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Klipsch R-115SW boomy


MFG

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Hi,

 

I just bought the R-115SW subwoofer and i'ts placed on carpet. I feel the sound is very boomy. The gain control is only at a quarter with a pair of RP-160M bookshelf speakers. My receiver is an older Yamaha RX-V595.

 

What can i do to get more tight bass? Spikes? And if so, which ones? Isolation platform?

 

Can the problem be related to the break-in period? I have had the subwoofer and speakers for about 1 month.

 

Thank you for any help.

 

Best regards,

MFG

 

Edited by MFG
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First of all - welcome.

 

Here are a few things you can try...

1. Did you run YPAO?  While I feel the auto-cal is a load of rubbish...it can help you get a better idea of where to get your settings.  A good starting point.

2. Did you do the subwoofer crawl?  You may need to try multiple locations before you get the best place for the sub.

3. What is the sub's crossover set to?  What is the AVR set to crossover at?  Your issues could simply be due to a bad crossover setting.

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Your receiver is from 1999 before YPAO.  I have a similar model from 2001.  Check the output settings on page 22 of your manual.  If it is just 2-channel (or even a full HT setup), I'd try setting your mains to 'large' and setting bass-out to 'both' (make sure your main level is not -10), and then use the low-pass filter on the SW to blend in with the mains to your liking - start out around 50hz.  Adjust the volume control on your SW accordingly too.  This setup is telling your AVR to send the full-range signal to your RP-160M's (which can play down to about 45hz or so) PLUS send all-bass below 80hz to your SW (which you will blend in using the low-pass knob on the SW to avoid boomy overlap with the mains.)

 

Beyond this, search the internet for a room node/null calculator and input the dimensions of your room.  REW is free software that has a room modeling module, but there are others out there that you can just run from your browser.  You may find that you have a node at something like 30hz and a null at 55hz depending on the dimensions of your room.  Or you can do the subwoofer crawl mentioned above.

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Could be any number of things including those listed above, proper set up and placement can be time consuming but usually worth it. Also, may be a bit of a mis-match of components, with little speakers the bass is usually very tight and fast, with the 6.5" woofers in the 160's you might have been better off with a smaller sub like the 10" or 12" version especially if used strictly for music. 

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Thank you all so much for the helpful replies.

 

  • I have tried to set the phase to 180 according to willands suggestion, it seems to help a bit, but it's hard to tell, I will try to have it at 180 for a while.
  • I have set the crossover to 90hz on the subwoofer itself, because setting it on the receiver didnt work. I will try other locations.
  • Should I think about upgrading the old Yamaha RX-V595 receiver? And what price range should the new receiver be at? Im hoping around $800 :)
  • @pbphoto: Thanks for the help. I will try your suggestions and report back on the result.

 

Btw, the speakers and woofer are fantastic, well done Klipsch!

Edited by MFG
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The advice above is all good.

 

My best guess is its positional.  We tend to put a sub in corners or against walls as it looks good there.

 

To test the theory its positional move the sub to the middle of the room where you have the least pressure.  See if its less boomy and if so you know its a positional issue.

 

Most likely you need to simply move it out from the wall (s).   Walls can be a huge help in calibration but if not calibrated the low end is boosted and boomy near a wall or corner.  

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4 hours ago, MFG said:
  • Should I think about upgrading the old Yamaha RX-V595 receiver? And what price range should the new receiver be at? Im hoping around $800 :)

If there's one thing we're good at - it's spending money.

 

A new AVR may help with sound formats and enabling you to get some of the newer bells and whistles...at that price range you can probably get something pretty decent.  But don't upgrade unless you actually have a need or a want to upgrade the AVR.  Newer doesn't necessarily mean better.

 

Here's the Yamaha RX-A1060

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrxa1060bl/yamaha-rx-a1060-7.2-ch-x-110-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html

 

It has Atmos, X, and 4K support built in with a respectable power supply.  You can also utilize the YPAO feature for room correction.

It'll come to you $100 under your pricepoint.

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8 hours ago, MFG said:

I have tried to set the phase to 180 according to willands suggestion, it seems to help a bit, but it's hard to tell, I will try to have it at 180 for a while.

I was very surprised that this sounded better in my room than set at 0 degrees.

 

8 hours ago, MFG said:

I have set the crossover to 90hz on the subwoofer itself, because setting it on the receiver didnt work.

Let me suggest 50Hz, 60Hz, or 70Hz.  Try them all.

 

Bill

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Ported subwoofer boxes are usually perceived as boomy.  Personally I think that usually suits movie soundtracks well.  Tight accurate bass response is usually a characteristic of sealed subwoofer enclosures.  Passive radiator boxes are kind of a mix. Generally my friends that want to hear an accurate reproduction of instrumental content such as jazz, orchestral, big band, opera, tend to favor sealed subwoofers.  

Edited by MY99 2.5GT
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That's just how these are really.  Boomy isn't totally accurate the way it's normally used though.  Usually a boomy sub is considered a one note wonder and has a big peak around 50-55 hz like a lot of the cheap $180 subs do.  These aren't really like that but what happens is that when you spank them, they have coloration and possible ringing up high like above 80 hz, possibly as high as 120 hz.  If that's what you're noticing then I can only agree with you, it's not some of the things you're trying.  About the only thing you can do is keep the crossover point low.  They are great for home theater but aren't my favorite for music because of this.  

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