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What Tweeter Component of Xover Goes Bad?


LalaWoots

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I have a set of Klipsch Heresy 1 HIPs. I noticed one speaker sounded muted and not clear and traced it back to the tweeter. The tweeter tested good so I switched the crossovers and that corrected the issue.

 

What component of the crossover would cause this? The tweeter still emits sound but around 90-95% less when connected to the bad crossover, it is hardly audible when placing my ear next to it.

 

Any help will be greatly appreciated, I had restored the cabinet and cleaned all the speakers and now this happens. Thanks!

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Thank you for the responses and you already know the crossovers are the HIE with the two small and one large cap along with the diode for protection (searched and learned that :D). 

 

I would just like to fix the probable component for now and later save for the full recap after I learn to do it myself. Could it be the diode or more likely all the caps? I want to stay with the original square cap look and quality replacements with the mounting tab at the bottom.

 

 

 

 

IMG_6064.JPG

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First... loosen each terminal block screw and retighten. Then try the crossover again. If you still have no high end on the crossover, just replace the caps and get it over with. It will be hard to find the same 'style' of those square caps. Different folks on here will tell you various brands to use, from low to high prices. Pick your budget and swap them out. Just do one crossover at a time and compare the difference.

 

Bruce

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There's something about those inductors (Phillips head screw).  This isn't related to the tweeter problem, but I think those metal screws are not ideal and need to be replaced with a brass screw.  Does anybody else remember this tip?

+++

 

@LalaWoots I would recommend you go ahead and replace all the caps with a modern version so they will all match.  It would be like re-painting a red hood on a 20 year-old car.  The other red paint will be faded and in the same way you could not match the fresh red color, you will not be able to match the audio color of the old caps to the single new one.

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13 hours ago, LalaWoots said:

I would just like to fix the probable component for now and later save for the full recap after I learn to do it myself. Could it be the diode or more likely all the caps? I want to stay with the original square cap look and quality replacements with the mounting tab at the bottom.

 

Disconnect (de-solder) one side of the Zenner diodes, then test for continuity across the pair. There should be none, or at least a very high resistance present. Likely, a previous user fried one and it's dumping current where it shouldn't. Also, check each spade connector along the barrier strip and look to see if any happen to be touching the bus wire that passes underneath them.

 

Caps could be suspect, sure, but are rated much higher than the tweeter VC and the Zenner shunt. Seeing that you already isolated the crossover, I'd be looking at the Zenners next.

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I agree with @Quiet_Hollow regarding the Zener diode.  It’s identified as “1N3996” in the schematic above.  To test, you might temporarily eliminate it from the circuit to see if the problem disappears.  I also agree with the recommendations to recheck each barrier strip connection first.  If the easy stuff doesn’t work, then resort to a Zenerectomy.

 

In the photos above, the Zeners are mounted to the sheet metal L-brackets near the centers.  Temporarily disconnect either wire (red in the photos) to see if that helps.  You don’t really need the Zeners unless you're using megawatts to try to fill a gymnasium.

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9 hours ago, DizRotus said:

then resort to a Zenerectomy

 

Imagine how much stress JC could cause for a patient if he gave a couple "hmmm....  Ahhhhhhhh's" and then told his patient, "Yes sir, I'm afraid you are going to need a full Zenerectomy"

 

yikes

 

 

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On 11/19/2017 at 11:02 AM, LalaWoots said:

I want to stay with the original square cap look and quality replacements with the mounting tab at the bottom.

 

Good luck with that quest.  I wouldn't bother, but let us know if you find functional and cosmetic equivalent replacements.

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16 minutes ago, Coytee said:

 

Imagine how much stress JC could cause for a patient if he gave a couple "hmmm....  Ahhhhhhhh's" and then told his patient, "Yes sir, I'm afraid you are going to need a full Zenerectomy"

 

yikes

 

 

 

Fortunately, urologists are rarely sued after failed Zenerectomies; they never stand up in court.

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Yes, unbolt one diode and recheck.  If it works with one diode unbolted, you have a bad zener.  If a zener diode is bad, test and replace the bad one(s) for pro-audio use.  Disconnect and enjoy for home use.  

Swapping the crossovers likely solved any corrosion issue at the terminal strip. 

If your zeners are good, replace the caps.  Replace all of them since they are all the same age and condition.  I like film and foil caps best, like Misicaps or Daytons, but Solen metalized film caps have worked well for me, too. 

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