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Step in here smart guys


USNRET

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7 minutes ago, Schu said:

If the balls movement is tied to the doors movement (via a direct connection) how are you supposed to get a yield from the ball that is SHORTER than the yield of the door travel?

The door can not move 85.5" and the ball move 58"... UNLESS you use some kind of "eccentric" adjustment, such as a pivoting cam. 

Otherwise the balls movement is linear.

Exactly I need something to change that from a 1:1 ratio to ~ 1:0.67

 

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I think you need a bell crank situation. Essentially an L__ <-.  pivoted at the ceiling.  Initially the long leg is horizontal with the string and tennis ball hanging down from its end..  It is under the plane of the door which is horizontal as it retracts. The short vertical section is in the path of the upper edge of the door.

 

As the door moves nose-ward of the car to the left <, it forces the short vertical piece to move left which causes the mechanism to pivot counter clockwise.  Therefor the long element rotates down and the end with the tennis ball drops.  

 

WMcD

 

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Or... you could have a disconnect of the door and the ball.

 

Your mechanism could be a simple piston and return spring (plunger system... like a ball point pen) that connects with the doors leading edge 27.5" after door travel begins.

 

Personally I think an eccentric cam is the simplest system with the least moving parts. Mount it horizontally on the ceiling.

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7 minutes ago, WMcD said:

I think you need a bell crank situation. Essentially an L__ <-.  pivoted at the ceiling.  Initially the long leg is horizontal with the string and tennis ball hanging down from its end..  It is under the plane of the door which is horizontal as it retracts. The short vertical section is in the path of the upper edge of the door.

 

As the door moves nose-ward of the car to the left <, it forces the short vertical piece to move left which causes the mechanism to pivot counter clockwise.  Therefor the long element rotates down and the end with the tennis ball drops.  

 

WMcD

 

Trying to wrap my head around that. It seems that as door opens ball rises.

 

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10 minutes ago, Schu said:

Or... you could have a disconnect of the door and the ball.

 

Your mechanism could be a simple piston and return spring that connects with the doors leading edge 27.5" after door travel begins.

 

 

I think I get that. Say a tube with spring inside attached to a tab that contacts top edge of door at a certain distance. Door contacts tab and extends spring lowering ball. When door closes and detached from tab the spring returns and raises ball. Wouldn’t I still need a spring of 58” expansion?

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5 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:

Uh, because there is a lot of activity in there and I want to beat the problem. I use a target stand now and want to get something out of my darn way. 

 

May have to resort to https://www.homedepot.com/p/Chamberlain-Laser-Garage-Parking-Assist-CLLP1-P/303335534

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IF you don't move your car seat when you drive, try the old truck driver's trick...  Drive in as close as you want to park, look to the left, pick a spot on the wall and have someone mark that spot.  Everytime you drive in and look to the left, ya drive to the spot and stop.  I would give myself a few inches (or feet for a bad driver) everytime.  FREE!  [emoji4]  LOL
 


*Fixed
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In lieu of having to one day fix or adjust a 67% operating device, whether it's a gear drive or chain opener - dropping down and surprising the behooves out of you when the car isn't in the garage - how about a ripple plate glued to the floor, so the front tire will just Nussle into home plate, like a repair garage uses.... or just use a stapler and hang the ball there, with a string, to touch the windshield - this prevents actually walking through drop's of oil where the engine and transmission reside...

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1 minute ago, windashine said:

In lieu of having to one day fix or adjust a 67% operating device, whether it's a gear drive or chain opener - dropping down and surprising the behooves out of you when the car isn't in the garage - how about a ripple plate glued to the floor, so the front tire will just Nussle into home plate, like a repair garage uses.... or just use a stapler and hang the ball there, with a string, to touch the windshield - this prevents actually walking through drop's of oil where the engine and transmission reside...

Tried that glue didn’t last long with zero turn having to pivot over them. I don’t like the ball hanging there, wrapped up in my face, ladder, etc

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I think the washer stop is great however, I believe the distance from washer to stopping eye screw should be = to distance from windshield to ball NOT windshield to last eye screw. I am going for this just need longer eye screws to clear track lighting rails. A couple of trials with string wrapped thru washer to set exact spot and then some glue.

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10 minutes ago, Emile said:

Just use a set of pulleys. Example below is 0.5/1.0.  loop the wire one more time and you should have a  0.67/1.0 ratio ... OK; will have some wine at 5pm to "recalculate" and make sure :D 

Block-and-tackle-in-use.svg

Thought of that as my initial only option but issue one was the pulley diameters ?? to set ratio and then the need to overcome pulley axle friction with a light (weighted) ball.

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