Klipsch KLF-10 CROSSOVERS

[Jim]

I just recently purchased a pair of the KLF-10's and wanted to update the crossovers. I had Bob Crites do my KG-4.S's and know I can go that route, but have been contemplating trying something else along the lines of DeanG, or ALK, but I don't have ALK's contact info. Dean hasn't answered any emails from his Facebook pages, so I'm leaning towards ALK. Bob's were nice, but seem to be slightly more bright than what the 4.2's were. Or i guess I could just redo the caps in the stock ones. I also have the cabinet issue with one that I need to address and wanted to know the best way to go about doing them. I don't want to just add a screw to the back and have potential future issues.

 

Any info and help are appreciated.

[Alexander]

You may want to just re cap your oem xovers, a whole lot cheaper while getting the same results. Do a search on theboard for  klf-20's & 30's upgrades for addressing the cabinet issues, most as I did myself use construction adhesive to solve this problem. It worked quite well. At some point I would like to get a set of 10's for the rears of the HT side of my  system.

[Deang]

I haven’t had any emails via my Facebook page in some time. Even so, I don’t have any real interest in doing KLF-10’s. 

[001]

my opinion & suggestion for what it's worth,  is to decide what your budget is & do some research on available caps, sounds like you are ok with paying more for higher quality caps which is fine, but if you know how to solder you can replace them yourself.  & just to clarify... i mean if you actually know how to solder, not that you soldered a broken wire once or tinned some speaker cable ends, i mean if you can do relatively precision soldering on a printed circuit board, but its still pretty basic work to remove & replace a cap.

 

as for the cabinets, some say you need to remove the black melamine surface before re-glueing, & that is probably the best way to do it but is not required, ive read of people just using a construction adhesive like you mentioned & it works great, i even think theres a company that makes an adhesive specifically for melamine.  another option that works great is gorilla glue, follow the instructions on the tube & it works very well on all kinds of surfaces, but to be safe i would at least sand the areas along the seems & corners with some coarse sand paper to help it have some more bite. i did a pair of kg 5.5 i owned that way & it worked great for years before i sold them. had klipsch repair my first set of kg's with the hot glue they use but that was in the 1990's.

 

 

[Jim]

On 11/17/2018 at 9:05 PM, Deang said:

I haven’t had any emails via my Facebook page in some time. Even so, I don’t have any real interest in doing KLF-10’s. 

 

Dean, I sent you a few actually, under James Frace, my picture is with my wife.

 

Jim

[Jim]

On 11/18/2018 at 11:20 AM, EpicKlipschFan said:

my opinion & suggestion for what it's worth,  is to decide what your budget is & do some research on available caps, sounds like you are ok with paying more for higher quality caps which is fine, but if you know how to solder you can replace them yourself.  & just to clarify... i mean if you actually know how to solder, not that you soldered a broken wire once or tinned some speaker cable ends, i mean if you can do relatively precision soldering on a printed circuit board, but its still pretty basic work to remove & replace a cap.

 

as for the cabinets, some say you need to remove the black melamine surface before re-glueing, & that is probably the best way to do it but is not required, ive read of people just using a construction adhesive like you mentioned & it works great, i even think theres a company that makes an adhesive specifically for melamine.  another option that works great is gorilla glue, follow the instructions on the tube & it works very well on all kinds of surfaces, but to be safe i would at least sand the areas along the seems & corners with some coarse sand paper to help it have some more bite. i did a pair of kg 5.5 i owned that way & it worked great for years before i sold them. had klipsch repair my first set of kg's with the hot glue they use but that was in the 1990's.

 

 

 

Thanks for the info, I may try to do them myself. I've done small odds and ends, and redid the caps on one of my turntables and a SUT, so I may be able to handle this. The other info is also appreciated.

[Jim]

On 11/15/2018 at 11:56 PM, Alexander said:

You may want to just re cap your oem xovers, a whole lot cheaper while getting the same results. Do a search on theboard for  klf-20's & 30's upgrades for addressing the cabinet issues, most as I did myself use construction adhesive to solve this problem. It worked quite well. At some point I would like to get a set of 10's for the rears of the HT side of my  system.

 

I think I may go this route.

[001]

20 hours ago, Jim said:

 

Thanks for the info, I may try to do them myself. I've done small odds and ends, and redid the caps on one of my turntables and a SUT, so I may be able to handle this. The other info is also appreciated.

 

you're very welcome.  i comment a lot about caps & x-over rebuilds for people who can solder, it gets mentioned a lot that you need to send them to someone to do it or buy complete new x-overs, when in reality the majority of the improvement is from just replacing the cheap old caps klipsch used in these speakers.  & the cheaper entry level poly caps are a huge improvment over cheap stock caps.  nothing wrong with stepping up a level to "better" caps if you have the budget & can justify it for your speakers or gear, but if you just have an average system & do average listening like a AVR & movies or a pair of say KG2 or 4 or even KLF fortes & chorus, the poly caps for a few bucks a piece will do wonders.  higher end speakers & lascalas or k-horns or guys with amplifiers that cost thousands of dollars or tubes etc, then yes, the better caps are definitely worth it.     

[CANT]

I can't comment on the cab reconstruction portion but crossover wise I would just replace the 2ohm resistor, 1.75uF (1.8uF) cap & 6uF (6.2uF) cap on the HF side and call it good?  If you can fit it maybe the 8uf (8.2uF) on the LF side?  I've never noticed all that much difference when messing around with inductors unless the OEM are of an incredibly poor quality.

 

I would also suggest doing something with the tweeter. Bare minimum replace the stock poly diaphragm with titanium (cheap option)...  if you can, what I would really suggest is finding a pair of K703 horns (ebay) that were used in the KLF20/30 & CF2 and buying a pair of Selenium D202Ti drivers. I personally prefer the K703/D202Ti option in the few instances where I've been able to compare the 2. Example: I am currently running the aforementioned horn/driver combo with a single K28E Heresy III woofer and have a pair of K100Ti hanging out in my garage somewhere.

[Maz4bz]

I'm I bit late to this party so sorry for the late entry here. I did my KG 5.5 crossovers and I heard no real improvement.

 

Biggest bang for buck was taming the tweeter with some "Lpad modules" and bracing/dampening the cabinet.

 

I believe the KLF 10 and KG 5.5's are closely related so you may have similar benefits?

[Jim smith]

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Edited October 1, 2023 by Jim smith