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Ultimate KLF30 upgrades


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Wow, it's been over two years already since I installed the Ciare woofers in both of my pairs of KLF-30's. They are going strong, sound great and have had zero issues whatsoever.

 

The pair in my main system get babied but the pair in my basement system get driven hard. Driven with a 500 wpc old school Crown K2 just under clipping. They take a lickin and just keep on tickin.

 

I've had no regrets or second thoughts about using these in KLF-30's. They've proven themselves over and over again. Buy and install them with confidence.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

My two pairs is playing as stereo 

two different amps

going to my Preamp Rotel RC1590 one amp is going to ROTEL XLR other is going to RCA 

I’m using vintage harman Kardon Signature 1.5  amps and sometimes HK Citation 7.1

new crossover new titanium diaphragm new A55G and Ciara HW321 woofers 

KLF30 to me is one the bargain speakers in the world I have try them with subs SVS SB4000 pair and AND svs can’t keep up definitely no subs need even with my old original woofers 

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Hello everyone I am a newbie to the community I just picked up a pair of KLF 30s this afternoon from the original owner and I am intrigued by all your upgrades when you say sealing the cabinets do you mean closing off the ports completely to turn it from a vented enclosure to a sealed enclosure. Thanks 

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On 9/12/2020 at 7:27 PM, Scot said:

when you say sealing the cabinets do you mean closing off the ports completely to turn it from a vented enclosure to a sealed enclosure. Thanks 

No-- some years of production on this model they used faulty glue and the front and or back panels of the cabinet can or will eventually rattle loose

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  • 6 months later...

I just acquired a pair of KLF30's.  One woofer has some rattling/static on certain frequencies.  See first 1/2 of the attached video I took.  This is completely absent from my Klipsch Chorus II on a A/B speaker switch (or swapped B/A) so is not a source issue.  Holding my finger to the dustcap where it looks like it might be coming unglued, does not attenuate the rattle, so I don't think that is it.  I'm posting in this thread because I figured many might have a leftover driver from replacing them with the highly lauded HW321 in this thread.

A few questions:

  1. Anyone have any idea what this indicates and can it be fixed?
  2. If someone has one to sell please reach out via a chat as the HW321 is backordered again, and I don't have funds to buy 4 at this time.

Thanks in advance.

 

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  • 1 month later...

just going to chime in and say the HW321 is a fantastic upgrade. Thanks to @Alexander for hooking me up with a set.

 

My girlfriend has been spinning records all afternoon (Dual 701 w/ Shure V15 III > HK 430 > KLF 30s) and it feels like a massive upgrade to me. great dynamic range, more punch, and just all around an improvement.

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These are a great substitute for the originals. I've had them for over three years now and they put a smile on my face every time I crank it up.....and lemme tell ya, I CRANK it up.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

The back is loose on one of mine, the one with the broken horn body in the other thread.

What's the method to remove the back (and front) without damage? The front is not loose yet.

 

Doing a quick A/B to compare the Chorus II bought a few weeks ago, I liked the KLF-30, but was just profiling one song; The Screamin' Cheetah Wheelies Shakin' the Blues, which has well mixed, well defined drums and an articulate, technical drummer.

Edited by tickertape
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21 hours ago, tickertape said:

The back is loose on one of mine, the one with the broken horn body in the other thread.

What's the method to remove the back (and front) without damage? The front is not loose yet.

 

Doing a quick A/B to compare the Chorus II bought a few weeks ago, I liked the KLF-30, but was just profiling one song; The Screamin' Cheetah Wheelies Shakin' the Blues, which has well mixed, well defined drums and an articulate, technical drummer.

Use a heat gun to loosen up the areas where the glue is still holding well, while gently prying the back panel off. Scrape the old glue off as much as possible on the panel and the inside of the cabinet where they meet. Check the front panel as well, it's not uncommon these both need to be done. When it's all set, use liquid nail for adhesive. Put a bead of liquid nail on the inside of the cabinet where the panel meets. I liked to go in the inside of the cabinet and run my finger on the squeeze out to make a nice seal. Clamp the panel down for 24-48 hours. Liquid nail takes 7 days too fully cure.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Danny Richie did an upgrade on some Forte IIIs, and his recommendation was to use angle braces, 1”x 1” cut at 45 degrees, 6 to 8 inches at the long side and fit these all over the inside corners.  The logic was something about the vibrations being clamped 1/4 the width of the box so these would work well, and they would be easy to work around when adding No-Rez or Dynamat, which he also recommended.  You can see the video on Youtube, search for GR Research Forte Upgrade.  

 

Edited by alanhuth
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Klipsch did have some for sale a few months ago.  

part number 1067961. If you wish to order, you can contact us at 800-554-7724, Option 1, between 9A.M.-4P.M. (EST) Monday-Friday. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, new here. I bought a used pair of KLF-30's recently. The tweeters were not functioning so I bought the Bob Crites crossovers thinking that those might be the issue. Unfortunately, after installing the new crossovers the tweeters still do not function. I'm now searching for a pair of K-79-K tweeters. Any help is greatly appreciated. And thank you for this thread. I've already learned so much about the KLF-30's!!!

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I think most people, as a minimum, update the tweeters to titanium diaphragms (Crites) for less than $50 including shipping.  If the current diaphragms have a problem, maybe that's all you need.  If you already replaced the crossover, then you know the wiring to the tweeters is good (do you?).  Maybe somebody here can tell you how to test if the diaphragm is the problem.  I don't know how to do that, but, unless somebody tells you how to do it, I would just take a tweeter apart and look at it. If something's wrong, you might be able to see it.  Some of them have ferro-fluid in them that might get where it doesn't belong.  There are some very tiny wires that might be damaged.  Crites has instructions on his website for replacing the diaphragm.  By following that as you take it apart, you should avoid doing more damage.  

 

https://critesspeakers.com/replacing_the_diaphragm_on_.html

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