Beautiful Chorus IIs again for sale

[Maximus89]

I always figured the black lacquer were baltic birch with a birch veneer. It's just getting painted anyway. Plus sanding black paint below the grain would leave a very thin layer, and most likely burn through the edges. Plus I have no idea how lacquer thinner would effect the 25 year old glue.
I was wrong, yours look much better than I imagined was possible.
Could this be my next move? I would need to look at my grain pattern first.
 

Yes. It’s oak or ash that they apply the black lacquer onto. The La Scala was birch that was blacked out though. Not sure about the Cornwall and Heresy. After that it was oak and now ash.
I’m pretty sure they didn’t start using ash until around the Time the original Rf-7 came out and al the black speakers are black ash now I believe including the Forte III, RF-7 III and La Scala II and KHorns. Could be wrong though.
It’s popular to ebonize oak and ash because the grains pop beautifully in the light, but more natural, oak or ash tends to look out dated. The distressed oak Forte III looks good as weathered/distressed/graying oak seems to be a very popular thing to do these days. That could also be an option you can do with your black oak Forte II.

Thanks, I too thought my CHII turned out beautifully even with the damaged veneer and ugly risers. That was just after applying 3-4 coats of Danish Oil and light wet sanding in between. Apparently it takes weeks for Danish Oil to cure before applying a poly or lacquer finish, so with my lack of patience, I just put the speaker together to enjoy using them and never got around to putting the top coat on. They started to get a bit dull and dry, but I was recommended to use Watco Rejuvenating Oil and I also had Feed-N-Wax Polish and conditioner from Howard that I could have buffed to a nice satin sheen but wax requires re-application every so often apparently. I’m new to all this stuff so I could be wrong as your name happens to be carpenter and you know all of this or better.


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[314carpenter]

[Maximus89]

Those are original Walnut Oil right?

[Maximus89]

11 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

he distressed oak Forte III looks good as weathered/distressed/graying oak seems to be a very popular thing to do these days. That could also be an option you can do with your black oak Forte II.

@finebokeh made custom racks in distressed oak to match his distressed oak Forte III



What he did:
"I used Minwax wood finish penetrating stain, a coat of Weathered Oak 270 followed by a coat of Classic Gray 271.  Given a second chance I would experiment by mixing the two stains together in different proportions rather than using two separate applications.   It is finished with Polycrylic clear satin.

 

The fabric is Wichelt 18 Count Lambswool Linen Fabric and is a dead ringer by my eye."

[314carpenter]

[314carpenter]

[Maximus89]

Yes, 6 months on wax, up to 1 year on oil. The method above is maintenance free. Damp rag. That's it. Ever. If you get a scratch, sand 330 and 1 coat Arm-R-Seal and done.

Yours look really good though I prefer slightly less red, but it looks like you were trying to match the original look which did have a slightly red tone to it.

I know about the rags, laid them out on the trash can after use.
The oil needs reapplication after a year, but what about if I used a satin poly top coat after the Danish oil cured?


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[314carpenter]

[Maximus89]

Poly over oil is a great choice. Water based varnishes can pull color, so either choose oil based, or apply wax free shellac before the top coat. Watco danish oil also contains urethane but at 1/3 ratio, so it would take 9 coats of danish oil to give the same protection as 3 coats varnish(poly). Watco Rejuvenating oil contains no urethane. Very little protection. Wax is for slightly more protection.

What exactly does the Watco rejuvenating oil do if I applied it to the Danish Oil while it’s curing before applying poly?


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[314carpenter]