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ajsons

La Scala Mods

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3 minutes ago, ajsons said:

Sheet 7. 

Now this one needs to be checked to make sure the dimensions are right. Hopefully, before the end of this week I can check it, along with Sheet 11.

I will repost this sheet after I check it.

 

 

The 35.01 degree bevel on the end of the throat side piece is only correct in the orthographic top down view.

The actual bevel relative to the piece as you would cut it on a saw should be closer to 31.6 degrees.

 

I believe the relative angles for the boards can be checked using a compound angle calculator such as this one.

http://jansson.us/jcompound.html

 

I entered the numbers with side A as the throat side, 90 degrees from the floor, and side B as the throat front, 66.02 degrees from the floor with 125.01 degrees between the pieces due to the 54.99 degree cut at the back of the throat sides.

 

Using the angles from the calculator and figuring some right scalene triangle should make the dimensions somewhat straightforward to calculate if someone has the time.

 

 

That being said,

Linear Geometry in 3D vector space isn't exactly my thing.

 

Cheers,

Josh

throat-side-angles.PNG

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Hello guys.
This thread has me quite interested ,when all the sheets are compiled and gone through is there anyway possible that I could get a PDF copy or some type a copy of these
I’m a highly accomplished Carpender and I would like to do this build as time permits been very successful at making quite a few Klipsch clones and also making four or five pretty amazing tuba subs
I would really love to try this build ,with your permission of course
Thank you
Carl

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Measuring the angle between the edges of the top of the board will give you a different angle than measuring the angle between the faces of the board.

This is due to the miter angle.

 

In the attached quick sketch you can see that the distance between the dashed red lines is greater at the top of the piece when measured in the horizontal plane.

When measured relative to the two faces the distance is less.

This accounts for the difference in measured angle as well. 

 

A table saw would need need to be set for the angle between the faces and not the edges or the cut would not come out right.

 

So the measured angle in the top view is correct, it just wouldn’t be the most helpful to actually make the part in question.

 

C3121832-CD18-4D21-9465-B61D6AE8D771.jpeg

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Welcome back ajsons! 

FYI  I did some polarity checking on my Classics and realized the C15W (both green and silver frames) are out of phase.  When wired 1&3 pos and 2&4 neg (Com, i.e. BLK), cone pushes forward.  

T-30 gold and silver painted drivers are correct, (T1 pos T2 neg).

HF-206 gold driver was was correct.  However, silver painted  HF-206 driver was not.  (for correction T2 pos T1 neg).   

I hope this is clear.

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Yes, Carl, I can make you a pdf copy, although you can save this jpegs and print your own.
And you don't need anybody's permission.
 
Now, where is Lake Mary and how much will charge to build a set?
 
Armando

Hi
I’m near I:4 and Lake Mary blvd
I’ve only look at the plans in bits so far and have no way to know of how much labor will be in to one yet

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This was done in a hurry as I’m getting ready to head for work so I didn’t worry too much about the exact tenths of a degree.

 

I set the bevel angle to 31.6 ish degrees.

 

Next I made a 28.5 degree mark on my crosscut sled.

 

Aligning the piece of wood to the miter angle gave me a cut that sits perfectly on the 35 degree angle needed to match the front piece.

 

I took a square and made a mark at a right angle to the cut edge.

7A7A4C37-1AA1-4900-8163-369117FF5B8D.jpeg

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