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Wire upgrde


KROCK

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24 minutes ago, WMcD said:

Back in the day a good amplifier was described "as a wire with gain."  Meaning a wire was of course accurate and the good amp was similarly accurate.

 

Now we read that wires are not accurate and have nuances similar to non accurate amps.

 

So I'll say that all accurate amps sound the same.  All accurate wires sound the same.

 

Is your wire accurate?  How many other wires are accurate?  Smile.

 

WMcD

 

A garrote.

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On 2/25/2018 at 6:25 PM, KROCK said:

Greetings everyone! I've been lurking the forum for years, I finally joined last month. I just purchased 1982 Corwalls. Waiting on Al to build a pair of Universal cross overs, being their 36 years old. I'm going to keep the networks outside the box. I can use some suggestions on what wire & gauge to feed the drivers via 6 gang terminal block (GOLD). My receiver is a Fisher 800 C fully restored.   

Wire from parts connextion should arrive today. 16awg for T & M, 14awg for W.  Copper strand AG plated for external cornwall xovers.

Very nice receiver btw.

 

here 

 

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16 minutes ago, lucky5115 said:

Wire from parts connextion should arrive today. 16awg for T & M, 14awg for W.  Copper strand AG plated for external cornwall xovers.

 

Keep me updated.

Love that Fisher.

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  • 2 weeks later...
4 hours ago, Alexander said:

Another source for a decent wire that is 16 awg and tined twisted pair for 45 cents a foot:      https://meniscusaudio.com/product-category/wire/

Thanks Alex, I wish you would have sent me this earlier. I pulled the trigger on the http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/speaker-wire/karma-ss-speaker-kable/ Thank you.

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8 hours ago, KROCK said:

Thanks Alex, I wish you would have sent me this earlier. I pulled the trigger on the http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/speaker-wire/karma-ss-speaker-kable/ Thank you.

Sorry about that :( Thank you for posting that company early in your post, I will be using that type of wire for my external runs from amp to speaker.

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On ‎2‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 6:41 PM, KROCK said:

Jimbo, waiting for the terminal blocks to arrive, to see how much room I have, to terminate the wires. 

 

Panduit makes forked terminal lugs, crimp type, that will take #10 and #12 gage wire and fit #6 screws on the Jones type blocks used by Klipsch. Other brands may fit the screws and the wire, but the forks are too wide to fit between the barriers.

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On 2/27/2018 at 8:23 PM, KROCK said:

Not looking speaker cable, this is for inside the box. Thanks anyway.

Just curious.  Why would you need the wire from your crossovers to the drivers to be larger than the wire that's in the crossover itself?

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4 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Just curious.  Why would you need the wire from your crossovers to the drivers to be larger than the wire that's in the crossover itself?

You wouldn't want any of those lazy electrons clogging up right at the end :unsure:................... Good question, it's usually the other way around.

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16 minutes ago, dtel said:

You wouldn't want any of those lazy electrons clogging up right at the end :unsure:................... Good question, it's usually the other way around.

It's a legitimate question.  I'm trying to understand the theory behind this all.  On all the crossovers I've messed with, the components are connected with solid wire that's much smaller than 16 or even 18 ga.  You'd think that wire size in the crossover itself would be the limiting factor of what goes to the drivers.   To me, putting oversize wire from the crossover to the drivers would be like putting a fire hose on a hose bib.

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11 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

It's a legitimate question.  I'm trying to understand the theory behind this all.  On all the crossovers I've messed with, the components are connected with solid wire that's much smaller than 16 or even 18 ga.  You'd think that wire size in the crossover itself would be the limiting factor of what goes to the drivers.   To me, putting oversize wire from the crossover to the drivers would be like putting a fire hose on a hose bib.

Wire size causes a voltage drop over a distance.  I wired outdoor lighting a few years ago and even though the lights (LEDs) only pull about 20 watts, I had to use 12 gauge wire because of the distance to the lights.  Once at the lights, the 18 gauge or whatever it was inside of the lights works just fine because it is only traveling about 10".  The wire from the transformer is also only 14 gage or maybe smaller, but the long run needs the large wire .

 

Once at the speakers, the small gauge wire should be just fine inside of the speaker and whatever is used outside of the speaker is most likely overkill anyway. 

 

 

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1 minute ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

but the long run needs the large wire

That, I understand but you're talking maybe 18 inches inside the cabinet and that's after it goes through the tiny wires in the crossover.  Normally (like in your example) you go source, big wire then smaller wire.  In the case of rewiring the drivers in the cabinet you're going source, small wire (in the crossover), big wire (to the drivers).

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IIRC a solid 16 awg will handle more current than a stranded (greater than 7 strands, again IIRC)  of 10 or 12 awg. So that would also apply to the smaller wire sizes in a network component. None the less I still only use tined copper 16 awg to connect all of my drivers to the network.

 

*will update info when ever I find my table

 

update:  16 awg solid/single strand will handle 15a and 7 to 24 strands 12 awg can handle 14a

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19 minutes ago, Alexander said:

IIRC a solid 16 awg will handle more current than a stranded (greater than 7 strands, again IIRC)  of 10 or 12 awg. So that would also apply to the smaller wire sizes in a network component. None the less I still only use tined copper 16 awg to connect all of my drivers to the network.

 

*will update info when ever I find my table

 

update:  16 awg solid/single strand will handle 15a and 7 to 24 strands 12 awg can handle 14a

I didn't realize that, thanks.

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