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Veneer maintenance for my Khorns


ryanm84

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I bought my pair in October 2016 and they are from 1990. Nothing has been done to them by me or previous owners (the woofer trap doors are still sealed from the factory). But the veneer needed a little attention. 

What I normally see:

705_BD331-1382-469_F-_B5_E2-41297249_F4_

 

5189_DA89-7756-430_D-9474-3_E9_BDBD66_F3

 

what I got for about a week due to drying oil and a few days of travel for work:

 

71_BA632_C-07_CA-46_F0-8_A03-3466_C0_CCA

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I bought my pair in October 2016 and they are from 1990. Nothing has been done to them by me or previous owners (the woofer trap doors are still sealed from the factory). But the veneer needed a little attention. 
What I normally see:
705_BD331-1382-469_F-_B5_E2-41297249_F4_F2.jpg
 
5189_DA89-7756-430_D-9474-3_E9_BDBD66_F36.jpg
 
what I got for about a week due to drying oil and a few days of travel for work:
 
71_BA632_C-07_CA-46_F0-8_A03-3466_C0_CCA51_D.jpg

Those babies need corners.
Drawings for false corners in Dope From Hope papers.


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Took the top hats off and removed the grilles (sides and top) so I could oil everything. Used Watco natural oil and a cheap foam brush to flooded all the surfaces. After letting them set for a bit I used a microfiber towel to remove excess. They are hanging out in the garage drying. I am so glad I got the set I got - walnut and cane go well together and the wood is just great with a fresh oil. 

 

B2_E3_DFD5-_E80_A-4_CA2-9_AEB-35_F952198

 

C5_EDE4_DC-1897-456_F-_A99_D-41309_C1418

 

D589_D2_AE-4_A68-4663-93_E5-6_B6_F4_B12_

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I used to use lemon oil on my horns because that's what the original owners used for 48 years, but it seemed the shine only lasted about a week or two.  Switched to Howard Feed-N-Wax.  Shine lasts much longer now.

 

You might want to use Howard Restor-A-Finish first like they recommend.  I haven't tried it.

 

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I think you should put them in the corners you got. The way you got them sitting blocks half of the output of the bass bin can't be good. Looks like you got corners there to use. Use pipe foam to seal vertical back and horizontal parts of bass bin you will be impressed with the sound improvement. 

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While it's beyond the scope of this thread, I really can not see how OP is supposed to "clock the speakers into the corners".  Doing so would require him to have the speaker that would splay outwards pointing away from the main LP.

 

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Post pictures when you begin the top coat proceedure... I am interested.

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I would think that lacquer is not compatible with oil finishes.   I'm sure you'll check the label and the Internet.  Start with an inconspicuous spot as everyone says.

 

Are you using Deft, or a rattle can, or professional sprayer for lacquer?  Just out of curiosity.

 

OTOH I always recommend wipe-on varnishes.  There is plenty on the Internet about it.  

 

Everyone here has heard my recipe.  Wipe on, remove any excess, let dry over night. Scuff lightly with no-scratch Scotchbrite.  Bat off the dust.  Wipe on another thin coat, remove excess, let dry over night. Repeat for four days.  After a week you can put on some Butcher's wax

 

You're really investing about one hour a night and four hours total.   You'll get a marvelous finish you can't get in one four-hour set of work. You'll see many variations on this.  But it all comes down to thin coats and patience.

 

WMcD

 

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I’ve used lacquer on some hallway tables I built from walnut plywood and solid walnut. I didn’t notice any issues with applying lacquer over the top of them with a Watco oil finish (no wood stain) Forget what brand I used but it’s brush on which had me worried when I first used it. But following the instructions on how soon to reapply a second coat and the sanding done before the third gave great results. 

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On 10/9/2018 at 6:13 PM, WMcD said:

I would think that lacquer is not compatible with oil finishes.   I'm sure you'll check the label and the Internet.  Start with an inconspicuous spot as everyone says.

 

Are you using Deft, or a rattle can, or professional sprayer for lacquer?  Just out of curiosity.

 

OTOH I always recommend wipe-on varnishes.  There is plenty on the Internet about it.  

 

Everyone here has heard my recipe.  Wipe on, remove any excess, let dry over night. Scuff lightly with no-scratch Scotchbrite.  Bat off the dust.  Wipe on another thin coat, remove excess, let dry over night. Repeat for four days.  After a week you can put on some Butcher's wax

 

You're really investing about one hour a night and four hours total.   You'll get a marvelous finish you can't get in one four-hour set of work. You'll see many variations on this.  But it all comes down to thin coats and patience.

 

WMcD

 

I have no issues with applying a top coat as I really think the right one really improves the look of wood and more importantly, helps keep it from drying out, maintains the color finish and makes ongoing maintenance a little easier. 

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Probably hard to see but the work is done. Oiled and lacquered and back in their original positions. Heavy and awkward to move but fun to take them apart and see how they were constructed. Makes one think they could build a pair, maybe. 

 

1390105-E-32-D2-4831-98-B0-21409-F80-D47

 

 

75-EE640-A-6-B51-4228-AAAD-BB41-DFD33137

 

BD219-B1-C-4641-4-F92-9-C09-1-C62-C547-A

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