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Super Heresy 2.0 (Baby Cornwall II mod.)


ClaudeJ1

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7 hours ago, Gorquin said:

Dave A,

 

Both of my cabinets, which have sequential serial numbers, have extra holes as well.

One cab has 5 small holes and the other 6.

 

For what it's worth the soldering on the choke and lugs looks original unless of course the entire setup was replaced years ago. The guy I bought the speakers from said he was the original owner and purchased them new.

 

Perhaps Klipsch was experimenting with mods at the time of production?  I'll leave it to those more knowledgeable to sort it out but if you need more pics let me know.

Anything is possible. Some sources for information lack credibility at times and so I look for verification. I have an experimental Heresy 3 crossover given to Kirby by Roy and subsequently given to me by Kirby that never made it into production and it looks nothing like the production ones I have seen.

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After testing the cabs with a meter and finding nothing wrong with one of them I connected it to my guitar amp to see if I noticed anything off. Other than not sounding very good feeding an ipod into a guitar amp it seemed fine.

 

I have a pair of early 80's Dayton Wright LCM1's in the LR so I removed one and connected the Heresy 1 to the system which for now consists of a Kenwood Basic M1A and Basic C2 Preamp. The tone controls were switched to bypass.

Not a fair comparison since the LCM1 has, I believe, a 6" woofer and a tweeter. I purchased them new and they haven't been abused.

 

The Heresy 1 as a 3-way was noticeably better all around except for tweeter balance. I liked the Heresy and would be curious to see how one would lower the level of the tweeter without changing the frequency characteristics.

 

I don't want to kill the top end...I want to lower the level a bit.

 

I'm also curious if anyone has frequency graphs with crossover points on the Heresy 1 and Super Heresy?

 

On the up side, if I'm careful I may be able to save the tweeter in the other cabinet. I took it apart and I can get my meter to read 6.5 ohms on the tips of the coil wires. I believe that either the wire was broken inside the lug, the wire wasn't soldered properly or didn't take because the varnish on the wire wasn't stripped back enough and it may have been intermittent. I carefully scrapped away a bit of varnish to get the reading but I'll need more length to solder it back in place.

 

I'd like to save the tweeter if I can. Any tips on a better way to remove the varnish from the coil ends?

 

Thanks !!

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7 minutes ago, Gorquin said:

I'm also curious if anyone has frequency graphs with crossover points on the Heresy 1 and Super Heresy?

I put all kinds of curves out there. Go find them.

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23 hours ago, Gorquin said:

I picked the cabinets up today. The veneer has some poor spots but the structure of the cabs is solid.

I will most likely repair the missing veneer areas and paint the cabs so the wife is happy.

 

One of the K77 and one K22 are fried.

 

They have "N" S/N's so if I read the chart correctly they are from 1975 and the owner says he hasn't used them since 1979.

 

But, look at the caps !! Are those original ?

Heresy2.jpg

 

i also have 1975 heresys and the crossover looked exactly like that -- the soldering and installation was perfect, but i hadn't seen that before.  i assumed someone changed out the original capacitors -- like yours, there were additional holes in the board and the autoformer wasn't in the "normal" location.  my drivers are also the same.

 

for better or whose, i went ahead and changed the capacitors -- got them from @JEM Performance since they're "authorized" klipsch parts.

 

knowing what i know now, probably could have left well enough alone . . . .

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5 hours ago, Gorquin said:

I liked the Heresy and would be curious to see how one would lower the level of the tweeter without changing the frequency characteristics.

 

I don't want to kill the top end...I want to lower the level a bit.

Just use the Super Heresy woofer without changing the Crossover. It will bring up the midbass by 3 db and leave the rest alone. Simple.

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That's certainly an option ClaudeJ1.

 

One K22 is shot.

 

I did manage to save the K77. I was getting fluctuating readings so I decided to take it apart. I cleaned it, stripped back the protective coating on the wires with an Xacto knife and acetone and soldered the connections. I'm not sure if one wire broke as it was shorter than the other or if the original solder job didn't take. But..it works now.

 

I had an Eminence Beta 12LTA here so I stuck that in to run the Heresy. Not ideal, but it serves the purpose for now. I figured I'd let the cabinet run for an hour or so to make sure the K77 was OK. So far so good! I'll let it run more tomorrow.

 

I couldn't find a frequency response curve for the K22 but I took a look at the Kappalite and the Pro-12A graphs. You're right, they both pump the mids and the Neo more so.

 

 

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On 5/22/2022 at 8:05 PM, ClaudeJ1 said:

If they are building their own enclosures, then they are not Klipsch Heresys. Super Heresy is a MODIFICATION I created and shared here for all my fellow DIY guys. It is not a Klipsch Product. However I was able to use as many Klipsch parts as possible with the Mod. If someone is building new cabs, then there are better/bigger cabs you can build that will outperform a Heresy or a Super Heresy Mod. with the same floor footprint. I'm working on one now.

@ClaudeJ1 Did you look at the Tangents for some inspiration for your new project?  IIRC, the Tangent 400 is an H2 in a bigger, flimsier box.  I’ve often wondered about what the Tangent components would sound like in a sturdy cabinet with the same basic layout.

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001… Can you clarify what makes the T5000 cabinet better than a T400 cabinet?

-T5000 = Heresy II components with a front facing KD13 drone below the woofer

-T400 = Heresy II components with two front facing ports below the woofer

 

The T5000 is taller, but appears to be made of the same vinyl clad particle board as the T400.  I am uncertain about motor boards or bracing.  
 

I would think a better motor board would make for a better cabinet.

 

On the other hand, an extra glued in brace or two wouldn’t be enough of an improvement to make the cabinet better enough to mention.

 

As far as I can tell, it’s not like the T5000 is Baltic birch and the T400 is sawdust.

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16 hours ago, Outrider 6 said:

@ClaudeJ1 Did you look at the Tangents for some inspiration for your new project?  IIRC, the Tangent 400 is an H2 in a bigger, flimsier box.  I’ve often wondered about what the Tangent components would sound like in a sturdy cabinet with the same basic layout.

No. I prefer to do my own designs from scratch.

 

 

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On 5/26/2022 at 10:19 PM, 001 said:

20 lbs heavier , MDF vs OSB

 

T 400 is 45 pounds per speaker and the T5000 weighs 65 pounds each.  (T4000 is 60 pounds.  T500 is 50 pounds and it’s woofer has a 30 oz magnet as opposed to the 20 oz magnet in the T400.)

 

Based on the sales lit for the thousand series (theater series), the weight difference between generations seems tied to video shielding not present in the hundred series.  No mention made of cabinet material in either brochure, but the framing around the motorboards looks the same in all of them.

 

The reason I suggested these as a model to Claude is that somebody at Klipsch tuned these boxes to get slightly more sensitivity and slightly deeper bass by increasing the volume of the box and adding either ports (T400/4000) or a drone (T500/T5000).  I am merely speculating that better cabinetry could make a further incremental improvement.  As a novice, I would probably start here—even if only to ditch the cheap woodwork on my thrift shop find Tangents.

 

I appreciate Claude’s answer about preferring to work his own designs.  Hat’s off to him and his work.

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10 hours ago, Outrider 6 said:

T 400 is 45 pounds per speaker and the T5000 weighs 65 pounds each.  (T4000 is 60 pounds.). Based on the sales lit for the thousand series (theater series), the weight difference seems tied to video shielding not present in the hundred series.  No mention made of cabinet material in either brochure, but the framing around the motorboards looks the same in all of them.

 

 

Hello, think you will find most weight difference between 4s and 5s series from the PR versus the ported. Thanks!

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