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Our op still never stated how old these speakers are. I've read and reread but the only member that stated year was Gary rc with his 2005 Khorns. As far as the silver and gold Mundorf, that price of $762.10 was for 4 different value 2 percent caps. It shows 4 in the pics but doesn't say it's for 4. That was madisound. So yes Deang, their price each ranges from $125.00 to $250.00 depending on value of cap. Still a lot, but if you want a no compromise crossover, that would be the ticket. Our op has a set of speakers around 1995 vintage. almost 24 years old, so I'd say what the heck at least swap out the caps, and any fuses. The fuses and their connection can cause more trouble than the caps. But if you can operate a solder iron/gun go for it. Parts wise for some new 5 percent caps is under $30.00, unless you go crazy and want to put in the esoteric stuff. Not necessary on a speaker at your price point.

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I’ve never tried the S/G/O. Just could never bring myself to spending that much on a metalized capacitor. 

 

Its hard for me to rate anything, because it’s so closely tied to subjective preference. I do know I prefer film and foil, and that the Theta presents the best value in that category. 

 

The resistors are Mills. 

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2 hours ago, wvu80 said:

Maybe list some caps in rank order from best to worst, or assign a relative value.  For instance a Mundorf at 8.5 might be above a Dayton Audio at 8.2, but only a little bit.  That would help those of us without your experience to figure out our cost to performance value.

 

wvu80, this list will be of interest  http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html  it is eurocentric  as it does not include some of the cheaper brands such as Dayton, but his rating of the more esoteric caps seems to match some of the views expressed here - eg Jupiter beeswax - and being external it shouldn't start a slanging match.

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Capacitors are like anything in your system. It is subjective. One guy will say I love the sound of Klipsch cornerhorns, another guys in the same room, sitting right next to the other guy and says their too loud, too strong. Second guy likes a softer sound, like maybe a soft dome mid-range/tweeter combo. Caps and coils are subtle, but also can be a big jump in transparency, separation, realistic sound change. I had kef 102 monitors years back, and despite what everyone said was great, I didn't like em. We had a store back in the 90's here in San Francisco called just speakers. Well I told them I wanted a much better sound. Gutted the kef driver's put in Dynaudio 17w75 woofs, m.b Quart tweeter, and built new crossovers 1 percent caps, air core inductors. Huge difference. Should have built with higher x over point though. I used 2.5 k, should have done 3.5-4k, but still sounded amazing. I ran 2 m&k 200wpc subs, and Yamaha separates. Better electronics would have been better still. Bottom line, it's gotta sound right to you, and sound right 2 weeks later. Too many systems sound good in the store, but wear on you 2 days later. Anyhoo that's my story, and Im sticking with it!

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I have a not detected a loss of output in anything less than 30 years old.  Even then, I was surprised by a pair of 1968 H700s that did not need new caps.  Listen.  if the sound is not out in the room with you, they probably need new caps.  Klipsch should not sound recessed or dull. 

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On 10/22/2018 at 7:33 PM, Moosee1955 said:

Our op still never stated how old these speakers are. .

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My CF-3's are serial #'s   241599265   &   241599266, I assume they are the 241 week of 1995, correct? Making them version 3?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm right in it with you on a set of CF-2s right now. It's likely that you will hear a difference after replacing the now 23 year old electrolytic bipolar caps with... anything really.  I was not ready to hear as much difference as I did after putting film caps in one KG 2.5 a few years back. Changing the rest of the film caps just sweetened up the sound a bit. But the electrolytics... wow. 

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