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Duratex or ?


Ljk

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1 hour ago, pzannucci said:

Either or.

Depends how much work you want to put into it and what your resulting finish requirements are.

If you want a smooth finish, go with the epoxy though may take a few coats.  Rough one coat, duratex.

Duratex doesn't have to be rough.  Just use a smooth roller when applying it instead of the texture roller they supply.

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1 hour ago, pzannucci said:

Either or.

Depends how much work you want to put into it and what your resulting finish requirements are.

If you want a smooth finish, go with the epoxy though may take a few coats.  Rough one coat, duratex.

Thanks! Smooth finish is what I'm looking for so I will look into epoxy. I don't mind the extra work.

 

Cecaa850 - We must been typing at the same, which coating would last longer and be easiest to work with? Might come down to cost..

 

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6 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

Duratex doesn't have to be rough.  Just use a smooth roller when applying it instead of the texture roller they supply.

Didn't realize that it would set up smooth.  Excellent info.

 

6 minutes ago, Ljk said:

Thanks! Smooth finish is what I'm looking for so I will look into epoxy. I don't mind the extra work.

 

Looks like folks have been able to accomplish a smooth finish with duratex.  The key on both of these will be the base coat.

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With the use of some crumpled up cellophane or plastic, you can get a leather look to the finish.

 

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/27527-durotex-leather-look

 

I was going to try this technique when I built my F-20 sub but got scared by the size of the cabinet so I ended up using their textured roller for the "normal" look.

I did test the leather technique on a small piece of scrap, and it did give a real leatherette look.

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On 2/21/2018 at 1:36 PM, HPower said:

With the use of some crumpled up cellophane or plastic, you can get a leather look to the finish.

 

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/27527-durotex-leather-look

 

I was going to try this technique when I built my F-20 sub but got scared by the size of the cabinet so I ended up using their textured roller for the "normal" look.

I did test the leather technique on a small piece of scrap, and it did give a real leatherette look.

Interesting but looking for a smooth finish for inside of horn. Might work for outside cabinet will keep it in mind. Picked up a can of appliance paint yesterday and it seems to work well. Did 3 light coats on a piece of plywood and so far seems durable. Took a screw drive and tapped the paint with no chipping. Scratched it with the screw and it did leave a mark but I,don't think paint was completely dry. 

 

Decided to try it on the inside of horn, maybe a few days but I post my findings. 

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On 2/22/2018 at 10:05 AM, moray james said:

use a sealer/primer first after your surface prep.The sealer will stop paint from sucking into the wood. Remember the prep time that you spend will determine the ultimate quality of your finish. Pick a nice color for the inside.

Volvotreter.jpg

Was not going to use a sealer but did not think about the paint sucking into the wood, good point!  I am just going with black since there will be grill on the front of speaker.

 

Sand, sand, sand till I am sick of it then sand once more, got to be the worst but most important part. Good points moray, thanks.

 

Going to get back to it on sunday.

 

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11 hours ago, Ljk said:

Was not going to use a sealer but did not think about the paint sucking into the wood, good point!  I am just going with black since there will be grill on the front of speaker.

 

Sand, sand, sand till I am sick of it then sand once more, got to be the worst but most important part. Good points moray, thanks.

 

Going to get back to it on sunday.

 

Exactly what needs to be done.  It is best to use a wood that will not be so rough after the first coat (raises from absorbing the paint) thus to minimize sanding.  I do love sanding - NOT!!!

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12 hours ago, pzannucci said:

Exactly what needs to be done.  It is best to use a wood that will not be so rough after the first coat (raises from absorbing the paint) thus to minimize sanding.  I do love sanding - NOT!!!

Using a pine plywood, had do a little Bondo work so I am just using .99 cent flat black from home depot to find the  bad area's. (More sanding, yea!) Since I had to do a little Bondo work I am going to use some filler paint before spray the epoxy. As usual this project is getting more complicated the expected.

 

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4 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

Duratex hides a multitude of sins.

Been thinking about duratex but never used it. Does it dry to hard finish the like the do it yourself truck liners? If I used it after Bondo would it work as  a sealer/filler? Wish I could look/buy it a brick and mortar store.

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6 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

It dries to a very durable finish.  I spoke with the people at Duratex regarding covering Bondo.  They said it can go directly over Bondo without primer/sealer.

 

 

Ok thanks, I think I will order some tomorrow. Should  be easier then using filler and then epoxy spray paint, one step solution. 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...
On ‎2‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 9:05 PM, DizRotus said:

It dries to a very durable finish.  I spoke with the people at Duratex regarding covering Bondo.  They said it can go directly over Bondo without primer/sealer.

 

 

I've done that many times with no adverse issues.

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