jason str Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 You will need to high pass the mains for best performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 jason gave great advice and built u great subs because our ears are less sensitive to bass it makes sense it is calibrated for say 70 db but as you go higher your very good ear quickly hears the bloat where the subs are adding too much. a 4th order hpf at 35 will likely be a good starting point also i think the dsp offers dynamic eq...where u can have it augment the bass at lower volumes and u can choose how much boost and how quickly it falls off so you wont ever have to adjust it based on spl...u will have it preprogrammed you will learn basic REW in 30minutes. your highly experienced and sensitive ear will have a field day with a mic and rew and dsp prepare to take swl to an even higher level 😎 i would estimate i have put in 200hrs to set calibrate and measure my rooms...its that fun for me but i also had a big learning curve and desire to know as much as possible your music will have way more detail imo 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 a 4th order hpf at 35 will likely be a good starting pointThat's what I had in mind but I don't know what the "4th order" thing is all about. Suppose I'll find out soon enough....Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 21 minutes ago, SWL said: That's what I had in mind but I don't know what the "4th order" thing is all about. Suppose I'll find out soon enough.... 1st order, 6 dB per octave 2nd order, 12 dB per octave 3rd order, 18 dB per octave 4th order, 24 dB per octave 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Ah, ok...... it's all coming together now. [emoji16]Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 speaker designers have for a very long time considered how their mains should integrate with subs and the avr manufacturers have also, i believe many are 12db (2nd order) and a few are 18db (3rd). how your tubas will blend is very easily determined with a set of measurements looking at the smoothness through the crossover. When its perfectly flat you are then able to create any curve you want on the low end with the dsp settings. which order to use is mainly based on your room and equipment. How far up past the crossovers the subs will play is very much a factor of that slope....6db per octave is very shallow and will play up a lot higer than a 24db. many subs especially horns have issues crossed up very high or playing up high. this would make the slope chosen very important at say 80 or 100hz cross...but not down low. jason can best address the highest crossover/slope options to keep you away from coloring the sound with port resonances or jagged frequency response. im psyched to hear the next level swl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 16 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said: speaker designers have for a very long time considered how their mains should integrate with subs and the avr manufacturers have also, i believe many are 12db (2nd order) and a few are 18db (3rd). how your tubas will blend is very easily determined with a set of measurements looking at the smoothness through the crossover. When its perfectly flat you are then able to create any curve you want on the low end with the dsp settings. which order to use is mainly based on your room and equipment. How far up past the crossovers the subs will play is very much a factor of that slope....6db per octave is very shallow and will play up a lot higer than a 24db. many subs especially horns have issues crossed up very high or playing up high. this would make the slope chosen very important at say 80 or 100hz cross...but not down low. jason can best address the highest crossover/slope options to keep you away from coloring the sound with port resonances or jagged frequency response. im psyched to hear the next level swl! The minimum slope on a sub crossover i would recommend would be 12 dB per octave, the higher the better in many cases. Don't be surprised if you end up using a 48 dB per octave low pass slope with those Tubas to properly integrate them at a low frequency but we will see how they perform in room. The Tuba series has less issues playing up higher than DR types and very clean & tight i may add up to 200 Hz though one would not want to cross that high with a subwoofer. Port resonance is a non issue as there is none and jagged response would be room related and taken care of with EQ. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wim M Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 13 hours ago, jason str said: The minimum slope on a sub crossover i would recommend would be 12 dB per octave, the higher the better in many cases. Don't be surprised if you end up using a 48 dB per octave low pass slope with those Tubas to properly integrate them at a low frequency but we will see how they perform in room. I have my LSIIs high passed and Tubas low passed all at 55 Hz. To my ears slopes of 48 dB sounded best, I could see this also in the measurements I did when determining delays. 48 dB provided the smoothest response in the critical crossover region, as @jason str already mentioned. Speaking of delays: also an important factor to let a sub blend well with your mains. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 I got the mini-dsp hd today. I'm having trouble installing the driver on my Windows 10 laptop.Any suggestions? Thanks for any help.Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 7, 2018 Author Share Posted February 7, 2018 Jason, I remember you saying that you had trouble with something.....are you on Windows 10? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 No, i have a older windows version. Try installing Adobe air first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Ok, if I have time tonight otherwise I'll try it late tomorrow morning when I get home.Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 If that does not work try going to Windows update for the driver. There is also a help forum if these steps fail for any reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Ok, I thought I accomplished something but I still have nothing on my computer screen to do anything with the mini-dsp. I found my way to installation wizard and according to it.....the driver was installed successfully. I actually went through the process. So now, it shows that there is a proper driver installed......where as before it said otherwise. At this point, I have installed the plug-in for the unit. Actually, that was the very first thing I did. There is an icon on my home screen. So I have the plug-in installed, installation wizard tells me the driver was installed successfully, I restarted the computer and windows 10 says updates/changes were made successfully...... .....all this success and I can't find anything on my computer to actually do something to my system with the mini-dsp hd. Am I missing something obvious? The support forum for mini-dsp hasn't helped me out yet....at all. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Oh, and I installed Adobe air as well.Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 Jason, I remember you telling me that something really had you stumped when you were setting yours up but eventually you figured it out.Do you remember what it was?Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 I mean, if everything is installed properly on my computer shouldn't something pop up when I connect the mini-dsp to my computer? I'm gettin nuthin.....as far as being able to do anything with it for my stereo. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 I've been using the RCA inputs/outputs and I get music to pass through the unit. I just tried the Toslink input (using it like a DAC) and get nothing.I just figured I'd try it. Nothing else is working.Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 8, 2018 Author Share Posted February 8, 2018 I submitted a support ticket but it could take days for them to get back to me.This sucks.Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 My issue was from an unverified digital driver signature, had to hit F8 on startup and disable driver signature support. Start a thread in the software section of the MiniDSP forum, i received help rather quickly there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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