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Bought an MC250. Great sounding amp


avguytx

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I don't really need another amplifier but have been contemplating a Mac amp to add to my small group.  I'm not wanting something big as I'm hoping to have my Belle clones done in the next month (starting this weekend) so the 2505 at a rated 50wpc should be more than enough.  What's an average fair price to pay for one in untouched condition with the glass intact?  How much would a person expect to put into it to get up to date?  Is recapping it something I could do on my own possibly?  I've built the Dynaco VTA ST-70 tube amp, recapped my Soundcraftsmen DX4200 preamp, built a Carver C-1 with BillD mods (over 200 pieces to swap), recapped maybe a dozen vintage era receivers though the years, and just received the parts to rebuild my Sony STR-6060F receiver.  So I have that ability to replace parts no problem but I don't have test gear such as scopes....just a few Fluke meters.  (that and a quarter will get me a cup of coffee.  ha)

 

It seems the little 2505 is quite touted as a very good S/S amplifier and was tested back then to be a darn good performer going above its power rating.  But I think 50 a side would be more than enough plus I like the looks of the amps with the blue meters on it.  ha.  The one I'm looking at doesn't have the wooden case nor does the preamp he has to go with it.  I don't really even want the preamp as I have the Onkyo P-3000R and Carver C-1 which I know the MX112 won't best in any way.

 

Just curious of opinions.  Thanks in advance.

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I believe you can do everything yourself on the older 2505s and 2105s. My father in law and I did a 2105 about a year ago. I gave it to him for Christmas. We were easily able to clean the pots and replace caps as needed. The bigger power supply caps in the back may or may not be bad. They were expensive last time I checked. You can replace the boards if you feel its necessary for 300ish for the parts? Personally we waited a month before we decided to recap it to see if we liked it the way it was in its current condition or not. We got curious so we did. The glass is readily available from McIntosh for a small price (120ish?) if something were to ever happen. They do runs about every six months of the older glass. You can send it off to someone and they charge about 7-800 dollars to do a full upgrade electronically last time I checked. 

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The MC 250 is the exact same amp as the 2505 without the meters. You are paying a premium for the meters and the glass, and of course the possibility of extra issues down the road. The MC 250s are extremely easy to work with, and considering what you have already done in the past you should have no problem with that

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It seems that most all of the iterations of the MC250 are similar in price and even around the range of the MC2100.  I still kick myself for not buying an MC2100 about 9 years back for $150 that was at a pawn shop in Denton, TX where I lived.  Oh well.  It's not that often that Mac gear comes up around here and it kind of scares me that the guy on CL has had these listed for months now and they're still there.    Makes me wonder if others have gone to look at it and then said....uh, pass.  

 

I do like those pretty blue meters, though.  ha

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And it came in today safe and sound. After looking over the boards underneath,  I can see why it buzzes. It'll need some fresh parts put in it to make it right again. But that will happen after my Belle project is done. Thankfully,  I have a reasonably clean amp to work with. Heavy little booger. 

20170927_153722-1280x720.jpg

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I think this is a pretty special amp. I don't like many McIntosh amps, but this one is a sweetheart. This, the MC50's, the MC100's, and the MC2100 (or 2105) are my favorite McIntosh amps by far. They are different, and special. I don't know if it is because the output transformers were great in these earlier solid state Mac's, but that is my theory.

 

All the electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced, including the multi-section and filter capacitors. Flying saucer pre-driver transistors must go, and all the carbon resistors need to be checked. Any that are out of range MUST be replaced. They can and do drift in value.

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From research, it seems that this model, along with those others listed, were well thought of.  The layout underneath looks to be fairly easy to work on as far as parts exchanges and testing.  She needs a little cleaning under the hood but that will come in due time.  I may do some comparison with the service manual to see if it follows along for the parts and their locations then try to get some of the parts I'll need ordered.  There might be some time here and there to work on it at night along the way since I can only work on the Belle project on the weekends.  But I do look forward to getting it back to working order and putting it to use.

 

 

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12 hours ago, jimjimbo said:

Fully agree with Paul.  I have two that were completely restored, and have them hooked to a pair of Chorus II's.....simply fantastic.

 

I'm currently using one, restored by Audio Classics, driven by a Mac MX110 pre, with my Cornwall II's. Would love to try a second one. What improvements, differences did you find when using them as mono blocks?

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15 minutes ago, svberger said:

What improvements, differences did you find when using them as mono blocks?

 

I am using a pair of MC2002's bridged mono and the performance noticeably improved especially with respect to rise time / transient response. My Chorus II's had better mid-bass and the cymbals sustained nicely. Plus more power is better but I have run the amps into Powergard so yes the Chorus II's have no issue with power handling.

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38 minutes ago, Ole Dollar said:

 

I am using a pair of MC2002's bridged mono and the performance noticeably improved especially with respect to rise time / transient response. My Chorus II's had better mid-bass and the cymbals sustained nicely. Plus more power is better but I have run the amps into Powergard so yes the Chorus II's have no issue with power handling.

Oh, those are much more powerful then the 250. That some set up. 

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