Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community
Sign in to follow this  

Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX system stopped working, looks like it's lost power

Recommended Posts

Hello all,


I have the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX system like this (amber Klipsch THX badges and power pad incorporated into one of the smaller satellite speakers).


These speakers have produced fantastic quality sound, I have loved this system on my PC.


It has apparently just lost power (while in use), the green light on the speaker power pad is no longer illuminated. The sound literally just cut out while they were in use, no electrical smells or any weird sounds, it was as if they were simply unplugged.


I have always had them on 24/7/365, hooked into my PC. I've owned them for maybe 1.5 years, so not that old.


I've done the typically trouble shooting - unplugged/plugged back in, restarted my PC, checked the Windows 10 "manage audio devices/sound" looked to see if the speakers bar was being colorized up/down as audio is played. All to no avail. There's no static/buzzing sound when I plug them into my PC, or that static/buzzing sound when you touch your finger tip on the plug end that goes into your PC. They appear to be completely dead.


I plugged in an older set of speakers into my PC and those work fine, so obviously seems to be something with the Klipsch speakers.


Does anyone have any tips as to how to trouble shoot this on the Klipsch speakers? It seems like perhaps a fuse has blown?


I've opened up the subwoofer and taken some photos of the electronics (imgur.com gallery)


It all looks very clean inside, I don't see any signs of any connection being burned or damaged and there was no electrical burning smell when it went out.


Can anyone identify where the fuse is on this? I'd like to see about replacing that as the speaker system seems to be power dead. I'm obviously no electronics expert and only know enough to get myself electrocuted. I don't have any electronics troubleshooting equipment, either.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've noticed the same thing - although I've had mine for 4 or 5 years now.


It's kind of annoying that they put paint on all the components inside. I work as an electronics technician so I'm trying to figure this out. So far I noticed that the fuse on the power supply board opened. So I went to Microcenter, bought a new one, and replaced it but it popped as well. So there must be another problem but, like you, nothing inside looks burnt. I found a set of schematics for the 2.1, but it seems to be an older revision (it had a fuse on the outside, a power switch, a different power supply, and different parts inside). 


I'll let you know what I find. 


Oh, and the fuse is labeled "F1" and it's right next to the connector for the AC power. The specifications for it "T2A/L250V" are next to it as well. It's not a cartridge type fuse, they made it a through-hole component that is soldered onto the board.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the schematic on the site where they are located.  There is an new schematic for the newer ProMedia 2.1 boards (no switch or external fuse) as well as the old schematic (switch & external fuse).  Maybe that will help for starters.

The fuse on the newer board looks like the pink thing (rectangle box through hole component, cartridge I'm guessing is called) from the images. 

I read somewhere that the new board a MOSFET needed replacing when a fuse is being blown... though not sure if the same situation.  I'd check in circuit testable components and traces to see if something is open or out of spec bad.  Then you can try testing transistors in circuit unless you notice something strange... which is best to test those like capacitors out of circuit.  

You can also test the power rails... though be careful when doing so.  I'd check continuity first on the plug with a good fuse to make sure there isn't an open circuit like something in the transformer is blown.  Same goes on the resistance/continuity of the other side of the transformer.  I bought a cheap $7 and now they're $11 LCR meter to test components which works great.  You can test the inductors also if bad. 

I'd go with continuity testing first with a good fuse in, diode testing and then resistance of the resistors.  You can also do some testing of the other component with conductivity and resistance testing too... though is more challenging in circuit unless you understand the circuit schematics real well.  I'm still not that skilled yet. 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Create New...