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Blown Tweeter.....


SWL
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Well, I've blown a lot of woofers in my day but never a tweeter.

 

When I was cranking it, I heard a noise from the left speaker. Now, there is no sound coming out of the tweeter at all.

 

What's my next move? Does the diaphragm just go when it's being stressed? Does the driver just die?

 

Please help..... I need to get this fixed pronto.

 

Thanks!

 

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5 hours ago, SWL said:

 

 

Well, I've blown a lot of woofers in my day but never a tweeter.

 

 

I agree with @Ljk

 

FWIW, my experience is exactly the opposite.  I frequently blew T35s in the 70s in my mobile DJ biz, but never a woofer.  In those days, a phone call to EV in Buchanan, MI would get a replacement diaphragm and invoice (less than $20) in the mail.  Those days are gone forever.  :(

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1 hour ago, djk said:

"Why not install a fuse in the tweeter leads while you're at it? "

 

Try a #211-2 automotive dome lamp.

 

How does the auto lamp work?  In series with the positive wire or negative? 

 

Does it have any other effects (I'm sure it adds a little resistance, which might be a good thing).  If a spike comes along does it just light up?  If the bulb does not blow and offers the same protection, it is a better solution than the fuse. 

 

Can any other bulbs be used.  I might have several in my garage from an old hobby.  --> I just checked, I have several Sylvania 1895 bulbs. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-1895-Miniature-Contains-Bulbs/dp/B00318NU0A

 

 

I built ALK Type A's years a go and used the fuses he recommended.  Forget which one it was but have it in my server.  My preamp (peach at the time) had an issue with the volume pot and blew the fuse, saved the tweeter. 

 

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"Why not install a fuse in the tweeter leads while you're at it? "

 

Try a #211-2 automotive dome lamp.

This sounds interesting. I have two systems in my house and this system is in my unfinished basement/workout room where high volumes serve as motivation.

 

I got really motivated the other day.....then this happened.

 

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It was funny.... I was just cranking the piss out of Pantera.....(unfinished basement, concrete, ductwork etc.)......and there was a pause in the song. I heard this noise like there was a truck or a motorcycle or something loud in my driveway. So I pause the music and hear the ductwork continue to rattle, vibrate and just flat out making a lot of noise for what seemed like 2-3 seconds after the music stopped. It was pretty cool. Do I know how to party or what? LOL

Then, I kept rockin hard. Volume knob never goes much past 1:00. Until that day. I slightly turned the knob a little past 2:00 and that was all she wrote.


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" Why not use a polyfuse ? "

 

Too slow.

 

A 561 or 211-2 is about right.

 

It will have less insertion loss than a Polyswitch, and after a few 10's of milliseconds of overload it will heat up and attenuate the signal in a smooth fashion (instead of cutting out like a Polyswitch).

 

" In series with the positive wire or negative? "

 

Either, makes no difference.

 

Klipsch used to use a 0.9A Polyswitch in the KG4 and I had to replace tons of diaphragms when high-school students played their 50W NAD amps at too-damm-loud volume levels.

 

Installed lamp, end of problem. It also made them sound much smoother when the amps got harsh during clipping.

 

I even had students wanting the lamps when they had never blown a tweeter. The KG//2 products originally had clear cones and the lamp would light up the cones when you played them too loud.

 

I originally noticed the 561in the Boston Acoustics C700 loudspeakers, the 211-2 is easier to solder to (its a 561 with tinned end caps). I've seen these in just about everything in the decades since.

 

EV had a tweeter protector for the T35/K77 product that was based on a relay, it would cut-out like a Polyswitch, but was much faster. Then later on they had a bulletin showing how to add a lamp in parallel with the relay to make things work smoother.

 

I've been thinking about duplicating the later EV version with the lamp (for the purest that wants the lamp out-of-circuit completely at low volume levels).

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