jtubbs6117 Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 I am looking to purchase 2 SI 18 for my office bonus room system. I see and I have done in the past never with home subs but. Do you guys recommend stuffing the boxes with poly fill? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Sealed or ported? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 What polyfill does is dissipate the shockwave behind the cone which is why it makes the driver act like it's in a bigger box than it is in a sealed box. It actually performs relatively poorly in terms of absorbing the back wave. If that's your goal then maybe consider R-19 insulation, it works better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Use open cell foam for ported, polyfil for sealed. The rule of thumb is one pound of polyfil for each cuft of enclosure, so a 4 cuft sealed box would use about 4 pounds of polyfil. I'm sure that's the rule of thumb for speakers, I'm not sure if that is the going formula for subs. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Morning-Glory-Premium-Polyester-Fiberfill-5-lb-Box/19397504 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Sealed 4 cubic ft SI 18's one pair running on inuke 6000 dspSent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 2 hours ago, jtubbs6117 said: Sealed 4 cubic ft SI 18's one pair running on inuke 6000 dsp Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk What does the manufacture recommend volume wise per box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 4 cubic ft each box will have an internal volune of 4 cubic ftSent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 25 minutes ago, jtubbs6117 said: 4 cubic ft each box will have an internal volune of 4 cubic ft Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk It's not really necessary then. Typically polyfill is used when the box is a little too small for the driver. Do a good job of bracing and you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Awesome thanks Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Do you guys have particular fasteners you like to you use ?Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 51 minutes ago, jtubbs6117 said: Do you guys have particular fasteners you like to you use ? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk For what application? Building the box, securing the driver, attaching a grill, bracing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Securing the driverSent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 58 minutes ago, jtubbs6117 said: Securing the driver Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk T nuts. Some call them hurricane nuts. You can find them at hardware stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtubbs6117 Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Thanks Carl I have used these before. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 T-nuts and hurricane nuts are two different things, check on PE to see the difference. I suggest you not only use T-nuts, used the 6-prong ones, not the 4-prong you might get locally.. https://www.parts-express.com/10-32-deluxe-6-prong-t-nuts-50-pcs--081-1088 We have had discussions here before so it is searchable, but I think the size Klipsch uses is #10-32. I like to use black anodized hex-head bolts, but I had to get them on Ebay, bag of 50. Do you know how to install the T-nuts, with a drill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 27 minutes ago, wvu80 said: I suggest you not only use T-nuts, used the 6-prong ones, not the 4-prong you might get locally.. I've never once had an issue with the 4 prong fasteners in countless builds plus I never had to wait to get them in the mail. I suppose that if you're ordering something from PE then have them send some with the rest of your stuff but I wouldn't place an order just for those. You'd pay as much for shipping as you would for the nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 28 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: I've never once had an issue with the 4 prong fasteners in countless builds plus I never had to wait to get them in the mail. I suppose that if you're ordering something from PE then have them send some with the rest of your stuff but I wouldn't place an order just for those. You'd pay as much for shipping as you would for the nuts. I have heard numerous accounts on avsforum.com DIY Speakers and Subs sub-forum from people who have had problems with the 4-prong T-nuts. When they strip out in the back in the sawdust-like MDF, you've got problems. They spin and now they can't be removed without major surgery. I did search for T-nuts from local stores Lowes and Home Depot. The ones I found cost 5 times what the ones on PE cost, so local was a possible but very expensive alternative. Remember, I live in a small town without much choice for things like hardware. You take what they offer. I have to admit, I like overkill. I also like to use heavy-duty hex-head bolts because they look cool. I'm sure you know standard screws are usually enough for a sub project as most people don't take their sub drivers in and out of the enclosure. Most of the serious sub builders on the AVSforums don't even use them. My contention is if you're going to use T-nuts, get the good ones. And the cool bolts as well. Free shipping! https://www.ebay.com/itm/40-pcs-10-32-x-2-Socket-Head-BLACK-Bolts-Screws-HD-Hex-Head-Cap/112276233361?hash=item1a242f5c91:g:zPsAAOSw5cNYgej0:sc:USPSFirstClass!26181!US!-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 54 minutes ago, wvu80 said: When they strip out in the back in the sawdust-like MDF, you've got problems. That's an installer problem not a product problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 3 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: That's an installer problem not a product problem. The problem is no matter which is used when you get close to the edge of the cutout there just isn't much meat for the cleats to grab onto. If one of the 4-cleat version doesn't grip there are only 3 left. If one of the 6-prong doesn't grip there are 5 prongs left. Other tips I've seen including using glue over the t-nut to keep it from spinning. The 1.5" MDF screws are cheaper and work just as well. When talking T-nuts we are discussing degrees of overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 5 minutes ago, wvu80 said: The problem is no matter which is used when you get close to the edge of the cutout there just isn't much meat for the cleats to grab onto. If one of the 4-cleat version doesn't grip there are only 3 left. If one of the 6-prong doesn't grip there are 5 prongs left. I can agree with that. People can run into 2 issues with mdf and t nuts. The first issue is the mdf itself. If you buy good cabinet grade mdf you won't have an issue. If you buy mdf from Lowes or Home depot you're basically getting one step up from particle board. It'll crumble even if you're careful. The second issue is that some people try and use a jig saw to cut holes instead of a jasper jig and a router. They can't cut a perfect circle no matter how hard they try and sometimes the hole gets too close to the fastening area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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