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Synthetic Motor Oil.....

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10 hours ago, SWL said:

Is it good enough to get 100-150k miles out of your engine? How many people actually keep their vehicle much longer than that these days?

Don't know about synthetic oils, but regular changes with regular oil will prolong the engine life. I got 280k out of my first Volvo, three kids I brought home from the hospital in it learned to drive in it. The replacement Volvo (bought used with 115k on it for $4000 bucks) now has 230k and running well.

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Sea, eye phailed two knowtis thatt fourem softwhere otto "korectid" there too a reedondent "their."  Butt aye wuz ehbul tew eddit.

 

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50 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

 

If I recall correctly, Travis dictates posts to software, which could explain the improper use of their/there.  His sin seems to be failure to edit.  He needs to invest in better software capable of deciphering a Texas accent and using context to select between homophones.

A dictator, eh?

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8 hours ago, jason str said:

too much engine oil pressure will cause a filter explode.

as in the case of my 1970 Boss 302 Mustang. Cold north Tx morning, girl's car won't start, grabs Mustang keys, starts, late for work, doesn't let oil warm, launches, filter blows off, motor melts down

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I have a 2000 civic bought with 30 k miles that only got Dino oil change every 3000 mi when the wife didn't let it go too long. The car now has 250k and still running strong.
I don't know what viscosity honda recommends.
I always uses either 10w30 or 10w40 Penzoil and the dreaded orange can of death aka the El cheapo fram filter.

Never bought synthetic or even tried it on a dare.
But I am one that likes carburetors with a manual choke over fuel injection.

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11 hours ago, Schu said:

Neglected oil doesn't constitute an oil failure... specially an oil failure based on choice, unless the choice is incorrect viscosity... That's an operator error.

How much do you want to lose?

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10 hours ago, dwilawyer said:

 

It isn't bypassed when you have a clean filter, warm or hot oil, regardless of engine speed from everything I have read and what they say at Blackstone.

 

Let me make this easy to understand.

 

Most common filters have a bypass pressure between 8-15 PSI.

 

Oil pressure on a hot engine at cruising speed is normally at least 30 PSI.

 

The pressure differential you spoke of is minimal (say 1 PSI or so) unless you don't change the filter at normal intervals so it really is not a factor.

 

That means most of the oil is sent past the filter unless you are at a hot idle where the filter can really do its job.

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4 hours ago, USNRET said:

as in the case of my 1970 Boss 302 Mustang. Cold north Tx morning, girl's car won't start, grabs Mustang keys, starts, late for work, doesn't let oil warm, launches, filter blows off, motor melts down

 

Normally a high performance engine will have higher oil pressure so the top end of the engine gets oil at higher RPM's.

 

My friends built up 440 would easily peg the oil pressure gauge at 100 PSI at startup even in summer and let me tell you not all oil filters can withstand that kind of pressure.

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=== my car is considered “high performance” and oil pressure is generally right at 60 lbs. —

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At :50 seconds he explains the pressure relief built into the block and at 5:50 he explains the pressure relief built into the filter

 

 

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The first filter which was a Purolator oil filter was named after the consideration of its purpose which is "Pure Oil Later."

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I purchased a used Rabbit about 2 years ago.  When I did I received 4 free oil changes.  Since the oil was changed at the dealer, I never seen what the oil looked like.  I do think they used either Castrol full synthetic or Quaker state.  It was rated for 10,000 miles, at 5,000 I would have to add around a half of a quart.  Performing my own oil change, I noticed that the oil was dirty.   I used Mobil 1 synthetic, "specifically designed for foreign cars".  After 5,000 miles, I have not had to add any oil and it still looks clean.  I used to be loyal to Valvoline until I was told that a majority of the oils are all about the same do to regulations.   I still run Valvoline in my Jeep, but I run the high mileage synthetic and still change around that 3,000 mile range.  Both of my vehicles have over 180,000 miles and run good, no major issues.  If it matters, I commute 55 miles each way 5 days a week.   I am not out to prove anything with my statements, just my situation as everyone has a different story.

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Interesting.... I have always used Mobil 1 as it is cheap at Walmart and fairly well rated when tested on the independent oil testing forums.   I used to have a GTI and it never burned oil, however, many of my buddies that have Audis and VWs that beat on the cars during the break in period have that problem.   Will tell them to give that a try.  Thanks for the info 

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I have worked in Canadian oil industry for 38 plus years.  A large multi-national who makes synthetic internally ... without the marketing mavens around, have told me that synthetic is the way to go.  Personal evidence ... every car since 1979 I have owned has had synthetic oil in it every time.  At -45 (you pick the scale), starting an engine with synthetic is a lot different than starting an engine with conventional (depending on the weight but ...).  I've never had a problem ... TransAm, Corevette, VW GTI, Pontiac Transport, VW Rabbit, Honda Accord, Yukon Denali, 2 x VW Jetta, Nissan Pathfinder.  As with any oil/filter ... keep a good eye on them!

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Turbo and Super charged engines can and usually have a higher oil consumption rate.  Its not uncommon for a Mercedes or BMW whether blown or turbo'd to have to add a quart in between services.  Some of it has to do with how much the engine is staying in the boost that produces more blow-by or (crankcase pressure leaked through the rings) which is like your engine vaping on the oil and using it a tiny bit at a time which is  

The Synthetics have a higher flash temperature and among outboard racers or hi-perf 2 cycle engine the synthetics are a big game changer just do to the fact that the oil doesn't burn much at all and doesn't leave any contaminants in the rings or in the combustion chamber. The left over oil is literally just blown out the exhaust.

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This is amazing, 135 posts on synthetic oil. Ironically on a Stereo website. We had the same conversation on my Ford expedition site, and even after 2 weeks, we only got like 60 responses. What kills me is 80 percent of humans take a shower or bath everyday, but get them to change their oil when they should, is the toughest thing. Like trying to get your 6 year old boy to take a bath. Folks it's not that hard. Regular clean oil and filter = longer engine life. Been proven for over 100 years!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

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My motorcycle (BMW R1200) is known for taking a very long time for the rings to fully seat.  The owners manual states to use dino oil for the first 20,000 then switch to synthetic if you wish. 

 

That says a lot about synthetic. 

 

I have been using a 7500 mile change schedule and I ignore how long timewise between changes (which is usually a few years). 

 

Is that too short of a period, can I go 10K? 

 

I just bought a diesel vehicle based on a Mercedes Sprinter chassis and the owners manual states to use Mobile 1 synthetic and 10K intervals. 

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Turbo and Super charged engines can and usually have a higher oil consumption rate

 

I know that to be true.   I have owned multiple turbo cars including one currently and I have never experience it.   I was very gentle on the cars during break-in and they burn no more oil than standard motors.   Appreciate the explanation though.   For those that think klipsch is addictive, so too is boost I say.   

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7 minutes ago, Moosee1955 said:

This is amazing, 135 posts on synthetic oil. Ironically on a Stereo website. We had the same conversation on my Ford expedition site, and even after 2 weeks, we only got like 60 responses. What kills me is 80 percent of humans take a shower or bath everyday, but get them to change their oil when they should, is the toughest thing. Like trying to get your 6 year old boy to take a bath. Folks it's not that hard. Regular clean oil and filter = longer engine life. Been proven for over 100 years!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

 

Bath is easy, get them to eat well and exercise.

 

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When your six, you can poop out a steady diet of Doritos, Pizza, and 2 candy bars a day. Try doing that at 64! Just about all manufactures recommend Dino oil for break in, about 7,500 miles or so for the rings/cylinder wall cohesiveness. Porsche is one of the few I think that says to use from day 1. Maybe they use a different cylinder material. I remember years back seeing that Mobil 1 sticker on an almost new late 1980's Porsche. They might use Nikasil, or something other than cast iron. Anyone here a Porsche tech that can confirm/deny why?

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

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