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Help modifying AA crossover to work with Volti Upgrade


Godataloss

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I recently purchased a Volti mid-horn and tweeter package from a forum member.  He did not wish to sell the tweeters so I have been running them in my Khorns with the stock AA crossover and trying to tame the more efficient 16 ohm BMS 4592nd driver with DSP.  It's less than ideal obviously. I just slapped $5k worth of braces on my kid so money is kind of tight at the moment with the holidays approaching, so I would like to modify my existing crossovers which would likely benefit from a recap anyway.  Any guidance on the process would be much appreciated.  

 

Thanks in advance.

khorns b.jpg

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You didn't sell the speakers to cover the braces for your child AND you slapped them on?

 

I think those speakers are beautiful and I love the grain....  I think you should sell them to cover the braces.

 

I can be there within 48 hours and will bring the $500 in cash....mmmmmmkay??

 

 

As to your bona-fide questions, I haven't a clue....I'm still slobbering over the wood grain.

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and stop hiding the front of the speaker with your LP crate!!!

 

If you're going to have something worthy of showing off, show them off!!  (much like your childs teeth after you've put thousands into them....what if the child never smiles??? )

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I can't sell them.  I convinced my wife they would keep me from buying anymore speakers.  Then I promptly forked over an almost equal amount of dough on the Volti hardware.  Now I am ashamed to tell her I have to lay out some more for crossovers, lol.  I'd rather splurge on quality caps and build them myself than pay for an off the shelf xover.

 

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You could try these

 

https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-50w-mono-3-8-shaft-16-ohm--260-254

 

between the squawker output of the crossover and the BMS driver.

 

You are going to need around 12-14 db attenuation, and they don't specify the maximum attenuation of the l-pad.  

 

Are you using the K-77 tweeter?

 

Gorgeous speakers!

 

Mike

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You can also do the following:

 

You can hack this out, or invest in it with better parts. If you like what you hear, you can build a nice pair from scratch. 

 

Buy a pair of 1.5uF capacitors. These will replace the existing 13uF capacitors on your AAs. 

 

1. Replace the 13uF capacitors with the 1.5’s. 

 

2. Move the wire for the squawker from tap 4 to tap 1.  

 

3. Move the tweeter circuit from tap 5, to input positive. 

 

This will give you 12dB of attenuation on the midrange without shifting the crossover point. 

 

If the Beyma sounds spitty or too hot, you will need a fixed Or variable L-pad. However, you might get lucky and not have to do anything. 

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You could contact Volti to get his design.

 

I would build the squawker section of Al K's universal crossover and then you can move the squawker taps all over to experiment with level.  It looks like the BMS will run out to 12k, so you will want the .3 mH/2.2 uF low pass in Al's circuit.  Run the normal Type AA tweeter filter.  Al might stroke at this suggestion because all of his values are tuned to provide flat impedance and hopefully low phase error, but do it anyway. 

 

Buy the best film and foil caps you are willing to afford.  Solens, and similar are acceptable and cheap. 

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/crossover-capacitors/292

 

 

 

SCHEM V5.GIF

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23 hours ago, Deang said:

You can modify a Type AA to work with that set up. 

 

1 hour ago, mboxler said:

You could try these

 

https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-50w-mono-3-8-shaft-16-ohm--260-254

 

between the squawker output of the crossover and the BMS driver.

 

You are going to need around 12-14 db attenuation, and they don't specify the maximum attenuation of the l-pad.  

 

Are you using the K-77 tweeter?

 

Gorgeous speakers!

 

Mike

 

Thank you.  No, Beyma CP 25 tweeters came with the package.  Will the resistor adversely affect the overall sensitivity of the system?  I'm using a two watt amp at the moment.

  

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49 minutes ago, Deang said:

Greg has two designs. A weird looking budget version of the Universal which he is probably charging too much for, and a modified DHA1 with a 2nd order tweeter filter - which he is also charging too much for. 

 

I did forget about the band pass. Follow my instructions, but add a .4mH coil between squawker positive and tap 1. Sorry, it’s been a while. 

 

 

I feel much the same.  I bought the package used after all.  I don't begrudge him a living and I'm sure his economy crossovers are fine, but I'd rather modify what I have or buy something killer used.  I truly appreciate the help.  Sorry I'm not more active in the thread right now, but I'm neck deep in a sixth grade cell wall model project.  The crossovers should be a piece of cake after this.

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You don't need the KLiP diodes with a square magnet K-77-M.  And they chop off the input at about 2 watts, so defeating them will sound better. 

 

L-pads or resistors will not change the OVERALL system efficiency.

 

Since you are running low output tube amps, Al's design will be better because it has a flatter impedance curve.

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3 hours ago, JohnA said:

 

 

You don't need the KLiP diodes with a square magnet K-77-M.  And they chop off the input at about 2 watts, so defeating them will sound better. 

 

L-pads or resistors will not change the OVERALL system efficiency.

 

Since you are running low output tube amps, Al's design will be better because it has a flatter impedance curve.

I'm not running the K-77.  The Volti's came with Beyma CP 25's which seem much, much better than the K-77 to my ears.  

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1 hour ago, muel said:

Those Beyma's need to be cut about 3db as well in my experience.

I run mine at -3db as well. At conversation levels -0 is fine, but they get a little harsh after you add some throttle.  I think -1 to -2db would be to my liking, but my transformers start at -3db.

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21 minutes ago, muel said:

You have an incredible set of drivers there!  It's worth getting the crossover right!

You will have speakers that sound like about $25,750.

That setup will be a game changer.  Just the mid horns alone, even with stock drivers change the whole playing field.

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