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Delicious2

K402 TAD4002 and Peavey FH1 active blend

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I use 1/4" studs with nuts, which screw into the TAD throat adapter/expander (1.5" to 2" throat).  These aren't metric.  The TADs were apparently made in the US, and use US-based threads (note the metric dimensions on the drawing, but Imperial unit on the mounting threads):

 

fcbc2480f6dc84f2991b937db6f2cad8.gif?v=1

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I'm using 1.25" length but they could be longer if threaded into the TAD bracket farther.

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On 10/28/2018 at 12:13 AM, Delicious2 said:

so I'll enjoy comparing them to the JubeKhorns in the living room first 

Just to set the record as straight as I know how. What makes a speaker a "JUBE" is the bass bin and NOT the K-402. This, in accordance with first hand listening to Roy Delgado, Klipsch Chief Engineer who designed both the Jubilee Bass bin AND the K-402. So a JubeScala and a JubeKhorn, are both seemingly popular misnomers that have been propagated to near myth levels on this forum.

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@Delicious2 When i changed out the K-691 for Tads on my Jubs the head of the machine screw ended up on the Tad flange and the nuts and washers are on the K402 horn. And it is a tight fit. I can't remember how the 691s were mounted. Probably the same way otherwise I would not have thought to do it that way.

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3 minutes ago, babadono said:

@Delicious2 When i changed out the K-691 for Tads on my Jubs the head of the machine screw ended up on the Tad flange and the nuts and washers are on the K402 horn. And it is a tight fit. I can't remember how the 691s were mounted. Probably the same way otherwise I would not have thought to do it that way.

Thanks babadono.  My TAD "snout" flange is threaded and has a stop on the driver side so I can only screw in a bolt or stud from the horn side and anything screwed in from that side will only go so far - flush with the flange.  So, I'm not really picturing what you're describing  where the head of a machine screw would be on the TAD flange side as nothing could be put through that hole unless it were very much smaller in diameter than the 1/4" threads.  My 691s were mounted with studs sticking out and washers/nuts on the horn side.

 

Local HD/Lowes hardware stores don't seem to stock threaded studs of various sizes, just threaded rod of 6" or more.  Maybe they'll cut it down to 1.25" studs for me.  Problem with that is the cuts may not be clean for threading.  Tap and die set anyone?

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7 minutes ago, Delicious2 said:

Local HD/Lowes hardware stores don't seem to stock threaded studs of various sizes, just threaded rod of 6" or more.  Maybe they'll cut it down to 1.25" studs for me.  Problem with that is the cuts may not be clean for threading.  Tap and die set anyone?

 

Check an auto supply store, they have double ended studs, 1/4-20 on one end, 1/4-28 on the other - 1.25 in length - just use a fine thread nut on the 1/4-28 side...

if you get the all thread rod, it's easy to trim, just need a vise and a hack saw, screw a nut on the shaft to hold it in the vise, and a quick file to clean up. finally screw the nut off and clean the threads as you observe your handy work !

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13 minutes ago, Delicious2 said:

Thanks babadono.  My TAD "snout" flange is threaded and has a stop on the driver side so I can only screw in a bolt or stud from the horn side and anything screwed in from that side will only go so far - flush with the flange.  So, I'm not really picturing what you're describing  where the head of a machine screw would be on the TAD flange side as nothing could be put through that hole unless it were very much smaller in diameter than the 1/4" threads.  My 691s were mounted with studs sticking out and washers/nuts on the horn side.

 

Local HD/Lowes hardware stores don't seem to stock threaded studs of various sizes, just threaded rod of 6" or more.  Maybe they'll cut it down to 1.25" studs for me.  Problem with that is the cuts may not be clean for threading.  Tap and die set anyone?

I'll snap a photo tonight. Maybe I'm remembering incorrectly. But I do remember it was harder than it should have been.

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One looks cleaner than the other:) What's up with that @mikebse2a3

So the allen set screws go through the 4002 flange or bottom out into them?

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44 minutes ago, babadono said:

One looks cleaner than the other:) What's up with that @mikebse2a3

So the allen set screws go through the 4002 flange or bottom out into them?

 

Taken at different times and I'm not saying which was just taken... :D  

 

They bottom out in the TAD 4002 flange unless someone has forced them past the designed stop.

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Some pix from last night. I bought these things used. Either the previous owner or I tapped through the flange because my bolts go all the way through. They are tapped holes that's why there are washers and lock washers on the head side as well as the nut side.

P1010353.jpg

P1010354.jpg

P1010352.jpg

P1010351.jpg

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23 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

Just to set the record as straight as I know how. What makes a speaker a "JUBE" is the bass bin and NOT the K-402. This, in accordance with first hand listening to Roy Delgado, Klipsch Chief Engineer who designed both the Jubilee Bass bin AND the K-402. So a JubeScala and a JubeKhorn, are both seemingly popular misnomers that have been propagated to near myth levels on this forum.

 

Thanks for this clarification ClaudeJ1.   I think I'll stop using those names just out of respect for the designer.

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Well...I've heard Roy use the term (JubScala) firsthand, so I wouldn't be too worried.  The idea is that the K-402 or K-510 is on top of another bass bin.  I believe that it's the K-402 horn that disproportionately contributes to the Jubilee's sound quality.  YMMV.

 

Chris

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22 hours ago, Chris A said:

Well...I've heard Roy use the term (JubScala) firsthand, so I wouldn't be too worried.  The idea is that the K-402 or K-510 is on top of another bass bin.  I believe that it's the K-402 horn that disproportionately contributes to the Jubilee's sound quality.  YMMV.

 

Chris

Well, it wasn't mean to be the 11th commandment either way, but, technically speaking, the term Jubilee applies PRIMARILY to the bass bin, regardless of what horn is on top. 503 at PWK's house, a wood version at the 1999 demo at Ceasar's palace in vegas, then the K510 to the one given away in a drawing at the Indy Pilgrimage in 2007 (I attended all of these), and, as best performer, the K-402 in both 2 and 3-way configurations. The TERM "Jubilee" applies to the fact that it took 50 years for PWK and Roy to design a better bass horn than the Khorn, which is why the TERM was coined and it was going to be called the "Klipschorn Jubilee" had it made it into dealer stores instead of back door deals via the Theater Dealers. So applying the term Jubilee to whatever bass section a K-402 is resting on, with any number of non-Klipsch drivers bolted in, is a total misnomer, technically and practically speaking.

 

Also, there are 2 pairs of "Golden Jubilees" commissioned by Valerie Klipsch and built by a Klipsch cabinet maker back in the early 2000's from Paul's Blueprints. They don't have a specific treble horn sited. As a matter of fact, one pair is in the Klipsch museum, and the other pair was given to PWK's Biographical Author, Klementovich, subsequently purchased by a former Klipsch Pro Dealer in North Carolina. I was there to measure it and hear it with Martinelli horn on top and it was still called a "Golden Jubilee." So my being less loose with the term "Jubilee" than, seemingly, everyone else,  is mostly my opinion based on historical facts, of which, I have first hand knowledge. So, I stick with my claim that it is the BASS BIN that makes a Jubilee a Jubilee and not the mid-tweeter.

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Just glad I got mine before they become "the best speaker Klipsch never made".:ohmy:

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19 minutes ago, Khornukopia said:

Does anyone have an opinion about rotating 90 degrees the K-402 horn so that it sits on its narrower side?

 

 

How tall is your ceiling? Just try it, rather than solicit opinions from those who may have never owned K-402 horns (I'm on my 3rd pair).

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On 10/29/2018 at 11:36 AM, Chris A said:

  The TADs were apparently made in the US, and use US-based threads (note the metric dimensions on the drawing, but Imperial unit on the mounting threads):

 

Since they were designed by Bert Locanthi, a former JBL engineer, I'm not surprised. Also the use of a 4" Diaphragm has American JBL all over it since everyone else seems to use 3" or some close metric equivalent.

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