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Tizman

Adjusting AA crossover to reduce squaker volume

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Hi All.  Is there any consensus on the best way to modify an AA crossover in a La Scala to bring down the squawker levels?  I would like to add a switch to the crossover to flip between the stock AA configuration and a modified version that drops the squawker down by utilizing the existing T2A transformer.  I would prefer to keep the existing crossovers as they are and create a little supplemental crossover with the switch and any other required components separate from it.  I understand that the T2A is limited to 3 DB increments.  Any advice would be much appreciated.    

Edited by Tizman

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Crossovers are only original if not modified. Once caps are replaced one cannot claim they are stock and origin to the speaker.
I would contact Mr Crites to see if he could perhaps build what you are looking for.

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Good morning Tiz!

 

I see you took the leap to LaScalas! Congratulations.

 

Don’t you wish you had done that sooner too?!

 

Now, what to do with all those other non-LaScala speakers? Lol.

 

Looking forward to seeing the responses for this post.

 

Mine have the AL-3 crossover and sound very balanced to my ears.

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Just move the midrange wire on the T2A from 4 to 3 and change the 13uf cap to a 6.8uf.

 

Another way: move the wire from 4 to 3, and then put a 15 ohm/20 watt resistor in parallel with the driver. Just slide the leads under the screws for negative and positive. This method allows for retaining the 13uF capacitor.

 

(the above via DeanG, and others)

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For what you are wanting, an adjustable 16 ohm L-pad would be soooo much easier.

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" Once caps are replaced one cannot claim they are stock and origin to the speaker. :

 

So once I replace the wiper blades (or any part in my car), it's no longer original (and somehow worth less)?

 

Prior to 1971 PWK used whatever cheap surplus oil caps he could get his hands on. After that stock was exhausted he went to some cheap Mylar caps. Those were so dreadful he had new oil caps made. Later he moved back to Mylar.

 

So what is 'stock'?

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"Just move the midrange wire on the T2A from 4 to 3 and change the 13uf cap to a 6.8uf.

 

Another way: move the wire from 4 to 3, and then put a 15 ohm/20 watt resistor in parallel with the driver. Just slide the leads under the screws for negative and positive. This method allows for retaining the 13uF capacitor."

 

Try this first, if it's too much attenuation, then buy an aftermarket autoformer from Bob Crites (or try the 16Ω L-pad idea).

 

A simple switch can switch could be used to go between taps #3, and #4 and lift the resistor (in-or-out).

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I changed wiper blades once and they started making an awful noise.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

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Often when these speakers are sold the buyer likes to see all original parts.

I have changed the crossovers and other parts on all my heritage speakers and those parts are the shelf just in case I sell the speakers they can be restored to the way they left the factory.

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6 minutes ago, Skelt said:

Often when these speakers are sold the buyer likes to see all original parts.

I have changed the crossovers and other parts on all my heritage speakers and those parts are the shelf just in case I sell the speakers they can be restored to the way they left the factory.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk
 

Glad you told us, thanks.

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15 hours ago, Skelt said:

Crossovers are only original if not modified. Once caps are replaced one cannot claim they are stock and origin to the speaker.
 

 

That's funny. So do you have 40 year old receivers running stock caps too?

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A pair of rotel rx-402s. One in the garage for fm. Another in the house.


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So you have a 41 year old receiver running original caps, etc., and expecting it to sound like it did in 1976?  Have you ever adjusted the bias or had it checked out?  What about tuner alignment, if you listen to radio.  Rotel isn't any different than any other receiver or amp that's 40+ year old.  They all are using basic technology and parts that were "on the shelf" from the lowest cost supplier.  Caps have come a long way in 40+ years.  Just my $.02.

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As a preamp with a tuner I like it much better than my adcom gtp 550 which was purchased new in the mid 90s.

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19 hours ago, djk said:

Prior to 1971 PWK used whatever cheap surplus oil caps he could get his hands on. After that stock was exhausted he went to some cheap Mylar caps. Those were so dreadful he had new oil caps made. Later he moved back to Mylar.

 

So what is 'stock'?

 

And moreover, who really cares? 

 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
19 hours ago, djk said:

So what is 'stock'?

 

And moreover, who really cares? 

I know I'm thread crapping, but...

 

I think a lot of people want OEM when buying vintage speakers.  On this board we refer to those stock speakers, both cab and components as "unmolested."  

 

OTOH there are those who want their vintage speakers brought back to factory values, and in some cases upgraded due to known sound characteristics updated in later models.  These are called "modded" and "value added."

 

There is more than one kind of buyer of vintage Klipsch.  What a certain speaker is worth depends on what the buyer deems important.  Both kinds of people are OK.

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