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Super Heresy 2.0 (Baby Cornwall II mod.)


ClaudeJ1

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1 hour ago, Jay Grantland said:

I replaced them with the Kappalites cut new backs and added the port it was a huge improvement. If you are on the fence like I was just do it. 

Since the Box has been a fixed size, it was imperative that we use the correct woofer and port size for the box.

 

The name "SUPER Heresy" was derived from the fact that I replaced the Super TWEETER, while still using a Klipsch K42 in the original, now owned by Jim Jimbo.

 

Did you replace the Super Tweeter or just the woofer and port?

 

How do they SOUND. Enquiring minds want to know!!

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5 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

The name "SUPER Heresy" was derived from the fact that I replaced the Super TWEETER, while still using a Klipsch K42 in the original, now owned by JimJimbo.

And the fact that it has a K55V solder lug, custom crossover, ported rear panel.......everything works together beautifully.  

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41 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:

Perhaps it was you, or maybe me.......It was a while ago......either way, they are still terrific.  The imaging is crazy good.

Inherently, being the smallest of the PWK Heritage speakers (whose popularity ended up creating over 50% of gross sales (and saving the company from bankruptcy in the 60's) They are also the most Phase Coherent of the old line, something PWK did not believe in much, if at all.

 

I'm pretty sure that's why they "image" so well. Something PWK called "perspective geometry."

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What is the current recommendation for mods to the type E crossover?

 

I was under the impression that the stock components in the H1 already had the mid and tweeter running around 3dB hotter than the woofer.

iirc I have mine stepped down one position on the autoformer with a swamping resistor across the mid as discussed by JohnA and DJK some years back.

I would probably have to open them up to verify what I actually did as it’s been a decade.

 

However, I’m definitely thinking about the super Heresy conversion on these.

I currently have some of the original run of Crites CT-125 tweeters in them but I’m considering swapping in one of the eminence horns as they are cheap and I think (subjective I know) the apt-150 horn sounds a little better.

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1 hour ago, Invidiosulus said:

What is the current recommendation for mods to the type E crossover?

 

I was under the impression that the stock components in the H1 already had the mid and tweeter running around 3dB hotter than the woofer.

iirc I have mine stepped down one position on the autoformer with a swamping resistor across the mid as discussed by JohnA and DJK some years back.

I would probably have to open them up to verify what I actually did as it’s been a decade.

 

However, I’m definitely thinking about the super Heresy conversion on these.

I currently have some of the original run of Crites CT-125 tweeters in them but I’m considering swapping in one of the eminence horns as they are cheap and I think (subjective I know) the apt-150 horn sounds a little better.

I did curves on the CT-125 tweeter I got used from another member as an upgrade for an old pair of LaScalas about 14 years ago. It's pretty darn flat to 20 Khz. so I would not bother replacing it with anything because it's far superior to what it replaced already.

 

A would HIGHLY recommend that you simply add the port and do a Woofer Swap ONLY. Only do a Capacitor Refresh on your E network. I'm confident that you will probably just stop there, like FIDO did when I told him to try that FIRST instead of following my Recipe from the getgo.

 

Since you already feel that the top end of a Heresy is already to "hot," you will, more than likely, be happier with the resultant "house curve" where only the woofer section is up by +3 db and not the horns.

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40 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

I did curves on the CT-125 tweeter I got used from another member as an upgrade for an old pair of LaScalas about 14 years ago. It's pretty darn flat to 20 Khz. so I would not bother replacing it with anything because it's far superior to what it replaced already.

 

A would HIGHLY recommend that you simply add the port and do a Woofer Swap ONLY. Only do a Capacitor Refresh on your E network. I'm confident that you will probably just stop there, like FIDO did when I told him to try that FIRST instead of following my Recipe from the getgo.

 

Since you already feel that the top end of a Heresy is already to "hot," you will, more than likely, be happier with the resultant "house curve" where only the woofer section is up by +3 db and not the horns.

Yes I followed Claude’s advice and my Super Heresys sounded fantastic. The person I sold them to had a lot of heresy speakers in the past and said that my pair was the best he had ever heard, by far.

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58 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

I did curves on the CT-125 tweeter I got used from another member as an upgrade for an old pair of LaScalas about 14 years ago. It's pretty darn flat to 20 Khz. so I would not bother replacing it with anything because it's far superior to what it replaced already.

 

A would HIGHLY recommend that you simply add the port and do a Woofer Swap ONLY. Only do a Capacitor Refresh on your E network. I'm confident that you will probably just stop there, like FIDO did when I told him to try that FIRST instead of following my Recipe from the getgo.

 

Since you already feel that the top end of a Heresy is already to "hot," you will, more than likely, be happier with the resultant "house curve" where only the woofer section is up by +3 db and not the horns.

In my original apartment I had the H1’s on the floor and back in the corners, concrete block walls and poured concrete floor.

Lots of bass reinforcement from their placement.

I preferred the lowered mid and tweeter after I built some matching cabinet stands for them to sit on which placed them a few feet off the ground.


I think I’ve got some decentish dayton caps in the Type E’s already.


The APT-150 horn is only about $11 at usspeaker.

Ive already got the APT-150 in the LS, purchased back when the Eminence APT driver was what Bob was using for the CT-125.

Eminence also makes a little bi-radial horn for the APT drivers that looks nice but I don’t think it would fit on the H1 motorboard.

 

Anyway, I’ve got time to think about it.

 

 

thanks,

Josh

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11 minutes ago, Invidiosulus said:

In my original apartment I had the H1’s on the floor and back in the corners, concrete block walls and poured concrete floor.

Lots of bass reinforcement from their placement.

I preferred the lowered mid and tweeter after I built some matching cabinet stands for them to sit on which placed them a few feet off the ground.


I think I’ve got some decentish dayton caps in the Type E’s already.

 

you can always buy the CT125 lens by itself , thatt would be a bit more money , but the fit would be the same as the K77 tweeter lens

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3 minutes ago, RandyH001 said:

you can always buy the CT125 lens by itself , thatt would be a bit more money , but the fit would be the same as the K77 tweeter lens

I’ve already got the CT-125, I think the APT-150 lens sounds a little better.


Im also not averse to chopping a larger hole in the motorboard and the top end would be voiced the same as my LS.

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12 minutes ago, Invidiosulus said:

I’ve already got the CT-125, I think the APT-150 lens sounds a little better.


Im also not averse to chopping a larger hole in the motorboard and the top end would be voiced the same as my LS.

before you chop a hole , test the CT125 lens flush with the motorboard , versus behind the motorboard

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4 hours ago, Invidiosulus said:

They have been since March of 2006.

wow , so you're sayin the APT150  is even better , ok ,  so  to fit the APT 150 lens , on that motorboard , you would need to lower the mids horn ala  Heresy II  ,

 

 

 

 

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37 minutes ago, RandyH001 said:

wow , so you're sayin the APT150  is even better , ok ,  so  to fit the APT 150 lens , on that motorboard , you would need to lower the mids horn ala  Heresy II  ,

 

image.jpeg.ef00a034e9537171b228172fe1f8fb96.jpeg

 

 

Yeah, it would be a really tight fit. 
I need to get dinner in the oven and draw something up.

An entirely new motorboard might be in order.

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I am not convinced the APT150 is that much (if any) of an upgrade. If you're cheap, keep your cash and use the CT125. I've used both and think it is a coin toss.

Also if you're cheap, the Eminence Delta 12LFA is a solid choice and would save you $180 for the pair. I have not heard the Kappalites to do a direct comparison, but have used the LFA several times and the results were very nice IMHO. Not quite as efficient but dig a little deeper per the spec sheet.

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29 minutes ago, MookieStl said:

I am not convinced the APT150 is that much (if any) of an upgrade. If you're cheap, keep your cash and use the CT125. I've used both and think it is a coin toss.

Also if you're cheap, the Eminence Delta 12LFA is a solid choice and would save you $180 for the pair. I have not heard the Kappalites to do a direct comparison, but have used the LFA several times and the results were very nice IMHO. Not quite as efficient but dig a little deeper per the spec sheet.

I’m cheap, not completely broke.


I currently own both.

 

They were the exact same driver but I thought the CD horn on the APT-150 sounded better and provided a wider sweet spot.

 

I guess I’ll just have to A/B them again on the LS before I spend $22 to get the APT-150 lenses for the Heresy.

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