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Water Heater Anode Question


tigerwoodKhorns

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My electric hot water heater and well pump blows every 6 years on a regular schedule. The anode usually has disappeared because of the 5.3PH water which dissolves hot water tanks and well pumps and copper pipe and fittings. All the pipe has been replaced with PVC schedule 80 and stainless other stuff. The toilet screws in the tank are also stainless or the bowl will fall off the toilet. All the internals are plastic. The Maytag washer is the exception as it is a 1980's model. Sink and bathroom faucets also dissolve after 6 years. No room in the house for chemical treatment and no room in the well pit. Well, what the heck the chemical containers would probably dissolve anyway.

JJK

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6 minutes ago, JJkizak said:

My electric hot water heater and well pump blows every 6 years on a regular schedule. The anode usually has disappeared because of the 5.3PH water which dissolves hot water tanks and well pumps and copper pipe and fittings. All the pipe has been replaced with PVC schedule 80 and stainless other stuff. The toilet screws in the tank are also stainless or the bowl will fall off the toilet. All the internals are plastic. The Maytag washer is the exception as it is a 1980's model. Sink and bathroom faucets also dissolve after 6 years. No room in the house for chemical treatment and no room in the well pit. Well, what the heck the chemical containers would probably dissolve anyway.

JJK

 

 

You should make whiskey with that water.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Coytee said:

Something else to consider....  the drain valves on these things are atrocious...  I bought mine (80 gallon electric) and before installing it, immediately pulled the drain valve OUT and replaced it with a 3/4" nipple with a 3/4" gate valve.  Now, I have a straight 3/4" shot into the tank for the drain instead of the lousy little dribble dribble drain.  (took me HOURS to drain my last tank because of the buildup of calcium acting like a big plug, slowing down the flow)

 

 

Next  time use a ball valve.  They seal better and are less likely to leak at the handle.   They flow better as well.

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perhaps I used wrong name...

 

I was going to use the valve (ball) with the lever...  and realized for the location of the heater, it's in a high traffic area and could easily get bumped/kicked and the lever moved without realizing it, causing a leak.

 

That wasn't an option (though I use that type valve on my supply lines to the outside and elsewhere)

 

So I opted for the other type, with the regular 'knob' you have to rotate BUT, it's a full channel through it, not one of those where it's essentially 50% obstructed by the internal construction.

 

If there's a higher risk of leaking, I'll take that exchange every day as I walk past this unit probably at least six times per day and usually glance at it for leaks (I always glance at anything that can leak, shock, cut or slap...but we'll keep my wife out of the conversation)

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Coytee said:

perhaps I used wrong name...

 

I was going to use the valve (ball) with the lever...  and realized for the location of the heater, it's in a high traffic area and could easily get bumped/kicked and the lever moved without realizing it, causing a leak.

 

That wasn't an option (though I use that type valve on my supply lines to the outside and elsewhere)

 

So I opted for the other type, with the regular 'knob' you have to rotate BUT, it's a full channel through it, not one of those where it's essentially 50% obstructed by the internal construction.

 

If there's a higher risk of leaking, I'll take that exchange every day as I walk past this unit probably at least six times per day and usually glance at it for leaks (I always glance at anything that can leak, shock, cut or slap...but we'll keep my wife out of the conversation)

 

 

https://www.shopcross.com/product/12-x-34-apollo-70-103-hc-ball-valve-hose-cap-and-chain-fpt-x-npsh-bronze-body

HRP_70-104-HC.jpg

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2 hours ago, Coytee said:

perhaps I used wrong name...

 

I was going to use the valve (ball) with the lever...  and realized for the location of the heater, it's in a high traffic area and could easily get bumped/kicked and the lever moved without realizing it, causing a leak.

 

That wasn't an option (though I use that type valve on my supply lines to the outside and elsewhere)

 

So I opted for the other type, with the regular 'knob' you have to rotate BUT, it's a full channel through it, not one of those where it's essentially 50% obstructed by the internal construction.

 

If there's a higher risk of leaking, I'll take that exchange every day as I walk past this unit probably at least six times per day and usually glance at it for leaks (I always glance at anything that can leak, shock, cut or slap...but we'll keep my wife out of the conversation)

 

 

Take the handle off and set it on top of the heater when not in use.

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4 minutes ago, JL Sargent said:

On valves, there is always a compromise. The old gate valves and other metal sealing valves can take high heat when sweating them in. Very easy to cook a ball valve with its teflon/nylon type seal.

 

If you're afraid of melting the seal just use a threaded or compression valve.  The sweat types will take a ton of heat and you can always put a wet rag over the body of the valve to act as a heat sink.  Old gate valves should be disassembled prior to sweating as the rubber washer and the stem packing really don't like heat.

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If the old was sweated in, I just sweat in the new one. The rags do help but small ball valves have a low tolerance for heat. Much lower than a gate valve.  Rubber washer? The gate valves I've worked with were all brass and the cloth like stem packing never a problem. Of course, you won't get that ball valve seal out except with that torch. :)

 

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