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Best DIY subwoofer?


Rudy81

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On ‎12‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 9:31 PM, Rudy81 said:

  I went for the locking rabbet type of joinery I used on my H frame open baffles.  That joint did not work well on plywood as compared to the the thick butcher block of the H frame build.

That's a lot of unnecessary work.  Cut flat panels, use PL Premium, clamp.  That's it.  After 1 hour scrape off excess.  If you're in a hurry, clamp then use a finish nailer to hold everything together while the glue dries.  Unclamp and go to the next panel.  The joint will be at least as strong as the paneling itself.

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I agree that the locking rabbet was way too much work for little or no gain.  However, the biscuits have turned out to be a real help.  Using biscuits lock the panels in place while I install the pocket screws.  No clamps required after the screws are set.  Works very well and make for perfect seams.  I am almost finished with the last two boxes.  Should get done with them tomorrow.

 

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43 minutes ago, Rudy81 said:

I agree that the locking rabbet was way too much work for little or no gain.  However, the biscuits have turned out to be a real help.  Using biscuits lock the panels in place while I install the pocket screws.  No clamps required after the screws are set.  Works very well and make for perfect seams.  I am almost finished with the last two boxes.  Should get done with them tomorrow.

 

Great idea.  Tightening the pocket screws will make the panels walk off line if there's nothing to hold the panels in place.

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On 12/14/2017 at 8:00 PM, CECAA850 said:

Kreg creep.  Never heard that before but it's dead on.  I like it.

 

I guess ever since the Kreg jig became a popular and quick method of making pocket screws that small annoyance inherited the Kreg name.

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Do you guys have any recommendation for a paint finish that I can apply in the shop?  I normally shoot lacquer, but with the cooler temperatures this time of year it is not an option.

 

I am considering bed liner finish which is rather popular in the subwoofer world.

 

Preferred color will be black.  Ideas?

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11 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Having someone spray a sub with bedliner material would be infinitely more expensive than Duratex as well.

No doubt.  Down to deciding between shooting lacquer or going with Duratex.  I should have done the project earlier in the year. However, no point in rushing at this stage. 

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After much thought I decided to go with black lacquer to match the rest of my gear. I used just one gallon of lacquer which cost $39.  I already had all the gear needed and used my HVLP gun to spray the four cabs.  I will give them a few days to cure and let the fumes evaporate in my shop rather than my house.  Looking forward to placing them in the room and seeing how well they perform.

 

 

Fronts.jpg

Paint_1.jpg

Paint_2.jpg

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Finally got a chance to lug the 4 full Marty's up to the media room.  Had to remove the three RSW-15's and two SPUD subs to make room.  Definitely got my workout today.  Good news is no walls were damaged while moving all the large, heavy enclosures. 

 

At first glance the boxes seem to be pretty similar in tuning. 

 

I hope to get things hooked up tomorrow and start integrating the 4 subs into the system.

 

I suspect there will not be a lack of bass in the room when I'm done.  Just have to figure out how to set up the active crossovers to handle everything.....

DualMartyInstalledSM.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 10/24/2017 at 5:24 PM, Rudy81 said:

This is going to be nice!  No more struggling with large pieces.  Also finished the basic setup on the router table.  A few more weeks and I can get to the sub build.

 

It's always better to move the Blade across the WORK, rather than move the WORK across the Blade!!

 

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