Marvel Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 11 hours ago, JohnA said: Swapping the crossovers likely solved any corrosion issue at the terminal strip. Only on the speaker side, not the crossover component side. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 On 11/21/2017 at 9:23 AM, JohnA said: I like film and foil caps best, like Misicaps or Daytons, but Solen metalized film caps have worked well for me, too. Add to that Erse. Never used Misicaps but I have used the other three on probably 12 sets of crossovers now and every time was a noticeable to very noticeable improvement and they don't break the bank like fru fru fancy caps do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Dayton sells small value film and foil for bypass use, but anything above .47mfd is metallized. Musicaps, AudioCap Theta, and Jupiter - cost more because they are film and foil capacitors, and incorporate superior materials and construction - separate film and metal layers, soldered leads, virgin film (as opposed to recycled), etc. Paper and oils cost more because they require manual labor. ESR is higher than film types, but the sound is very good - certainly better than inexpensive metallized types. People who think all of these parts sound the same aren't the critical/discriminating listeners they think they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LalaWoots Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Finally worked on the crossover. I think it has bad zener diodes. I’m new to this and I removed a zener from the good crossover and tested the zener off the bad network.The good zener briefly has continuity then it doesn’t. The one off the bad crossover has constant continuity (both). Where can a find an identical set? I’ve looked online and found similar zener diodes but not an exact. Thanks!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 The zener is not really required. It is there to provide some protection for the tweeter. The older designs did not even bother with them. Since the tweeter already has a 2nd order filter on it, you can eliminate the zener. However, do not do this if you are going to send huge (insane) amounts of power to your speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 9 hours ago, PrestonTom said: The zener is not really required. It is there to provide some protection for the tweeter. The older designs did not even bother with them. Since the tweeter already has a 2nd order filter on it, you can eliminate the zener. However, do not do this if you are going to send huge (insane) amounts of power to your speaker. I agree completely. The tweeters should survive normal home use without protection. In the mid-70s, I fed 300 watts/channel ( an insane amount) of solid state Dynaco power into 4 Speakerlab SKhorns without a Zener in sight. The good news is that insane volumes filling gymnasiums rarely blew the T-35 voice coils. The bad news is that several times I fried a T-35. The further good news is that a phone call to EV had a replacement diaphragm in the mail with an invoice for less than $20. Never missed a weekend gig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LalaWoots Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Thank you for the feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Do you know that your K-77s are the same things as T-35s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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