OT: OBDII Scanner

[billybob]

Greetings!

Trying to hope out a young dude with his car project. He has a 2008 Silverado which has been in a wreck. Jist of it is, which scanner will detect and clear the VAT or anti-theft code or codes that was generated because of the wreck. Not having a fuel cutoff switch or detectable inertia switch, all research has led to the ECM or computer. Going to an Auto Zone is not an option. Object is to spend as little as possible for a device which will enable the motor to crank to see if running well enough to put in another vehicle.

Instead of PM'ing known members for their input, here it is for those who may have ideas as to a solution.

TIA...Billy

[billybob]

Should have said that it appears to be maker, model and year specific. There is much info online yet, no cigar...

[CECAA850]

If all you want to do is clear codes you can do a capacitive discharge.  Remove BOTH cables from the battery and hold the cable ends together for maybe 15 seconds while making sure you're not touching a battery terminal.  This will discharge all capacitors in every module that are used for module memory.

[billybob]

39 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

If all you want to do is clear codes you can do a capacitive discharge.  Remove BOTH cables from the battery and hold the cable ends together for maybe 15 seconds while making sure you're not touching a battery terminal.  This will discharge all capacitors in every module that are used for module memory.

Interesting Carl... will give it a try...thanks!

[dtel]

1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:

If all you want to do is clear codes you can do a capacitive discharge.  Remove BOTH cables from the battery and hold the cable ends together for maybe 15 seconds while making sure you're not touching a battery terminal.  This will discharge all capacitors in every module that are used for module memory.

I have just disconected the negative terminal for a few minutes and it worked but touching both together would probably do it faster. It does take a little use for the computer to reset after you do that but it does it as you drive. 

[JL Sargent]

Other thoughts on that particular setup: I'm assuming 5.3 Liter Gen IV LS based engine? That engine has the DOD (displacement on Demand) 8/4 cylinder setup that was real prone to have excessive oil consumption. When in 4 cylinder mode the computer hydraulically (via special cam/ lifters) turned off 4 cylinders and that cool down would allow for the oil to bypass the rings. Do you know the history of the engine before wreck? Mileage? Below is a picture of my build where I did away with

the DOD and installed pistons, cam, lifters, springs, etc.

 

[billybob]

Working on the electric fuel pump presently and when back in tank will try. All we are attempting is to crank engine briefly to check it out.

Clearing the main codes to prevent cranking after accident when bags are deployed and anti-theft codes appear to be the problem.

Thanks Eldon...just trying to crank it.

@JL Sargent...seems I remember that or another rebuild you did here. Wow, sounds like you bypassed the oil problem by changing to a strictly 8 cylinder. Guess the 8/4 mentioned can be overcome electronically? Maybe not...

Think it is a 5.3 and an LS based for certain. Not sure of the generation but, guess could be. If this does turn out to be a DOD engine, guessing it is not a prime candidate for a street rod as young fellow wants. Was going to use the tranny but, may have to overcome the 4X4 differential by using a 700 trans...thanks...ummm

 

Edit: Around 230, 000...no history.

[JL Sargent]

1 hour ago, billybob said:

guessing it is not a prime candidate for a street rod as young fellow wants.

The bottom half of that engine is really strong and probably good for 1/2 a million miles if oil changed regularly and not mistreated too bad. Yes, the DOD can be defeated electronically BUT you are still stuck with a special DOD cam, special DOD valley plate, and 4 special DOD lifters. To build a street rod we've got to lose all that BS. Of course, if you do change it to a real full time V8 performance engine then you will need a good tune for that computer. NOTE: That is the "truck" version on that engine which has more torque than the car version if memory serves me.

 

 

 

[JL Sargent]

1 hour ago, billybob said:

Edit: Around 230, 000...no history.

Knowing that, if it were me, I would:

Once engine is pulled from truck I would pull heads and oil pan and inspect everything. If all of bottom end looks good, I would go back in with new cam (specs as I like) LS7 lifters, new valve springs (beehive or similar), new non DOD valley cover (see photo), a new timing chain w new LS7 chain guide, and new oil pump. The current rockers are roller bearing so could just roll with those. Replace the cast iron exhaust manifolds with stainless headers.

 

 

[billybob]

18 minutes ago, JL Sargent said:

The bottom half of that engine is really strong and probably good for 1/2 a million miles if oil changed regularly and not mistreated too bad. Yes, the DOD can be defeated electronically BUT you are still stuck with a special DOD cam, special DOD valley plate, and 4 special DOD lifters. To build a street rod we've got to lose all that BS. Of course, if you do change it to a real full time V8 performance engine then you will need a good tune for that computer. NOTE: That is the "truck" version on that engine which has more torque than the car version if memory serves me.

 

 

 

Was afraid you were going to say that about the cam, etc.

 

10 minutes ago, JL Sargent said:

Knowing that, if it were me, I would:

Once engine is pulled from truck I would pull heads and oil pan and inspect everything. If all of bottom end looks good, I would go back in with new cam (specs as I like) LS7 lifters, new valve springs (beehive or similar), new non DOD valley cover (see photo), a new timing chain w new LS7 chain guide, and new oil pump. The current rockers are roller bearing so could just roll with those. Replace the cast iron exhaust manifolds with stainless headers.

 

 

Think it is 320 hp for as you say the truck version of motor setup. Figure you were not doing the rebuild just for fun. Something like 360 ft pounds torque.

 

Yes that just about covers it, dang it. Thanks JL...we will see.

[Ceptorman]

7 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

If all you want to do is clear codes you can do a capacitive discharge.  Remove BOTH cables from the battery and hold the cable ends together for maybe 15 seconds while making sure you're not touching a battery terminal.  This will discharge all capacitors in every module that are used for module memory.

Interesting....

[Marvel]

7 hours ago, dtel said:

It does take a little use for the computer to reset after you do that but it does it as you drive.  

 

I replaced the battery in my Subaru and it to almost a month of driving before it got back to normal. Idled too low to keep running... what a pita.

[dtel]

Sometimes it's better to disconnect the battery again, I had the same thing happen with a jeep.

[windashine]

…. if the end result, is to switch this engine into another vehicle after being able to see if it will run.... can you mention if this experiment is going to be built into a "hot rod" per say, like a 50's pickup ?

Just asking that, because the ecm will have to go in there too, and the safest way is to pull your ecm out and send it to a performance shop, and have them delete (reflash) all the functions that won't be swapped out or used again....  If you look at everything this ecm does, it is a decent computer, and it will be looking for every sensor that used to be in the wrecked truck.  Especially the codes you mention to start out with, like, if those area's in the truck aren't repaired, then boom, they'll come right back.

 

http://www.pcmofnc.com/product/hot-rod-start-up-tune/

[JL Sargent]

10 hours ago, billybob said:

Something like 360 ft pounds torque.

With the right mild cam, headers, performance valve springs, and a good tune I think you can get 420 HP no problem and it will also sound way better! For the record though, I installed hypereutectic pistons in mine too. No matter what choices you make, there will be a compromise somewhere, I get about 14 miles to the gallon.

With those Hyper pistons, you could add 100hp of juice (no higher or pistons will pop) and that will get you north of 500 hp easy. Any higher and you're looking at spending some money with forged pistons, super chargers or turbos.

 

 

[JJkizak]

OK, what's a hypereutectic piston?

JJK

[USNRET]

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/narrowing-your-piston-choices/

 

[JJkizak]

45 minutes ago, USNRET said:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/narrowing-your-piston-choices/

 

 

Nice article.

JJK

[billybob]

6 hours ago, windashine said:

…. if the end result, is to switch this engine into another vehicle after being able to see if it will run.... can you mention if this experiment is going to be built into a "hot rod" per say, like a 50's pickup ?

Just asking that, because the ecm will have to go in there too, and the safest way is to pull your ecm out and send it to a performance shop, and have them delete (reflash) all the functions that won't be swapped out or used again....  If you look at everything this ecm does, it is a decent computer, and it will be looking for every sensor that used to be in the wrecked truck.  Especially the codes you mention to start out with, like, if those area's in the truck aren't repaired, then boom, they'll come right back.

 

http://www.pcmofnc.com/product/hot-rod-start-up-tune/

Yes was somewhat familiar with that flash thing. And yes in an older truck, ratrod. If we can delete the codes, including any VAT code along with it of course, looking for the other codes to come back. By what am finding out here about the version of engine, young guy may want to rethink the idea. Thanks for the info. It is helpful, as all info here is.

 

6 hours ago, JL Sargent said:

With the right mild cam, headers, performance valve springs, and a good tune I think you can get 420 HP no problem and it will also sound way better! For the record though, I installed hypereutectic pistons in mine too. No matter what choices you make, there will be a compromise somewhere, I get about 14 miles to the gallon.

With those Hyper pistons, you could add 100hp of juice (no higher or pistons will pop) and that will get you north of 500 hp easy. Any higher and you're looking at spending some money with forged pistons, super chargers or turbos.

 

 

All good info to have JL...thanks some more. And to all so far...thanks!

[tigerwoodKhorns]

Original topic

 

I need to clear a code on a diesel that was just snogged on a dyno.  The computer did not like the rear tires moving while the front remained stationary. 

 

Scanners have gotten really cheap.  Any recommendations?  I'd rather just do it right rather than try to reset with the battery and have it run bad for a while.