justinICT Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Hello all, First post here. Im hoping I can get some helpful advice and feedback. I have a set of KG4s sitting around. Cabinets are not the best of shape, and Id like to make a project out of them. What I want to do is make the cabinet taller, more narrow and deeper. Id also like to move the radiator from the back to the side. As long as the volume of the cabinet stays the same would this all work out. Moving the radiator to the side, would this impact performance of the speaker? I was also going to go with the Crites crossover and tweeter upgrade too. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlthess40 Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 I think moving it the side would have a negative impact. But you never know until you try.I would like to see how it works out. I have a set but are in near mint shape and I can just make a cab like you and can keep my good ones just encase I don’t like the outcome I can just change them backDo you have any audio testing gear to do before and after measurements to see what’s going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 As long as the internal volume of the cabinet was the same it should be fine. The side mounted passive could potentially make the speaker placement a little trickier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 I would think that if you put the passives on opposite sides making a left and right speaker and were able to position the speakers fairly close to the side walls so that the passives are firing into the walls you may not lose any or too much bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinICT Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 what does the radiator actually do for the speaker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 18 minutes ago, justinICT said: what does the radiator actually do for the speaker? It's a port Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANT Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 If you are building a new box you should try to pick up a pair K90 or K100 tweeters out of the CF-1 or KLF-10 respectively. If you can get them cheap enough they have a way better horn. Obviously switching to a Ti diaphragm is always suggested though some still prefer the original phenolic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teaman Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 If you look at my profile picture I built towers and a center out of KG-4's with beat up cabinets. I used 3/4 MDF in 12 x 48 lengths, removed the passives entirely (which were ripped) I now have them in the garage set up but they worked well this way paired with a sub. The KG-4 don't really dig too deep anyways but the clarity and detail is fantastic so I wanted to incorporate the tweeters closer to ear level with the horn on top and two woofers underneath it. For the center channel I built them in the same size cabinets but in a horizontal layout with the horn between the two woofers. They sounded fantastic set up like that. Due to the larger cabinets, and now being a sealed cabinet instead of ported (radiator) they actually produced very well rounded sound. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANT Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 Pretty sure they made a Tangent that used the same tweeter and drivers but had ports instead of the passive radiator... can't remember the model though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.4 Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 How bad are they? I had a pair that looked rough. All components and motorboard were perfect. I covered the outside of the cabs with 1/2” mdf and re veneered with cherry. They look and sound brand new, and unique. Personally I would keep them kg4s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinICT Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 7 minutes ago, No.4 said: How bad are they? I had a pair that looked rough. All components and motorboard were perfect. I covered the outside of the cabs with 1/2” mdf and re veneered with cherry. They look and sound brand new, and unique. Personally I would keep them kg4s Im not a fan of the original look of the speakers. Or I would just veneer them. I thought I would take the opportunity to try something different with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.4 Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 3 minutes ago, justinICT said: Im not a fan of the original look of the speakers. Or I would just veneer them. I thought I would take the opportunity to try something different with them. Truthfully I am not a fan of the original either. They look more like heresies now. I will try to resize a pic so you will get the idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.4 Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 The speaker overhangs the base like a heresy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinICT Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 On 1/21/2018 at 1:03 PM, CANT said: If you are building a new box you should try to pick up a pair K90 or K100 tweeters out of the CF-1 or KLF-10 respectively. If you can get them cheap enough they have a way better horn. Obviously switching to a Ti diaphragm is always suggested though some still prefer the original phenolic. would that require a change in the crossover design changing to the K90 or K100? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANT Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 3 hours ago, justinICT said: would that require a change in the crossover design changing to the K90 or K100? If you reused the original K74 magnet then no, nothing should need to be done at all. If you switched to the K100 magnet you might want to pad it down with a resistor as it is a bit large and has a slightly higher output, though you could just as easily like the extra output. The K90 is slightly smaller so it has just a hair less output so you would have to want that outcome. I know I tried both back in the day but can't remember which I preferred... I do know my original K74 magnets are sitting in a box in my garage so I preferred one of them. Basically, the K90 is the same magnet as the K76 found in the Heresy II, Quartets and a few other KG's... the K100 is the same magnet as the K79 from the Corwall II, Forte's, Chorus' and KLF's. The K79 magnet is also used in the K107Ti found in the HIII/CWIII and the somewhat confusingly named K100Ti/K79T found in the Forte III. I should also point out that if I remember correctly the suffix for the K90 is KV so it would be Video-shielded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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