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New caps and break in


Shakeydeal

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On ‎6‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 10:33 PM, Schu said:

 

I don't think Dean recommends Jupiter any more... I love them personally. I'm not the only one either.

 

 

I still prefer Jupiter at the primary position (midrange cap), but have been using polystyrene film types on the tweeter.

 

I’m back to using Auricaps in my standard build, and I’ve been listening to a pair of those for about a week.

 

Simply astounds me that people still hang on to the “no difference in sound between capacitors” nonsense.  

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On ‎6‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 11:05 PM, jimjimbo said:

Seriously, change the mid tap from 4 to 3 on the T2A, and change the 13uf to a 6.8uf.  This has been a long standing mod that lots and lots of folks have done and are very pleased with the results.  And, ditch the Sonicaps and get the Audiocap PPT Thetas.

 

This drops the midrange to -6dB. With my intimate listening set up, parts, and tube amp - the setting just sounds too recessed. I've always suspected that large rooms and the higher power levels required to reach live levels, would benefit from the mod - I've lost count as to how many I've built that way. 

 

This is also primarily what people are liking when they hear the Universal, which Al sends out at the -6dB setting.

 

One of the things I really like about the AA is that because of the low part count, you can afford to use something better than an entry level metalized capacitor. You don't have to use Jupiters. Like Jim said, you can use a nice film and foil capacitor like the AudioCap PPT Theta. With that particular part, use 10uF, and attenuate 4dB.

 

Everything downstream passes through the crossover before it gets to the drivers. Help me understand the reasoning behind spending thousands of dollars on downstream components, only to pass everything through entry level capacitors (while continuing to use other parts on the network which are 40-50 years old).

 

Hey Shakey, you were warned ahead of time. :-) A quick fix to your problem, which doesn't require you to change the capacitor, is to use a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with your K-55. Just attach it to the barrier strip, and move the wire from Tap 4 to Tap 3. The sound will still be clinical and thin, but at least it won't be peeling the paint off of your walls.

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Thanks to everyone for the comments and advice. I have acquired a pair of Volti Audio VX crossovers and have been tuning them all weekend. I ended up at -5.4db on the midrange and this sounds very, very good.

 

Next project will be adding some binding posts somewhere so I can use my good speaker cable and get rid of this Crutchfield special.

 

Shakey

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1 hour ago, Deang said:

Hey Shakey, you were warned ahead of time. :-) A quick fix to your problem, which doesn't require you to change the capacitor, is to use a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with your K-55. Just attach it to the barrier strip, and move the wire from Tap 4 to Tap 3. The sound will still be clinical and thin, but at least it won't be peeling the paint off of your walls.

L-Pads!!!!

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31 minutes ago, Shakeydeal said:

Next project will be adding some binding posts somewhere so I can use my good speaker cable and get rid of this Crutchfield special.

 

Shakey

 

Try connecting the speaker cable directly to the VX xover. Might have to go bare wire

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Just now, EmilC said:

 

Try connecting the speaker cable directly to the VX xover. Might have to go bare wire

 

 

I don't have enough length to reach up to the xover. And my cables are Zu Audio Libtec, I really don't want to hack off the spade connectors to find out what's underneath. And also render them useless for anyone else if I have to sell.

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Just to show you different tastes.............when I acquired an NBS preamp  I immediately did not like how it sounded at all.  I couldn't put my finger on what was causing the thick rolled off vintage sound (my description).  It was a real problem for me.  Well I couldn't get those expensive Jupiters out of there fast enough.  Not for me at all.

 

I recapped with Auricaps and all became well.

 

Just an example of what you read on audio forums may not taste the same when the change comes around to your house.

 

Good Lord, I can't even imagine my VRDs with those Jupiters.  Immediate surgery would be required.

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1 hour ago, mark1101 said:

... when I acquired an NBS preamp  I immediately did not like how it sounded at all.  I couldn't put my finger on what was causing the thick rolled off vintage sound (my description).  It was a real problem for me.  Well I couldn't get those expensive Jupiters out of there fast enough.

 

Which is exactly why they work well in the old Klipsch filter designs.

 

BTW, tested by Crites, who said ESR was very low. So, what accounts for the difference in sound?

 

I wouldn't characterize the sound as "thick and rolled off", but relaxed and smooth.

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Emphasis... smooth.

The shape and texture isn't jagged and sharp but is indeed rounded and smooth. 

These differences are not good versus bad or right versus wrong, but shades of grey and personal preference.

 

I find a lot of combinations with the very resolving, highly efficient and forward sounding Klipsch Heritage to be overwhelming and fatiguing. Not so with certain "tuned" front-end components.

 

There seems to be a lot of push back when it comes to "Boutique" components... primarily based around price versus performance issues, and this includes capacitors.

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