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Bi-Amped K-Horn + K-402 horns w/ KPT-415 woofers


Khornukopia

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On 9/19/2019 at 12:56 AM, glens said:

Between the speaker and those doors I'm thinking upwards of 400 pounds.  What've you got for the floor system under them?

 

Your question is a good one, because these door slabs are heavy and safe handling and installation is always very important. So, if a pair of these 6 sq. ft. footprint (K-horn 5 sq. ft., doors 2"x36"x2 = 1 sq. ft.) each were placed on a wooden joist supported floor rated at 40 pounds per square foot/distributed load, with empty space in front of the loudspeakers, what advice would you give to the resident?  A well stocked side by side refrigerator might also weigh 400 pounds and will have additional weight on the floor when its doors are opened.

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The proportion of weight borne by the front "feet" will increase, but the overall weight should stay the same, unless you're putting something into or taking something out of the fridge, which is why you've got the door open.

 

Assuming bare joist bottoms to work with, I'd notch / shim as necessary the wall end of a 4x6 and support the "free" end to the "floor" below, with the "timber" crossing under the floor joists at right angles to them.  3 to 4 feet long with the support equidistant to the corner walls.  If the load is away from a corner, then one timber with two legs if the joists are at right angles to the wall, and two such timbers / supports as first described if the joists run parallel to the wall.

 

Crawl space below is at once both the easiest and most difficult, ranging to finished basement below for most involved.  Perhaps a good place for a closet?

 

Thanks for asking.  I'll be here all week.

 

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5 hours ago, glens said:

the overall weight should stay the same, unless you're putting something into or taking something out of the fridge, which is why you've got the door open.

 

I meant the additional weight on the kitchen floor from a person walking up to and standing in front of the fridge when the door is opened, bringing the total up to 500+lbs. I have not heard of a refrigerator collapsing a floor during normal usage, so I don't think some heavy speakers w/doors should require additional floor support under normal circumstances.

 

You probably know more about construction than I do, but I believe that floor load ratings are calculated on the span from bearing support to bearing support and are based on the idea that there will be localized concentrated loads with open unweighted spaces around the room, resulting in an average PSF.  So I think it would be safe to place big Klipsch speakers and door slab corners on a wood frame floor approved by the building code.

 

Now that I think about it, I've seen grand pianos, or pool tables, or large granite topped islands sitting on normal wood frame floors.

 

As mentioned earlier, my speakers are on concrete, but it is good to examine and discuss different applications.

 

 

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Some folks say that veneering is easy, but the process of gluing, clamping, trimming, and then sanding, staining and finishing (if required) the surface might be considered "work" by some people, including myself. It helps to be patient at each stage. The doors in the pictures posted above were factory finished, but in this post I have applied some Zebra and stained it to achieve the desired look for the project.

 

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On 9/13/2019 at 3:00 PM, Khornukopia said:

Have not done anything different with my stereo recently. Sometimes I like to go out to places where I just hear a soft breeze through the leaves, or some birds chirping.

 

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I miss doing that...

 

My husqvarna Te450 has been a dust collector for some time..

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  • 2 weeks later...

I pointed to the trees on the other side of the valley and said "Look at the deer". My friend said "I don't see them". Well, just because she did not see the animals in the distant woods, doesn't mean they were not there. When the deer moved to a different grazing area near an open meadow, she was able to see them.

 

That made me think about some of the forum threads on speaker wire gauge, or fancy wires, or bi-wiring, etc. If someone says they can hear a difference, maybe they can sense something that I do not, so the extra cost or effort is worth it for them and I can accept that. 

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I had just finished installing the last one of my color co-ordinated K-corners and was relieved to able to take a break from stereo-upgrade syndrome. Then a garage sale ad posted by @Westcoastdrums for some K-402 + K-510 combos popped up, so I bought one pair and I was hooked again! Actually, it feels good to have a new project to think about.

 

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My new, previously owned K-402 horn(s). Just sitting on some rolling carts in the garage. The included passive networks are crossed a bit high and therefore not exactly correct for using with the K-horn bass bin network, but it sounds very impressive anyway. Will probably active tri-amp these, after they settle into a fixed location.

 

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Edit:  I looked up the crossover specs for the intended cinema application and it appears that the passive crossover on these K-402 will work okay with the K-horn bass bin.

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