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Forte III bi wire


buf
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Those speaker terminals are not separate amp channels, just paralleled outputs of the same channel (note the warning in the manual regarding running two pair of low impedance speakers).  

 

If it sounds better to you, great, but what you're claiming (the cause being increased power) is physically impossible.

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I actually rather wish Klipsch would stop making dual binding posts - or at least stop marketing it as a means for bi-wiring and bi-amping.  Hell, even at least explain how to bi-amp and what is necessary for true passive bi-amping (as John is talking about) where two amps are required for an appreciable power increase, and active bi-amping (with a crossover).

 

I've yet to see an AVR that executes a bi-amp the way it's supposed to be executed, and if it's wrong, it's not right.  AVR bi-amping is a glorified bi-wire, afaic.

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I agree with Ski Bum.

 

There are a lot of stereo receivers historically with A and B speaker output.  You can use the front panel switch to select A or B or A and B.

 

There are only left and right amps (i.e two amps) inside the box and not A stereo pair and B pair amps (which would be four amps).  Some modern home theater boxes may have many amplifiers but that is not what we're discussing.

 

There  is a theory out there that biwiring solves a problem which really does not exist. It is that the bass signal and treble signal in the speaker feed wire somehow interfere and separate wire pairs prevent this. It is non-sense because bass and treble signals have been using one wire pair (of a stereo pair) all the way from the microphone, to mixing board, to recorder (be it digital or analog), to playback.  And also going through transistors and tubes and transformers with no problems.

 

WMcD

 

PS by edit.  You can't make things better by solving a problem which does not exist.

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1 hour ago, buf said:

Vandersteen all but requires bi wiring and advocated for it. Many high end speaker manufactures (e.g. Revel) make provisions for bi wiring and then there is this: https://www.qacoustics.co.uk/blog/2016/06/08/bi-wiring-speakers-exploration-benefits/

How would you require a bi-wire?  Jumper cables are cheap to make, and can be had with little time or effort - and are essentially what bridges are...

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I have heard several times about Cambridge soundworks speakers sound better bi-wired (not bi-amped). This is most likely due to the jumpers. The signal probably travels better through the copper wire compared to Cambridge soundworks' brass jumpers.

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Oh boy, this could turn into another speaker cable thread :D

 

Without seeing the application, length of cables and other vital variables, it's best that we not say anything... but that and Vodka never stops us. :P

I can see how it could make a difference. Doesn't Ohm's law say that the tommyknockers work twice as freely when R is cut in half?  

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7 hours ago, JohnJ said:

Speakers A for HF

Speakers B for LF

I use A & B both to run one set of speakers. That's what bi-wiring is.

The way my amp works it only puts out 60wpc when using both sets of outputs. 60 x 4 is 120 to the right and 120 to the left channel.

 

Sewell does not agree with your implementation of bi-wiring.

https://sewelldirect.com/learning-center/bi-wire-and-bi-amp

 

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<<<first post.

 

I initially tried bi-wiring my RP250F's on a whim, and was certain I could hear a difference.  perhaps it is simply that the secondary speaker wire sounded better than relying on the jumpers?  who knows.  I moved my RP250Fs to a 5.0 setup I just put together, and now that I have Forte III's for the 2 channel, I am continuing to bi-wire them, because why not.

 

I bought a 50' spool of 4 conductor x14 gauge Carol cable, and use it with bare wire terminations.  Cheap and effective.  I've made 5 speaker cables out of it.  two for my 2.0, and 3 for my 5.0 LCRs.  (Only the L and R are bi-wired; I made the Center's wire two conductor....)

 

might be snake oil to some people, but it was only $65 bucks for 5 cables that sound great to me. 

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