do the  job the way I wanted it to be done.

t50001.jpg

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On ‎11‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 10:12 AM, Geoff. said:

Hi Alexander, saw your other post about grilles.

 

The T-500s I had were missing grilles too.

 

Here is a picture of the T-5000 grilles.

 

If you need more pics, any questions, just ask!

 

 

1C15BF85-8205-4FEE-9186-0F4AFE0625AA.jpeg

Thanks  Geoff, it will be a bit of time before I could build something like that from scratch.

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I just picked up a pair of Forte 1 and was going thru the ALK forte xover design and found myself here.  Are you saying that the Forte also has motor board ungluing problems? I just redid my KLF20s, what a job.   I go the Forte because I was not happy with the overal sound of the KLF20s compared to my Heresys.  The price was right so I could not pass. 

 

How is the new cross over for your ForteII vs the original? 

 

thanks 

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11 hours ago, efzauner said:

I just picked up a pair of Forte 1 and was going thru the ALK forte xover design and found myself here.  Are you saying that the Forte also has motor board ungluing problems? I just redid my KLF20s, what a job.   I go the Forte because I was not happy with the overal sound of the KLF20s compared to my Heresys.  The price was right so I could not pass. 

 

How is the new cross over for your ForteII vs the original? 

 

thanks 

No  efzauner, have never heard of the forte's having such an issue with any part of the cabinet.  I am getting ready to upgrade the ALK forte II xovers with a bit better caps, going to replace the  Solens from the original ALK parts list to Jantzen standard z-caps. Will also be using some left over Daytons to replace the NPE & Mylar caps. This new version will also have the ability to run bi amping if I wanted to do at some point. The "first gen" ALK forte II so to speak made the speakers sound as if you had removed the grilles might be the best way for me to describe it. We will see if we improve on this with the new caps, the z-caps are not a very large jump from the Solen pieces I've been told.

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10 hours ago, efzauner said:

what did the ALK's do for imaging?  is that built by yourself from the ALK schematic?  

 

 

To be fair to the design I had issues with one of the boards at first and though it was fixed I question my work (was my first shot at this stuff). So that is why we are starting over.  

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1 hour ago, Alexander said:

To be fair to the design I had issues with one of the boards at first and though it was fixed I question my work (was my first shot at this stuff). So that is why we are starting over.  

in what way? just assembled things incorrectly?  

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