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YOU can help me with my Home Theater Builder Magazine article project!!!


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As you may be aware, there is a new magazine being published called Home Theater Builder Magazine. http://www.hometheaterbuilder.com The first issue should be out in the newsstands at the end of October. The magazine is focused upon the home theater lover that likes to do-it-yourself on many projects, upgrading and constantly improving to enjoy home audio/visual. This is exactly the kind of thing for us! 4.gif

I've been asked by the publisher to write a series of articles covering my personal home theater project, as I am about to move, buy a house, and build a home theater in whatever house I get. Although I'm an audio/visual enthusiast and have done some research, I have NO experience in building home theaters or home improvement. Therefore I VERY MUCH need your help with this project.

Any input you provide could help guide the direction my project goes! You'll be able to follow along with me and my exploits every month, and those who provide significant helpful input will be publicly recognized in my article. Want to be famous?

Right now what I need help with is defining criteria for my home search. I'm looking on the internet for homes now, and will be searching in person in about a week. I'm especially looking at homes that have an unfinished basement, large rec room or family room, or some other area that I could make a DEDICATED space for a theater. If not, I'll be trying to find a way to create the theater in a family or living room, but I would prefer not to. I'm looking to create a theater for ideally 6 or more people, with a front video projector. I would like to build it to isolate much sound from leaving the room, and have all light sources controlled. (i.e. no light leaking in from windows) I intend to dabble in home automation and using my home computer with the theater as well, although my primary focus in the project will be to construct the actual theater room.

Pretend you're me. What would you be looking for when you go shopping for homes? Older homes that would tend to have more space and basements? Newer homes? Types of construction? (brick, concrete walls, etc) How big of an area should I be looking for to build a 6 person LARGE screen front projection theater? How high a ceiling? Other factors like HVAC and electricity?

Again, any help, input, advice, feedback, or otherwise you could send my way would be very much appreciated. Feel free to contact me. Thank you!!!!

My current equipment, that may be upgraded:

Sony FD Trinitron Wega KV-36F15, 36 flat viewing screen

Yamaha RX-V2095 5.1 receiver with front effect speaker channels

Klipsch KLF-30 Main speakers

Klipsch KLF-C7 Center channel

Klipsch KSW-15 Subwoofer

Klipsch KSP-S6 Surround Speakers

Klipsch KSB 1.1 Front Effect Speakers

JVC HR-S8006UM S-VHS VCR

Panasonic DVD-CV50 5-Disc DVD changer

Kenwood KX-69W Cassette Deck

Kenwood 103CD 5-Disc CD changer

Dell Dimension 8200 2.2GHz Pentium 4 Desktop

Acoustic Research Silver Grade cabling

Monster Cable Speaker Cable

Beige stuffed sectional couch of unknown origin

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you for sure want a room that will be accousticaly sound, and capable of 100% darkness. Front projection screens don't work well with any light at all, well at least they work a whole lot better in absolute darkness. for audio, you'll want to map the room out, example: a corner or spot on the wall reserved for the component rack, if you want any speakers in wall, you need to plan that out ahead of time. For electrical, if you don't want cables running around, you need to plan where you'll have speaker jacks, and possibly place power outlets where you'll have the component racks so you don't have to worry about extension cables. As for ceiling height, since the projector would be mounted to the ceiling, you have to plan some around that. but the standard, 8-10 feet should be fine. If it has concrete walls you'll definitly want to put in sound pads to reduce nasty reflections.

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Careful you don't miss the forest for the trees.

I own a two story house with a full, finished basement.

I'm tired of climbing stairs:) It's just one of those things you don't think about when you buy a house.

A full, finished basement would be the simplest solution for controlling sound from the outside. It's also best for controlling light. The downside is that all of the mechanical related stuff is in the basement (HVAC, washer and dryer, etc.) It would be relatively easy to stand up some well insulated walls around the mechanics (basically a "room") -- to isolate the noise.

New construction will give you a very dry basement. Older construction may offer some problems here. Opt for New Construction, with 4000psi concrete for the concrete. Make sure you see them pressure test it.

Go for brick. Always.

The alternative is a larger house built on slab that has a large "family" room. Most modern houses have a "Great Room" or family room. The modern day "Great Rooms" have cathedral ceilings, which are pretty cool. The problem here is plenty of glass. I think it would be close to impossible to achieve total darkness with these type rooms. Even houses built in the 70's and 80's will typically have at least a patio door with glass. You may have to look long and hard to find a house with the right room. The upside is that when you find this house, there is a good chance you will end up liking the rest of the house as well.

You need to decide if you want to go with "spaciousness" or "cozy-ness". I would try to strike a balance here.

"Six people", and I see six Lazy Boy recliners. Maybe two reclining type loveseats (for couples), and two recliners. I would elevate the second row of seats.

You mentioned HVAC: You're only going to have control over this if you go with new construction. Modding an already built house is a bear. If you wanted to increase the output of the HVAC to accomodate the HT room, then you not only need to put in a bigger outside unit, but the inside unit needs to be increased in size as well (air handler and coil). You then need to add the additional ductwork to accomodate the increase in output. It can get very expensive. Also, you would need to see the blue prints of the house to first see if it's even possible.

With new construction, you have control. No central return air. Go with multiple return air vents, one in each room of the house. You can tell the builder which room is being designated for the HT room, and he can put you in contact with the HVAC company doing the work. Tell them the total BTU of output of your equipment, as well as how many people you expect to have in the room most of the time. The heating and cooling load calculation will then be based on this information.

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I believe that this has the potential to really turn into a neat project, something that is a little bit different than other journals of people building home theaters. Nobody wants to read about a prideful know-nothing with no skills and some money that is trying to do a project all by himself, closed off from the rest of the world and doing no research. Heck, that kind of person that doesn't go out and gather information and needed help is rather foolish in my book, and their project is destined to fail. On the other hand, the person that has done research, picked the brains of experts, decided what aspects he can't do himself and must hire contractors for, and has above all done thorough planning shoots for a much greater chance of success.

I've been an audio/visual enthusiast for some time, following technology with curiosity. I've been looking into this forum and the Home Theater Forum for some time now, mostly just reading these great questions others have had with issues I'd never even thought of and compiling the info for my future project. In the last few months, I've been asking a few questions of my own, as I've been closer to starting my own project. In all actuality, if I've had a question about something I've found a much better source of information just searching for past questions on the same topic instead of bothering everybody on the same thing again. I can't tell you how beneficial this has all been!

All of us movie enthusiasts don't seem to have much patience except for actually building our theater projects that takes months or years. I'm the same way--if I want to know something, I want to ask and find out NOW. (grin) Don't worry--all details will be revealed in the column series. You'll find out that for expert guidance and advice, several gurus in their field have agreed to participate in my project. Dennis Erskine has signed on as the chief designer, so I don't go running off in the wrong direction with the project building a high-quality room that looks and sounds like crap. Others will guide the technical and aesthetic portions, and I'm open to input from the forums I frequent.

For those who are worried about the content of the magazine, I think again if you can be patient for a few days until its published you'll be satisfied. The vast majority of the magazine IS professionals and experts in their field, teaching in what they know best and providing information to the rest of us. If you check out the magazine website, http://hometheaterbuilder.com you'll find several names on the staff you recognize, including senior staff of this forum! My project, on the other hand, is one of the few pieces of the other side of do-it-yourself, that will hopefully show lessons learned and pitfalls that can happen in reality during an actual project. As I gather information and tap into resources, it will demonstrate exactly what the reader can be doing in their project to broaden their knowledge as well. To summarize--I will not be teaching and providing as a source, but demonstrating and passing on as a conduit. (wow, that was kind of zen)

Two aspects of this project should be unique--first, experts in their fields don't need to ask for input from you the reader since they already know it all. (right? grin) But this project will be an application where those who want to participate and be a part of something developing in real life as they read about it can do so. Second, we're not starting with an already defined home and theater project space. I still haven't even found the home yet, much yet even bought it, so we're still very much in the research and dream stage. In order to maximize the potential for the theater to be great, I'm starting here the transition from my own private gather-all-information-and-learn-all-you-can stage to the more joint choose-the-best-team-to-make-the-project-and-start-defining-the-project stage.

Keep providing input! Good or bad, this is the kind of stuff we need to hear to make this project work and stay out of the pits!

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I have a thought which you may wish to pick up on.

The problem is that readers come from various levels of budgets and flexibility. Put them in to three classes. So you're bound to turn off two thirds of all of them with any given article.

Perhaps you could start with basic issues of video, sound tr*****nt, electronics, speakers. Some base line of target results. Then look for three separate target installations.

It could be that the high end installation is a dream system. But then see how much bang for the buck can be integrated into the mid and budget systems. Where can sweat equity pay off. Some folks can't tear up the walls and would like an alternative. Is it really necessary to buy expensive equipment to get good results, and move walls. Make an argument that off the shelf products can be used by amateur constructors will make the grade. Which I think is true, and what people are looking for.

So, you may wind up with some comparisons that the dream system had this or that, yet here is a more afordable way of getting much of the same results. Also that budget systems can be upgraded to the midrange.

Gil

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Okay, I finally realized what you guys were joking about with the comuputer editing.

I was talking about R O O M T R E A T M E N T.

I was not using the common place vulgarity of E A T M E.

I object to computers being used as a subsitute to common sense. And I object to censorship as a substitutue for politeness.

Gil

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We are on somewhat common ground.I'm currently in the construction phase of my new room.Here are a few of the features i'm going with.first of all ceiling dampening,i went with sm foam glued to the underside of the floor between the floor joists (if yours is a basement development).Then normal fiberglass insulation,although the spray in celulose would have been better.The floor is carpet of cource for sound absorbion , but i put hardwood inlays under my subs.The walls are drywall, now i'm building 4x8 acoustic panels and covering them with material to match the decor. The walls will look like library paneling when complete.The panels will be boardered with oak trim all the way around them.This room is basicly a giant sponge.The sofa will be material not leather,everything will absorb sound.This will help get rid of enoying highs at increased volume levels and keep the room from rumbling bass.The room you are speaking of is going to need to be somewere around 30 feet long to accomidate seating and placement of rear speakers and distance from viewing screen.I have many more ideas and features to discuss later i'll follow your postings.

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  • 4 weeks later...

This is all good stuff, and I'd like to hear more. As you all may know, the Home Theater Builder Magazine is still going to print, which has slowed down the initial mailing of the premier issue. Once it takes off, I'll be able to discuss more about my project. But it continues to develop and I'll have much more very soon.

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  • 2 months later...

Well, my project is in full swing, and I'm talking about it in detail in the magazine. One issue is out already, with a second shipping any day now. I'm currently laying down the rubber subfloor acoustical matting and then putting a second plywood flooring over the top. Walls to come next. This is fun!

CDotur@hometheaterbuilder.com

www.hometheaterbuilder.com

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  • 1 month later...

Well, I'm up to the stage of wiring the room now for lighting and sound before I drywall. Issue 2 has been out for a bit, and issue 3 will follow soon.

Question--I'm going to upgrade my Yamaha RX-V2095 receiver as part of my project to something higher-end with 7.1, and I'm looking at Parasound and Rotel. Parasound seems to have so much to offer. Does anyone have Parasound mated up to their Klipsch setup? How's the sound?

My speaker group:

KLF-30 Mains

C-7 Center

KSP-S6 Side Surrounds

KSP-S6 Back Surrounds

KSW-15 Subwoofer, possible SVS upgrade

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I recently completed a home theater / media room on my third floor / attic. I live in a large condominium, which made this an interesting project.

The third floor has a main room, which are 12 x 24 feet. The actual usable space of the third floor is 24 x 24 feet -(an additional 6 x 24 feet on each side). The additional space added much room for storage - three large storage closets in the front separated by two dormer windows and a large back "closet" for additional storage and the 3rd floor dedicated HVAC unit. The air return vent to the HVAC unit is approximately 24 feet away from the blower which greatly reduces the air sound when on.

As far as the "neighboring wall" of the condo, I actually framed out another wall on top of the old wall or sheet rock. I layered this space with styro foam sound absorbing sheets I purchased from Lowe's. I left about an inch of dead air space - which I was told helped to dampen deep bass sound. The additional wall seems to adequately suppress any sound from entering our neighbors condo as evidenced by my neighbor claiming she cannot hear any noise when I watch a movie (I am still not convinced of this even though I keep the sound at a tolerable level!). The additional wall also allowed easy access for me to run speaker wire, cable and add additional outlets for power sources. Speaking of power sources I installed a sub panel (fuse box) dedicated to the third floor this floor only. I allowed dedicated breakers for my stereo, television and small refrigerator.

As far as keeping sound from escaping to the outside, I put a layer of R-13 insulation around the main room and also installed an additional layer on the outer wall and roofline. I installed R-30 for the ceiling.

The main room already had comparable to an R-20 underneath the sub floor plywood original ceiling insulation. I added an additional layer of ¾ inch plywood on top of the original sub floor to strengthen and dampen noise. I have new padding and carpet of course.

I have the system set up for 5.1 presently (meets the requirements of my present system) and included 2 additional speaker wire sets (left and right rear) when I increase to 7.1 (at some point).

The only sources of natural light in the room are the two dormer windows, which are somewhat small and can be easily covered to eliminate any light from entering the room. I would like to consider getting a DLP projector such as the Piano which sells for around $3,000. I am told the bulb lasts about 1,000 hours and each replacement bulb costs approximately $230.

I would install a ceiling bracket for the projector and also hang a screen that can be lowered in front of my existing television (and raised) at the touch of a button.

There are two drawbacks to the Piano projector....

1. The remote cannot turn the projector on and off. The only power switch is on the actual unit creating a problem, when ceiling mounted.

2. There is only one set of component video inputs. Does not allow for future HDTV receiver hook-up and progressive scan DVD player (and eventually HDDVD player) hookup.

I currently have comfortable seating for 4 two recliners to the sides and a love seat recliner further back in the center sweet spot.

One issue I am experiencing is the vibration of recessed lighting fixtures with powerful bass. I intend to remedy this in the next few weeks. I tried to think of everything possible prior to beginning the project feel free to contact me with questions I know it is always helpful to have others input.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for the input, Kmijeski. Sounds like my project is actually somewhat similar to yours in the direction it's taking and the dimensions.

For those who haven't caught a copy of the magazine, my room is ending up as 12' by 22' with an 8'2" ceiling. Unfinished dimensions. I have a 3' by 8' alcove on one side of the theater that I'm going to use as an equipment area. Plan is to use 6 seats in two rows of three each, front projection, and maybe 102" screen acoustically perforated so I can put my Klipsch speakers behind it.

Next question for people: I'm going to use four KSP-S6 speakers for the surrounds. Where would you put these in relation to the seating? Would you go for standard THX recommended placement? Separate the two rear surrounds a bit? Do anything different since it is a little smaller of a room?

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Let me throw in my two cents worth. In order to pay for all my expensive toys, what I do for a living is design and build multi-million dollar homes. Needless to say, nearly every one of them today is equipped with a dedicated home theatre room. I have more than just a bit of experience building theaters and will make myself available throught this BB for you to consult should you wish. Let me just throw in a bit of information for you that you may find useful. Recently we have been using an acoustical control material called Sonopan. it is a 5/8" thick acoustically absorbant board theat is applied to the framing underneath the drywall. We find that this material works better at isolating the room from it's surroundings than acoustically decoupling the walls or ceiling with double staggered studs. It also goes a long way to acoustically deaden the room since it prevents resonance or drum skin effect of the drywall. More information is available from the manufacturer Materiaux Cascades, Inc 800-561-4279.

JR

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