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I'm a Believer! (another cable story)


kevinmi

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Plenty ole witchcraft & Voodoo in the cable business ...

 

Painfull Reality  AKA JFLessard shared his cabling craft with me years back and I've made my own ever since ...

 

Canar G-6 guitar cable is 128 strand oxygen free copper , buy it in bulk at your local music store and strip out the interior , you can leave the shielding on or remove it depending on the RF interference in the area you reside . I terminate mine with cardas ends as in the pic , but you can use what you want .

 

I've got NBS Dragon flys and expensive cardas cable that you can't tell any difference in sound quality to my homemade stuff and at a 1/10 the price point .

 

Not only that , but you can make your lengths whatever you want , I always find store bought is too short or too long ... problem solved .

 

 

custom 002.jpg

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OK; I'm the idiot that (temporarily) used oxidized ( slightly GREEN) speaker wire. Checked closer and it was really bad :( Replaced the wire and now were back to normal. :) 

Next the question arises re connectors. On screw type connectors I use either banana plugs or the wire itself - don't think there is a difference. On older vintage equipment (spring type) I normally just use the wire itself ... but for ease of switching, there are "pin type" connectors. But ... the pin type connector only barely "connects" to the spring clip (versus the bare wire which gets "crunched" by the spring clip making for a better connection - ???). Am I crazy or ? Appreciate your comments. 

Cheers, Emile

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On 1/29/2018 at 7:42 AM, Deang said:

anyone else read thru that paper? wanna talk about whats wrong or misleading in it? Nothing new. Speaker wire LCR measurements and plots have been done before.

 

 

Note that  it is about speaker cables, not  RCA coaxial interconnects that carry very little current that the OP raves about.  Another problem is there are no  units on the Y axis on most plots nor give details of the 12 gauge they are comparing too.   Very few actual numbers of L or R or C of the wires to compare to the L and C of the speakers.. How does a few uH of cable inductance affect sound when the  VC or crossover inductance is 1000x larger?   Also no mention of increased speaker impedance vs frequency compared to the increased impedance of the cable.  Sure the skin effect and bunching at HF but also much lower current too.   Also note that wavelength of 20Khz is close to 15Km. This is so huge that speaker cable can be considered lumped element. You do not have to consider reflections and impedance matching of the wires until the length of the transmission line becomes a larger fraction of the signal wavelength.  BTW past career I did electromagnetic simulations of transmission lines GHz interconnects and IC packages. 

 

You all know the PassLaps site at https://www.passlabs.com/press/speaker-cables-science-or-snake-oil   

 

also another critique of the report is here: http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/apcable/apcrit.html

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Again, as with comparing interconnects one could do the same w/ speaker cables:

 

Place your speakers side by side, then have someone connect brand A speaker cable to one channel brand B to the other channel ( without telling you which is which of course ) then have  that person switch between the two speakers using the balance control as you play a MONO recording.

 

I strongly suspect the differences that initially seemed so obvious will disappear. 

 

The biggest con, IMHO, is that of the upgraded power cord.   ..To think that current that travels through hundreds of miles of power line, then hundred yards of so of Romex in one's house, could be improved by changing the last 6 feet of wire that exists b/w an outlet and the component is, to me, ridiculous.  

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11 minutes ago, ODS123 said:

The biggest con, IMHO, is that of the upgraded power cord.   ..To think that current that travels through hundreds of miles of power line, then hundred yards of so of Romex in one's house, could be improved by changing the last 6 feet of wire that exists b/w an outlet and the component is, to me, ridiculous.  

Amen :) 

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"Cables have break in period?"

 

Absolutely.  Forty hours of playing music through them is a common benchmark, i.e., you should hear most of the improvement by that time.  Some cables may take longer.

 

Just moving them around, like coiling and uncoiling, will often cause some temporary increase in irritating sound in cables that are otherwise well broken in, but that goes away in a few hours of playing music.

 

Naysayers abound in this area, as you can see.  It's best to ignore extreme ones and keep an open mind 

 

LC

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6 hours ago, LarryC said:

"Cables have break in period?"

 

Absolutely.

 

Naysayers abound in this area, as you can see.  It's best to ignore extreme ones and keep an open mind 

 

Yes, have an open mind.  But this also means open to the possibility that the difference you are hearing are due to expectation bias.

 

Any person wanting to discover for themselves whether or not there are audible differences b/w speaker cables, interconnects, new cables/broken-in cables, etc. need only follow my simple recommendation:

 

Place your speakers side by side, then have someone connect cable A to one channel cable B to the other channel (without telling you which is which of course) then as you sit back and listen have that person switch between the two speakers using the balance control as you play a MONO recording.

 

I firmly believe the differences that seemed so obvious will disappear.  

 

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I am very surprised a cable thread has not been locked already.  Good going.

 

I like to make all my cables also and whenever it makes sense, use bare wire (speakers) for the connections.  No need to add anything like bananas in the mix unless it is for pure convenience.  I've had too many times where connections were not 100% identical and they presented sound that also was not 100% identical.

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3 minutes ago, mark1101 said:

So what about those little trestles that keep the cables like 6" off the floor over the distance between components?  I bet those help too, right?  :rolleyes:

get some tea cups, juice glasses or coffee mugs and you will know for yourself. I have tried this and yes you can hear what they do. Ceramic or glass will sound better than plastics so far as I know from listening.

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On 2/5/2018 at 5:54 AM, ODS123 said:

lace your speakers side by side, then have someone connect cable A to one channel cable B to the other channel (without telling you which is which of course) then as you sit back and listen have that person switch between the two speakers using the balance control as you play a MONO recording.

 

Could maybe post a picture of 2 modified K-horns weighing in over 200 lbs being moved around and put side by side? I'm having a hard time visualizing this even sounding remotely feasible.

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