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DISCO-INFERNO-70

Ultimate KLF30 upgrades

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Well, reading the comments from  DISCO-INERNO-70, SWL,and Alexander in several threads, I think I'm ready to upgrade my KLF-30's.

 

Thank you, gentlemen.

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On ‎12‎/‎30‎/‎2018 at 9:37 PM, P51guy said:

Well, reading the comments from  DISCO-INERNO-70, SWL,and Alexander in several threads, I think I'm ready to upgrade my KLF-30's.

 

Thank you, gentlemen.

 

Anything new on the update front?

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On 1/6/2019 at 1:25 PM, Alexander said:

 

Anything new on the update front?

Not as yet. My HOA sent me a letter informing me that I needed to be in compliance with their "guidelines" or face a big fine. So, $1K later, I'm now in compliance. I'm going to wait on a tax refund and then proceed with the upgrades to the speakers. One question I have is how did you fasten the front-rear bracing to the cabinet?

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3 hours ago, P51guy said:

Not as yet. My HOA sent me a letter informing me that I needed to be in compliance with their "guidelines" or face a big fine. So, $1K later, I'm now in compliance. I'm going to wait on a tax refund and then proceed with the upgrades to the speakers. One question I have is how did you fasten the front-rear bracing to the cabinet?

I can relate with the HOA, this year the "dues" was upped from $600 to $1200. They claim this is a one time shot but I am not counting on it :\  As for the braces, I used the same adhesive that was used to seal the cabinet, in my case it was Gorilla construction adhesive , first choice was Loctite PL 3x Premium  (iirc) but wasn't available in my area. Be sure to leave a bit of space on the brace(s) to allow the goo to also have hold on the ends of the brace "sticks" and not just the perimeter.

 

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1 hour ago, Alexander said:

Be sure to leave a bit of space on the brace(s) to allow the goo to also have hold on the ends of the brace "sticks" and not just the perimeter.

 

Ok, thanks for your help!

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On 1/27/2018 at 2:01 PM, Maximus89 said:

@SWL Now that you've reached the ultimate sound for the KLF-30, you need to doll them up!

This is the prettiest pair ive ever seen. I think it was from a forum member:
 

post-51804-0-96080000-1448299034.jpg

 

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On 1/21/2018 at 12:52 AM, SWL said:

Thanks for posting this. I'm very interested in these woofers.

I have two pair of 30's and just completed all of the upgrades you stated above. These DO NOT sound like stock KLF-30'S. Your description on sound quality mirrors mine.

In addition to all these upgrades, another thing I did that was HUGE in improving their performance was sealing the cabs with PL Premium X3 and adding front to back bracing.

I fixed two of the speakers that were obviously coming apart......but after that even though everything seemed fine, I fixed the other two that didn't seem to have any problems anyway and that's when my jaw dropped.

I have the stock K-31 woofers and when I lay into these babies it's like someone is pounding on the floor with a sledgehammer.

Thanks for posting this and I would seriously think about reinforcing your cabs if you haven't already.....even if they seem fine. I know I'm glad I did. Moray James here has been preaching this for years and I finally took his advice. Thanks MJ!


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SWL can you detail the front to back bracing you referred to?

 

 

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SWL can you detail the front to back bracing you referred to?
 
 
Post #55 of this thread explains what I did as well as a pic of the top braces. I did the same thing on the bottom brace for a total of 4 front to back braces.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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Oh that was the bottom brace. I did the same thing to the top brace as well.

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On 1/26/2018 at 4:38 PM, SWL said:

 

1. Titanium tweeter diaphragms
2. A-55-G midrange drivers
3. Crites crossovers with new internal wiring
4. Ciare 12" woofers
5. Sealed cabs with PL Premium X3
6. Added front to back bracing (minimal)
7. Swapped the stock metal jumpers with 10 guage Mogami jumpers. This one surprised me.


What the source of the 10 guage Mogami jumpers?

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What the source of the 10 guage Mogami jumpers?
I got mine on eBay.

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These are the ones I have but I don't see them on Ebay right now. 432b379f0160936df4a02543a0285e34.jpg

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So sorry SWL, but how do I search for Post #55 ?
Start with the first post of this thread and scroll down to the 55th post. They should be numbered.

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Eh.........I always kinda disliked plastic woofers.......Why couldn't Klipsch just use a ribbed/fiber paper cone ?? I suppose I'm gonna have to look inside and see if there is added bracing. All is solid now but I guess klf cabinets are a time bomb ??? I'm prolly gonna do bracing and sealing and have a look. I've had the horns out and puttied em' up some time back, which helped eliminate the (hollow, or echo or whatever) sound I didn't like. The issue there was which wires went where. I always thought that that was a no brainer but somehow Klipsch made that a mystery.Thanks to you all for the info, and taking time to post, very useful. 

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The adhesive issue cannot be laid at the feet of Klipsch they had a custom hot melt adhesive designed and manufactured to bond the Melamine covered baffles to the cabinet carcass (which is not assembled with hot melt). The manufacturer supplied defective adhesive when Klipsch went to production (Klipsch had a big campaign and they replaced most all of the defective loudspeakers). Klipsch took the adhesive manufacturer to court and they won. Units built with the correct hotmelt are fine to this day. If you remove the Melamine where required to make a joint you can reassemble the cabinet with white wood glue and it will be much stronger than new and it will last forever. Fixes are a bad gamble and to me a waste of time. I would mot buy a KLF series cabinet which had been patched up with anything. It then becomes a make work project to remove before you can do a real repair. White wood glue used to bond wood to wood is a structural bond. There is no structural rated adhesive with which to bond Melamine. There are some nasty expensive adhesives which will stick but they are not structural. White wood glue (PVA) is 100 % non toxic and as cheap as it gets. Why would anyone choose to use anything else given the facts?

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2 hours ago, moray james said:

If you remove the Melamine where required to make a joint you can reassemble the cabinet with white wood glue and it will be much stronger than new and it will last forever.

I agree, I would think any one building would know wood glues best to wood. Why would anyone use anything else, indeed ?

 

2 hours ago, moray james said:

The adhesive issue cannot be laid at the feet of Klipsch

 Since mine aren't coming apart I won't debate that. I am gonna have a close look and brace em.

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49 minutes ago, Fish said:

I agree, I would think any one building would know wood glues best to wood. Why would anyone use anything else, indeed ?

 

 Since mine aren't coming apart I won't debate that. I am gonna have a close look and brace em.

If your baffles are still solid then you have a good set so not to worry. Having bad adhesive really makes doing a retro install of braces so much easier as both front and rear baffles can be easily removed and braces can be installed wood to wood (removing the melamine) with all the room in the world to work. Much better than working through the woofer cutouts.

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I have klf-20s should I change the crossover in them and I need replacement tweeters I'm thinking titanium what do you think

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9 hours ago, Peter Masse said:

I have klf-20s should I change the crossover in them and I need replacement tweeters I'm thinking titanium what do you think

 

Replace xovers?...nah, just re cap them. Unless you like to build your own from scratch like I did on my klf-30's. But that was only because I wanted to do so and not because it was needed. The ti tweets are a very popular upgrade purchased through Bob Crites here https://critesspeakers.com/

 

 

klf30xoside.JPG

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