Synthetic Motor Oil.....

[carlthess40]

I’ve be a auto tech for 38 plus years
I use Royal purple synthetic oil
In my 1997 power stroke Ford F-350 all I used was RP oil and never changed it. Just the filter and top it off. At 650,000 miles I have to replace a head gasket and the inside still looked new. On a Hyundai that was a2000 had 365,000 miles when I sold it and all I ran was RP I seen the car about a year ago and it had o er 420,000 miles and the man did as I told him about the oil and he has not had any problems with it
My brother has over 60 Vehicles counting is personal and company vehicles and all he uses his royal purple and I swear by that stuff for the service he synthetic oil is the only way to go but be warned if you have any spots on your engine that looks moist synthetic oil were cleaning it out and you will develop or not oil leak because synthetic oil is a cleaner also and will make what seems to be a little seepage into a leak so make sure you have all your head gaskets valve cover gasket’s and so forth in good shape if you’re going to switch over to synthetic oil

[tigerwoodKhorns]

3 hours ago, carlthess40 said:

I’ve be a auto tech for 38 plus years
I use Royal purple synthetic oil
In my 1997 power stroke Ford F-350 all I used was RP oil and never changed it. Just the filter and top it off. At 650,000 miles I have to replace a head gasket and the inside still looked new. On a Hyundai that was a2000 had 365,000 miles when I sold it and all I ran was RP I seen the car about a year ago and it had o er 420,000 miles and the man did as I told him about the oil and he has not had any problems with it
My brother has over 60 Vehicles counting is personal and company vehicles and all he uses his royal purple and I swear by that stuff for the service he synthetic oil is the only way to go but be warned if you have any spots on your engine that looks moist synthetic oil were cleaning it out and you will develop or not oil leak because synthetic oil is a cleaner also and will make what seems to be a little seepage into a leak so make sure you have all your head gaskets valve cover gasket’s and so forth in good shape if you’re going to switch over to synthetic oil

 

Is this any better than Mobile 1? 

 

I checked the royal Purple website and "high mileage" oil helps to keep seals expanded and sealed.  Good to know.

 

[carlthess40]

RP has been the supplier to most of the power plants in the world for over 30 plus years. So if a company prefers that product over any of the other ones for their multi million dollar power plant machinery
Then I think I can trust them with any of my motors
And yes I like it better then mobile one and Amsoil

[ksquared]

An anecdotal report, but I rode a Honda Rebel 250, got it at 700 miles, and rode it 90K more miles.

 

Always used Mobil1 15W-50, and changed every 3000 miles.  It only took about 1.5 qt or so, and was very easy to change.  There was no oil filter, so I felt I couldn't go longer even if the oil itself wasn't breaking down.

 

I still had the original exhaust system, and the original clutch.

 

I saved an incredible amount of money by riding a $900 motorcycle, and sold it all those years later for $500 or so.  I was pushing over 100 mpg on very good days in the summer.

 

At some point, I thought Mobil changed the Mobil1, so maybe now the choice might be different.  I've always understood Royal Purple to be the ultimate in motor oil, but even back then my little Honda Rebel didn't need such an ultimate quality oil.

 

[JL Sargent]

7 hours ago, carlthess40 said:

all I used was RP oil and never changed it.

That is amazing.........What was oil consumption between filter changes? Also, 7.3L diesel or gas burner?

 

[Moosee1955]

Royal purple is indeed the king of oils. It's definitely the slipperiest of oils, little pricey for some, but anything great in life don't come cheap. Like all top synthetic oil, litteraly no engine wear. That's what we strive for.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

[carlthess40]

It was the 7.3 power stroke and I had the added filter. So when I changed filters it was 4.5qt. The engine uses 8 if I remembered right. So it was some where are 12 to 14qts of oil. The trans used 18qts and I split the case onetime pulling something and had to replace it, look like new inside and at that time it had 325,000 miles. Anything and everything had R/P from front to rear end

[tigerwoodKhorns]

16 minutes ago, carlthess40 said:

It was the 7.3 power stroke and I had the added filter. So when I changed filters it was 4.5qt. The engine uses 8 if I remembered right. So it was some where are 12 to 14qts of oil. The trans used 18qts and I split the case onetime pulling something and had to replace it, look like new inside and at that time it had 325,000 miles. Anything and everything had R/P from front to rear end

 

How long can the Royal Purple go between oil changes? 

 

[carlthess40]

That is amazing.........What was oil consumption between filter changes? Also, 7.3L diesel or gas burner?
 

As any 7.3 diesel was about 1qt every 3000 miles. All 7.3’s used some oil

[carlthess40]

 
How long can the Royal Purple go between oil changes? 
 

I never changed it in my 7.3. Just every 5000 miles I would change my two filters and top it off. Some say on the bottles to change every 15,000 miles. Or more
Engines now a days burn cleaner and burn more of the gas that goes into the pistons and that’s just one of the reasons why you can go longer on a oil change. Even with regular oil the new cars say every 5000 miles. The PCV valve and EGR systems are so much improved over the last 10 or 20 years and as Honda has done for any many years is to run the fuel as lean as possible-without burning a piston. As with carbs they wast so much fuel compared to fuel injectors
Of today. I used to drag race and used the flying toilet for alcohol fuel and could run it so lean that the pips would put out a blue flame as the carbs would put out a red/orange flames It’s mostly in the programs g in the ecu of the engine and better tolerance is with the compression rings of the Pistons and the other things like the egr , pcv vavle and stuff on the engine
Also with the crap fuel with 10% or more of water. Aka Ethanol. You should change your fuel filters every 30,000 miles. Car back from the 60’s though the late 70’s you could go 75,000 miles on a fuel filter, not now
One more thing. Even if you have the TPS light system for your tires, don’t do what the tags say on the inside on your door that may say run 32psi or some shit like that
Look at your tires. It will say anything from 44 to 51 or even 75psi max cold air pressure
Run it at what the tire says
I will bet anyone of you that if your running 32 psi in your tires and the tire says run max cold 44 or 51. If you put that psi in the tire, your gas mileage will go up drastically
I’ve had customers that would come to my shop and ask me. What the hell have you done to my car? And I say. WHAT???
Sense I started coming here I’m getting better miles per tank. I’m saying on a 16 gal tank they are getting over 20 or 30 miles more out of a tank of fueling simple
Put the right tire pressure in the tires and change that damn fuel filter every 20,000 miles. And if your plugs say. Good for 100,000 miles. That’s BS. They should be good for 65,000.
Trust me guys. I’m 52 and have been working on car sense the age of 9 and working part time at the age of 15 and full time at 17. I have over 100 factory certificates from ford Chevy Dodge Cummings BMW Mercedes Ferrari Bacardi and the list goes on and on. I’m now disabled for the last 5 years. I made more money after work going to other shops to do what’s called drivability testing. Yes I had all types of scanners and computers for all this shit, hell I even teach for snapon and Marco tools for their scanners
So I think I have a small amount of above knowledge about this stuff
I have a 07 mustang v6 4.0. All I’ve done to it is the cold air intake pipe and better plugs and Royal purple oil and it has 346hp at the wheels.
Why kills me is people put a cold air intake on their cars. That’s great, that put that shiny stainless steal or aluminum pipe on there. Guess what happens when you have a metal pipe inside a engine bay? It gets hot, very hot. Hot air equals less horse power
What I do is rap my cold air intake with a 1” commercial industrial grade rubber and that keeps the air cooler. I’ve done test about this. You have a air temp probe right after the air filter box. What it does is tell the computer what the air temp is and reads what the coolant temp is , maybe around 220f. Old cars did better at 160 to 185
When it reads a high air temp the computer will change the amount of fuel for the injectors and change the timing
And that’s when you get wasted HP and I burned fuel
When the air is cold coming in and staying cold the computer will adjust the timing better and your will get more HP and better fuel mileage. Hell , I even rap my a/c lines with this stuff and my a/c went from 64f on a hot Florida day off 100 plus and after the rapping of the rubber it now goes down to 33f I will take some pics to show you people this. This is not snake oil. It’s Science
Have you ever noticed how much better your car runs in the winter time than it does in the summertime that’s because cold air is more convinced than hot air so you have not O2 when it’s cold

[CECAA850]

I never run my tires at the door sticker pressure, always closer to the max rating on the tire.  I'll start off at max then back off a couple psi at a time till the ride is decent and leave them there.  No, it doesn't wear the center of the tires out.  My last set was changed at 60,000 miles and the center had the same depth as the sides.  Yes, it does help with fuel mileage.

[jason str]

Inflation PSI on the tires is a recommendation from the tire makers, inflation PSI on the vehicle door jamb is where the tires performed best on that particular vehicle during manufacturer testing.

 

Over inflating the tires will help with fuel economy but may sacrifice tire performance and or life.

 

 

[CECAA850]

26 minutes ago, jason str said:

Inflation PSI on the tires is a recommendation from the tire makers, inflation PSI on the vehicle door jamb is where the tires performed best on that particular vehicle during manufacturer testing.

 

Over inflating the tires will help with fuel economy but may sacrifice tire performance and or life.

 

 

  I've never had an issue with longevity or performance when going between door placard and tire rated pressures.  About the only negative I've experienced it a harsher ride if you go too high.  The DPS here locally to do it as well as they ask for max pressure when they come in the shop.  If I had to guess the manufacturers pick a pressure that will sustain the max load for that particular vehicle and not go much higher so that the ride doesn't suffer.  That's just a guess on my part though.

[carlthess40]

Inflation PSI on the tires is a recommendation from the tire makers, inflation PSI on the vehicle door jamb is where the tires performed best on that particular vehicle during manufacturer testing.
 
Over inflating the tires will help with fuel economy but may sacrifice tire performance and or life.
 
 

Your wrong on a few things here
The part of what the car maker says is true
But about the tire pressure of the stated max cold air psi is there for a reason. Tires are made to withstand 30% about max psi
If the tire says max 51psi. There in NO danger of tire failing and what the audio company states on the spec tag is for how the setup the suspension of the vehicles and also for the FDOT speed reading of the vehicle there’s no way in the world that they could say tire pressure should be 36 PSI when there’s over 1 million different types of tires that would fit on that car in all use different pressures but right think I’ve previously stated that he runs his at the Max air any monitors to wear on his tires and adjust the pressure accordingly to get even where is the best thing to do
I’m not some Shadetree mechanic. I was a master asc auto tech for 20 of the 35 plus years of when I was working. Now I can’t work because of my disability, and for the 5 years that I have been disabled, I still get calls from local shops and dealerships for either teaching a class about scanners or what every.

[The Dude]

On ‎11‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 1:17 PM, Moosee1955 said:

What kills me is 80 percent of humans take a shower or bath everyday, but get them to change their oil when they should, is the toughest thing.

If it means anything, people really didn't' start bathing regularly until the 19th century.  More than likely , availability of warm reserved water. 

 

On ‎11‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 1:17 PM, Moosee1955 said:

This is amazing, 135 posts on synthetic oil. Ironically on a Stereo website. We had the same conversation on my Ford expedition site, and even after 2 weeks, we only got like 60 responses.

I have many hobbies and interest.  Yes this forum has more info and active users than any other specialty forum I belong to.  My guess is most of use take things to the extreme   If I want to know how to build a custom RC Car, I more than likely would come here, as I am sure there is someone who has done so.

[jason str]

33 minutes ago, carlthess40 said:

Your wrong on a few things here
The part of what the car maker says is true
But about the tire pressure of the stated max cold air psi is there for a reason. Tires are made to withstand 30% about max psi
If the tire says max 51psi. There in NO danger of tire failing and what the audio company states on the spec tag is for how the setup the suspension of the vehicles and also for the FDOT speed reading of the vehicle there’s no way in the world that they could say tire pressure should be 36 PSI when there’s over 1 million different types of tires that would fit on that car in all use different pressures but right think I’ve previously stated that he runs his at the Max air any monitors to wear on his tires and adjust the pressure accordingly to get even where is the best thing to do
I’m not some Shadetree mechanic. I was a master asc auto tech for 20 of the 35 plus years of when I was working. Now I can’t work because of my disability, and for the 5 years that I have been disabled, I still get calls from local shops and dealerships for either teaching a class about scanners or what every.

 

I'm not wrong on anything and never said anything about tire failure or your credentials, just stating facts in my previous post.

 

If tire inflation was not an issue manufactures would just recommend whatever the tire manufacturer says and not have a front and rear tire inflation specification sticker on each and every vehicle.

[JohnA]

On 11/6/2018 at 1:41 PM, SWL said:

Ok, what PROOF do you have that it is better? I should have asked this from the beginning.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

 

The oil temp of my airplane (Piper Cherokee 6) ran 20F cooler with synthetic over mineral oil.  My '87 Mustang and an '85 Taurus (both with limited idle speed control) both idled ~150 rpm higher with synthetic oil.  My Kawasaki shifts gears with less force running synthetic oil.  My '07 Colorado's oil change computer called for 10k oil changes on Mobil1 vs 3k on mineral oil. 

 

I run synthetic in just about everything, now. 

[Jirachi]

Here's something for you guys to argue over. I had an ad pop up for GoNMF oil additive that reduces friction. "NMF is not a lubricant. It is the only product that takes the approach of removing the cause of friction by reversing the negative-positive bonding electrical relationship into one that is negative-negative (repelling and non-frictional)". I'm not sure if it actually works as they say or can verify any of their claims, but I can absolutely confirm that it made my engine much more quiet. It's quite spendy for a bottle but I can get 3-4 oil changes per bottle. They even sent a hand written card saying thanks so that was neat.  If you're curious there's a 40 minute 'how it works' video out there too. The "see it to believe it" part is about 19 minutes in when he starts using the drill press

 

 

 

Edited November 8, 2018 by Jirachi
Linked the other video

[JohnA]

On 11/6/2018 at 3:02 PM, jason str said:

 

Check valve in the oil pump keeps the oil pressure from getting too high blowing up oil filters, gaskets, seals ETC...

 

No, that is not what a check valve does.  A check valve prevents reverse flow.  it would keep the filter full of oil to prevent a dry start. 

[CECAA850]

14 minutes ago, JohnA said:

 

No, that is not what a check valve does.  A check valve prevents reverse flow.  it would keep the filter full of oil to prevent a dry start. 

I'm sure he meant pressure relief valve.  I think the check valve in the filter is a rubber type cone that acts like a flap.