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JonathanN97

Sub-10 Resistor Keeps burning out

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Hey everyone, My sub-10 is having problems that I know everyone has but my problem seems different then what the usual is. My R52 resistor is continuing to blow out. I replaced it and it blew again. the fuse doesn't blow or anything, but the resistor does right when I flip the on switch. Is there a solution to this that people know of? Like what could be causing it or maybe using a 10 ohm resistor with higher wattage than 1 ohm. The original resistor is 10 ohm 1 watt. Just not sure which way to go next

 

Thank you for any help

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1 minute ago, JonathanN97 said:

Just not sure which way to go next

Contact Edwards Electronics through e-bay and have your amp rebuilt.

 

No affil.

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On 3/26/2018 at 3:05 PM, JonathanN97 said:

Hey everyone, My sub-10 is having problems that I know everyone has but my problem seems different then what the usual is. My R52 resistor is continuing to blow out. I replaced it and it blew again. the fuse doesn't blow or anything, but the resistor does right when I flip the on switch. Is there a solution to this that people know of? Like what could be causing it or maybe using a 10 ohm resistor with higher wattage than 1 ohm. The original resistor is 10 ohm 1 watt. Just not sure which way to go next

 

Thank you for any help

Where is that resistor in the circuit?  How long does it take to blow?  When does it blow (immediately after turn on, after playing hard, after some time etc?)

If mains AC hits it directly on turn, or if it immediately follows the first filter caps, then a 1 watt rating is too low.  The plate amps of this era also suffered the cap plague.

On most of the ones I've repaired the lowest power related resistors have all been 5 watts or better

Need to see where it is

The zeners are cheap on these and commonly fail as well

Also, check for bad solder joints (you will probably find more than  few)

Most but not all of the amps on powered subs (all brands) are built about as well as stock PC power supplies - they don't anticipate anyone repairing them - just replacing

It's "OK", meaning safe, to beef up (over rate) certain parts from "factory" IF everything else is checked out and all your voltages are "OK" after you make your diagnosis/repair(s)

Most of these amps were designed to only last a few years (same as stock PC switching PWR supplies) - "they" build these things just as close to the edge as is possible and still work

I have a BassCube 12S on the bench right now going into shut down after it gets hot

Inspect all the boards carefully and pay close attention to the electrolytics 

Good hunting!

 

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Seems like Indigo Electronics in Canada was a major supplier of these BASH amps to many companies. I found identical schematics in Klipsch, JBL/Infinity  subs and powered speakers.    Trying to fix mine!   

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