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La Scala Split Project


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@mookiestl, the black lacquer finish on those La Scalas is really impressive. It looks like the finish on a grand piano & the blonde grill cloth is a great contrast. Do you know who painted them? (I'm in the StL area too.)

 

I've got a pair of Khorns that were originally raw birch before someone stained them with a dark walnut color. :blink:

 

I've been thinking about how to re-finish the Khorns... Now I'm thinking a finish like the one on these black La Scalas (grill cloth included) would look really good on the Khorns.

 

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8 hours ago, Hornographic said:

@mookiestl, the black lacquer finish on those La Scalas is really impressive. It looks like the finish on a grand piano & the blonde grill cloth is a great contrast. Do you know who painted them? (I'm in the StL area too.)

 

I've got a pair of Khorns that were originally raw birch before someone stained them with a dark walnut color. :blink:

 

I've been thinking about how to re-finish the Khorns... Now I'm thinking a finish like the one on these black La Scalas (grill cloth included) would look really good on the Khorns.

 

Those were refinished by @Matthews in Columbia MO. Believe it or not, it was with a rattle can. He is meticulous and somehow got that to work. He did about 4 or 5 different version all with the cane look grills and each and every pair were gorgeous. Cincymat had a pair as well. I think the black lacquer finish and cane grills would look great with that view you have.

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On ‎4‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 7:23 PM, codewritinfool said:

I have no idea, but I have a bunch of guesses, and THESE ARE ONLY GUESSES:

 

The motorboard opening was designed with the dimensions it has for a reason.

It provides some compression and lines up with the rear diverter wood. Called a "splitter"

There's probably a little bit of tolerance in there for manufacturing tool wear.

At some point, increase in opening size will interfere with the horn expansion rate.

PWK knew way more than I do, and this is how he wanted it for the part he could control.

 

That said, I wouldn't make changes to the motorboard opening size.  I get the OCD thing (I have a really minor case), but at some point there are glue joints that don't have the same amount of glue, screws that are not tightened uniformly, brads that aren't driven all the same angles, etc.  In other words, where does it end?  I wouldn't mess with it.  Take a deep breath and relax, grab a beer, and listen to whatever tunes you like.

 

I'd love the real answer to this question, though.  Someone on here will know.

 

Just leave the compression slot in the motor-board as it is.  Nobody will ever see it anyway.  I would have just mounted a full-length 1.5" diameter solid hardwood dowel left to right on the top rear of the bass bin (a la towel rack set-up), then put non-rotating casters on the bottom rear PANEL of the bass bin, then you just lean them back and pull them around on two wheels, and they can still sit directly on their bottoms when in use.  Be sure to take some compressed air and blow out all the crap that has gathered over the years inside the rear portion of the bass bin...mouse nests, spider egg cases, stuffed toys...whatever...it will actually improve the bass horn sound-path-way and make them sound better.

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13 hours ago, MookieStl said:

Those were refinished by @Matthews in Columbia MO. Believe it or not, it was with a rattle can. He is meticulous and somehow got that to work. He did about 4 or 5 different version all with the cane look grills and each and every pair were gorgeous. Cincymat had a pair as well. I think the black lacquer finish and cane grills would look great with that view you have.

 

Thanks, @MookieStl. I thought the lighter pair of LS's in the back of that picture looked familiar. They were up for sale last year, right?

 

It's surprising @Matthews got such a nice finish out of a spray can. Lots of coats and lots of patience, I suppose. Maybe he can tell me where he bought the grille cloth.

 

I'm not sure I could manage that spray can feat, but there's a guy close to me who does really good furniture repair work. Or maybe I can find an auto body shop to put a black lacquer finish on the horns.

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Well, it has been slow.  I have an elderly mother that I've been spending time with, and as a result I haven't worked on the La Scala's much throughout the weekday evenings.

 

I did repaint everything and put the handles back on and the aluminum trim.

 

IMG_3054.jpg

 

...and from the front:

IMG_3055.jpg

 

Paint turned out really nice.

 

The grille cloth is on the way, and I plan to make the LF sections look like a W like @MookieStl did for @Matthews.  After talking it over a bit with @Hornographic, I decided on the MelloTone SF-7005 cloth from http://www.parts-express.com.

 

261-805_HR_0.jpg

 

Should look great.

 

 

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Another late night, no chance to do much.  Saturday should be fruitful since the weather is supposed to be good and it doesn't look like I'll have much else to work on.

 

In the meantime, last night I was thinking about the front corners.  The ball corners I chose had three mounting tabs on them, but for the front corners I could only use two of the three tabs.  I used a nibbler tool to remove one of the mounting tabs and a file to clean up the edge.

 

After mounting the corner, I decided that it wasn't strong enough because of the missing tab, so I drilled two holes in the front edge and put 3/4" long #8 lath screws in.  Looks like this:

 

IMG_3071.jpg

 

Rock solid now.

 

More to come.  Debating with @Hornographic on how to fashion the HF sections.  You might remember that after I cut them off I was basically left with:

  • a top board (which I re-purposed as a woofer door)
  • an undersized front panel (3/4" of it went with the LF section because of how the La Scala is built)
  • two worthless sides because of giant handle holes that the former owner cut into them.

 

The sides could be cut up and used for doghouse braces.  The front could be used as-is if I overlooked the missing 3/4 bottom edge.

 

I was thinking for a while about using 1/2" plywood for the entire HF section to cut down on weight, but @Hornographic convinced me today that it'd probably be too flimsy.  The more I think about it, I think he's right.  I'll probably just pick up some 3/4" plywood and make fresh tops.  If I do that, I'll probably use the existing front panels, and bring the HF bottom board all the way to the front edge to make up for the missing 3/4" piece.  Once I put the metal edging on you'll never see it anyway.

 

 

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@codewritinfool The top portion of LSI splits are made with 1/2" plywood. I was surprised to find that out a while back. So I would not shy away from using the 1/2" plywood. 3/4" will indeed be stronger but you are going through this whole process to make it portable (kinda)! One thing I don't like about using the 1/2" is that they don't use wood screws from the inside, they actually put machine screws through the face of the speaker and add a nut to the inside. They are counter sunk and once painted over, are hard to notice.

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5 minutes ago, MookieStl said:

@codewritinfool The top portion of LSI splits are made with 1/2" plywood. I was surprised to find that out a while back. So I would not shy away from using the 1/2" plywood. 3/4" will indeed be stronger but you are going through this whole process to make it portable (kinda)! One thing I don't like about using the 1/2" is that they don't use wood screws from the inside, they actually put machine screws through the face of the speaker and add a nut to the inside. They are counter sunk and once painted over, are hard to notice.

 

@MookieStl, thanks for noticing this and replying!  This is awesome news since I haven't bought plywood yet.

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14 minutes ago, MookieStl said:

One thing I don't like about using the 1/2" is that they don't use wood screws from the inside, they actually put machine screws through the face of the speaker and add a nut to the inside. They are counter sunk and once painted over, are hard to notice.

Ya know, if I used the 3/4" fronts I already have and 1/2" top, bottom, sides, and back, I could bypass this little issue.

 

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21 minutes ago, codewritinfool said:

Ya know, if I used the 3/4" fronts I already have and 1/2" top, bottom, sides, and back, I could bypass this little issue.

 

That would be a good work around. I really don't mind the screws that much, I just know some that do ( @cincymat) I'm guessing the 1/2" just isn't thick enough to hold with wood screws.

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58 minutes ago, MookieStl said:

That would be a good work around. I really don't mind the screws that much, I just know some that do ( @cincymat) I'm guessing the 1/2" just isn't thick enough to hold with wood screws.

1/2” is not thick enough to hold wood screws. Klipsch drills through holes and uses machine screws to hold the drivers in place.  You can use 3/4” with wood screws from the back. However, the end of the squawker horn is 1/4” further back in the top hot. If the back is open no problem.  If enclosed there might not be enough depth.  

 

@codewritinfool if you need some pre cut 1/2” fronts I’ll send them to you as I have a spare set.  

 

Cincy

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12 hours ago, cincymat said:

You can use 3/4” with wood screws from the back. However, the end of the squawker horn is 1/4” further back in the top hot. If the back is open no problem.  If enclosed there might not be enough depth.  

 

@codewritinfool if you need some pre cut 1/2” fronts I’ll send them to you as I have a spare set.  

 

Cincy

Thanks for the offer, @cincymat, but I will probably use the 3/4" fronts.  I don't really understand the depth problem - I'm building the HF section from scratch (except for maybe the fronts) so the depth will be whatever it needs to be to house the squawker too.  Besides, these were factory cabinets and the squawker doesn't protrude on those - why would it be protruding now?  Is a split HF section typically not as deep as the LF section?  I was going to make the depth identical.

 

EDIT: I'm completely clueless.  See below.  @cincymat delivers with wisdom, but like pearls before swine, I didn't get it....

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HF section is usually (and should be) the same depth as the LF. If you are making the top triangular like the factory splits, there is very little room inside the box and using up an extra 1/4" may make a difference. Now that I am thinking about it, maybe you should use machine screws from the outside to mount the horns. You wont have much room inside the box for a drill or impact. Might be easier to simply secure the nut and torque from the outside. The large handle Klipsch uses and the connection cup on the opposite side are what give you access to the x over, drivers and the K400. Everything fits, but barely. I have never tried to take mine apart (just removed a handle to view the inside). Maybe someone who has, can give a few tips on accessing everything inside this tight enclosure. Mine are out on loan right now or I would go look.

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