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KP-250 II crossover schematic


51coronet
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I have KP-250 II , the crossover has a stamp that says KP-2.5D

 

This crossover does not match the schematic posted here on the forums for a KP250.  The caps have different values and its not exactly easy to trace the way things are connected on this style circuit board so I am having difficulty trying to determine if the crossover is even connected the same way with different values.

 

Anyone have a schematic for this version of crossover?  When I got the speakers the tweeters were blown.  I replaced one, hooked it up and there is still a problem, the speaker cuts in and out from a muffled sound to a projected sound intermittently.  There is also a blown/burnt component on the board Labeled CB1 on the board.  Its the smallest component on the board, may be a diode?

 

All 3 drivers now make sound  but its still not correct as per above explanation. 

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Both crossovers are in the same condition visually.  That little component is smoke checked on both. 

 

Did some tracing out of these.  The woofers are completely independent on the crossover using only an inductor and 33 microfarad cap.  They are tied into the + and - on the binding posts which are currently wired in parallel , looks like they left it up to the end user for a bi-amp option of the woofer or all drivers via inputs on the back of the speaker?

 

The tweeter has 2 of the 2.5 microfarad caps in series and an inductor branched off like the schematic on these forums and a 25 w 200 ohm resistor plus a diode.  No idea what the spec is on the diode of my crossover (its blown and black if its even a diode).

 

There are still a 6 micro and 4 micro cap some inductors and transformer that tie into the mids.  This one is a bit tougher to trace out on this board.

 

The plan is now to replace the caps and "diode" provided these are correct values.  The boards haven't been tinkered with from what I can tell.  Just weird the values don't match the schematic on these forums. 

burnt cb1.jpg

 

is that a circuit breaker?  What are the specs?  It obviously didn't stand up to whatever the previous owner did.

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I believe its a poly switch circuit breaker after doing some homework.  Obviously it didn't work to save itself or the tweeters. 

 

What are peoples thoughts of the lamp type fuses?  I ordered some to put in place of these poly switches.  I would rather replace a 2 or 3 dollar part versus $35 per diaphragm. 

The flip side these will mostly be used in home or garage and not get driven hard much.  seldom event use less than 2 per year is a possibility.

 

Also a schematic for these if one is available would be awesome.  These crossovers do not match the first gen kp250 fyi.

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CB1 may stand for circuit breaker 1.  It should be in the tweeter circuit for protection.  I don't think you have a diode anywhere on the board.  

The poly switch should have about a .5 ohm resistance prior to tripping but slightly higher after tripping and resetting.  Make sure that whatever you replace it with reads roughly the same.

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On 3/2/2018 at 6:21 PM, 51coronet said:

Did some tracing out of these.  The woofers are completely independent on the crossover using only an inductor and 33 microfarad cap.  They are tied into the + and - on the binding posts which are currently wired in parallel , looks like they left it up to the end user for a bi-amp option of the woofer or all drivers via inputs on the back of the speaker?

A lot of those were made bi ampable by snipping a wire on the back of the terminal cup.

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Update got these working today after I ordered some replacement caps and those fuse/lamp things.  Very loud speakers and not much in the low end!  the new titanium diaphragms haven't been broken in yet on the tweeters.  So far so good.

 

I replaced all the caps and noticed one of the caps that should have been 4 micro was a 3.....weird.  Bad QC I assume.  I put lamp fuses in to assist in saving tweeters in the future in case a bozo mishandles them.

 

Edit: It was one of the 2.5 micro caps that was a 3 micro.  In fact its the one pictured above.  You can see the 2 caps side by side and one looks out of place.  No idea if that was factory or end user but have them all corrected now.

Edited by 51coronet
corrected info
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12 hours ago, 51coronet said:

Update got these working today after I ordered some replacement caps and those fuse/lamp things.  Very loud speakers and not much in the low end!  the new titanium diaphragms haven't been broken in yet on the tweeters.  So far so good.

 

I replaced all the caps and noticed one of the caps that should have been 4 micro was a 3.....weird.  Bad QC I assume.  I put lamp fuses in to assist in saving tweeters in the future in case a bozo mishandles them.

Couple of 12 to 15 inch subs and your good to go. I use to 2 12 inch energy subs and they blend nice with chorus II. Got one at goodwill for 20 bucks and the other for 50 on cls. For music I like them better than my klipsch sw12,s, for HT the klipsch hit harder. Yes there older but if you find some there cheap and built well.

 

 

 

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