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SWL

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jason gave great advice and built u great subs

 

because our ears are less sensitive to bass it makes sense it is calibrated for say 70 db but as you go higher your very good ear quickly hears the bloat where the subs are adding too much.

 

a 4th order hpf at 35 will likely be a good starting point

also i think the dsp offers dynamic eq...where u can have it augment the bass at lower volumes and u can choose how much boost and how quickly it falls off so you wont ever have to adjust it based  on spl...u will have it preprogrammed

 

 

you will learn basic REW in 30minutes.

 

your highly experienced and sensitive ear will have a field day with a mic and rew and dsp

prepare to take swl to an even higher level 😎

 

i would estimate i have put in 200hrs to set calibrate and measure my rooms...its that fun for me 

but i also had a big learning curve and desire to know as much as possible

 

your music will have way more detail imo

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a 4th order hpf at 35 will likely be a good starting point



That's what I had in mind but I don't know what the "4th order" thing is all about. Suppose I'll find out soon enough....


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21 minutes ago, SWL said:


That's what I had in mind but I don't know what the "4th order" thing is all about. Suppose I'll find out soon enough....
 

 

1st order, 6 dB per octave

2nd order, 12 dB per octave

3rd order, 18 dB per octave

4th order, 24 dB per octave

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speaker designers have for a very long time considered how their mains should integrate with subs and the avr manufacturers have also, i believe many are 12db (2nd order) and a few are 18db (3rd).

 

how your tubas will blend is very easily determined with a set of measurements looking at the smoothness through the crossover.  When its perfectly flat you are then able to create any curve you want on the low end with the dsp settings.  which order to use is mainly based on your room and equipment.  How far up past the crossovers the subs will play is very much a factor of that slope....6db per octave is very shallow and will play up a lot higer than a 24db.

 

many subs especially horns have issues crossed up very high or playing up high.  this would make the slope chosen very important at say 80 or 100hz cross...but not down low.  jason can best address the highest crossover/slope options to keep you away from coloring the sound with port resonances or jagged frequency response.

 

im psyched to hear the next level swl!

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16 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said:

speaker designers have for a very long time considered how their mains should integrate with subs and the avr manufacturers have also, i believe many are 12db (2nd order) and a few are 18db (3rd).

 

how your tubas will blend is very easily determined with a set of measurements looking at the smoothness through the crossover.  When its perfectly flat you are then able to create any curve you want on the low end with the dsp settings.  which order to use is mainly based on your room and equipment.  How far up past the crossovers the subs will play is very much a factor of that slope....6db per octave is very shallow and will play up a lot higer than a 24db.

 

many subs especially horns have issues crossed up very high or playing up high.  this would make the slope chosen very important at say 80 or 100hz cross...but not down low.  jason can best address the highest crossover/slope options to keep you away from coloring the sound with port resonances or jagged frequency response.

 

im psyched to hear the next level swl!

 

The minimum slope on a sub crossover i would recommend would be 12 dB per octave, the higher the better in many cases. Don't be surprised if you end up using a 48 dB per octave low pass slope with those Tubas to properly integrate them at a low frequency but we will see how they perform in room.

 

The Tuba series has less issues playing up higher than DR types and very clean & tight i may add up to 200 Hz though one would not want to cross that high with a subwoofer. Port resonance is a non issue as there is none and jagged response would be room related and taken care of with EQ.

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13 hours ago, jason str said:

 

The minimum slope on a sub crossover i would recommend would be 12 dB per octave, the higher the better in many cases. Don't be surprised if you end up using a 48 dB per octave low pass slope with those Tubas to properly integrate them at a low frequency but we will see how they perform in room.

 

 

I have my LSIIs high passed and Tubas low passed all at 55 Hz.  To my ears slopes of 48 dB sounded best, I could see this also in the measurements I did when determining delays.  48 dB provided the smoothest response in the critical crossover region, as @jason str already mentioned.  Speaking of delays: also an important factor to let a sub blend well with your mains.

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Ok, I thought I accomplished something but I still have nothing on my computer screen to do anything with the mini-dsp.

 

I found my way to installation wizard and according to it.....the driver was installed successfully. I actually went through the process.

 

So now, it shows that there is a proper driver installed......where as before it said otherwise.

 

At this point, I have installed the plug-in for the unit. Actually, that was the very first thing I did. There is an icon on my home screen.

 

So I have the plug-in installed, installation wizard tells me the driver was installed successfully, I restarted the computer and windows 10 says updates/changes were made successfully......

 

.....all this success and I can't find anything on my computer to actually do something to my system with the mini-dsp hd.

 

Am I missing something obvious? The support forum for mini-dsp hasn't helped me out yet....at all.

 

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Jason, I remember you telling me that something really had you stumped when you were setting yours up but eventually you figured it out.

Do you remember what it was?

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I mean, if everything is installed properly on my computer shouldn't something pop up when I connect the mini-dsp to my computer?

 

I'm gettin nuthin.....as far as being able to do anything with it for my stereo.

 

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I've been using the RCA inputs/outputs and I get music to pass through the unit. I just tried the Toslink input (using it like a DAC) and get nothing.

I just figured I'd try it. Nothing else is working.

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