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Heil Air motion transformer for Cornwalls


jwgorman

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I set off the smoke detector in the house... on the first pass with that router, then I tried the "step at a time", and it went easier, and faster... it was too cold outside... I used a 15/64th double flute that I got today, which is the plywood version for a 1/4" - just a hair smaller.... I ordered a Freud 1/4" to save a couple of bucks, from Amazon, so I'll clean it up with that one this weekend, when it get's here from wherever...

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5 minutes ago, windashine said:

I set off the smoke detector in the house... on the first pass with that router, then I tried the "step at a time", and it went easier, and faster... it was too cold outside... I used a 15/64th double flute that I got today, which is the plywood version for a 1/4" - just a hair smaller.... I ordered a Freud 1/4" to save a couple of bucks, from Amazon, so I'll clean it up with that one this weekend, when it get's here from wherever...

You can really do a lot with a router.  They're pretty versatile.  My favorite accessory is a Jasper Jig for making holes.  I believe you can adjust it in 1/16" incements and it's always perfect.  Flush bit router bits are great as well if you have a bit of an overhang.  Sometimes I'll cut a panel a hair big and flush it with the router to get it exact.

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9 hours ago, windashine said:

I set off the smoke detector in the house... on the first pass with that router, then I tried the "step at a time", and it went easier, and faster... it was too cold outside... I used a 15/64th double flute that I got today, which is the plywood version for a 1/4" - just a hair smaller.... I ordered a Freud 1/4" to save a couple of bucks, from Amazon, so I'll clean it up with that one this weekend, when it get's here from wherever...

Yes, holes look a little scorched. :D 

Very nice though.

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re: ESS's 800Hz, electronic crossover, when were they made? (just curious about their power supply cap health) Is there a schematic for that unit online?

 

Does the large AMT keep up well passively x-overed with your Cornwalls?  Back in the day , it seemed to dominate the AMT-1.

 

also, with ~800Hz, crossover, might the large AMT benefit from a baffle ? (that could be examined quickly with cardboard)

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10 hours ago, Khornukopia said:

 

Very nice. What finish do you plan to use on your new cabs?

 

it's just one (a cab) lol … and I plan to make some test joint's, like cut some scrap, and try the sanding sealer, on a couple followed by a light stain, then one with tung oil, one with boiled linseed oil, one with light walnut.... I did that with a drawer I made to match an old hutch my grandmother gave me, but it didn't look right...  I would imagine that I'll just pop open a can of Sherwin William Poly stain in Weathered Driftwood, or whatever it was I have in the garage, that I used in the kitchen... do a coat, sand smooth, then brush on a 2nd coat, and pop a top... the motorboard and inside will be kilz primer with a tan latex probably, which matches my townhome paint... no veneer planned....

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It's Saturday, the thought of testing stain overtook router duties, thus followed by the typical painters beer, From L to R,, unsanded.

Varathane Stain + Poly, Sunbleached Semi Gloss, brushed on raw birch... (toughest)

Boiled Linseed Oil, on raw birch, wiped on... (smoothest)

Behr Semi Transparent Weather Proofing stain & sealer, over wood conditioner, wiped on with a t-shirt - (nice for a deck or fence)

Minwax Dark Walnut, over wood conditioner, one coat wiped on (my son liked this one)

DSC01990b.jpg

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I’m not sure if the dark stain would have been as interesting in some of the other areas were the grain is spread out. I feel that stain brings out detail in tightly grouped grain. When it is spread out it looks like stain on plywood, just not quite right. Oils help the plywood because they just subtly highlight the grain. I’m a fan of oil though. 

 

Great project by the way. I picked up a pair of Heils when they were on sale with this in mind.

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BTW I have just put together a 'Cheby' x-over for the box and AMT. I think Cheby's are used by AL K as they are a little steeper than the std 2nd Order class x-over. I do like what I hear, I seem to get more detail in the sweet spot but depending on your room you may need to pare back the woofer or the AMT a few db.

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On 3/13/2019 at 3:35 AM, consistent said:

have just put together a 'Cheby' x-over

 

…. o O (when attempting a search to see what this is... I just get results for chevy lol) … so if you'll post a picture, I'll put up a picture of the inside of my hollow article bathed in white primer...

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I also have a 3way set up which uses a coil for the Crites woofer at @ -6db 500hz (1st order) then the Cheby for the mid-band and finally a LWR 2nd order for the tweeter @ 8000hz. I have purposely let the Altec 291K (with Le Cleac'h horn) run to its end response as the tweet takes over. I think AL K in his universal lets the K55 run out to about 6k. The tweet is the B & C DE120 that Bob Crites sells with Klipsch wave guide. I have used Bessel, Butterworth and Linkwitz-Riley 1st and 2nd orders but at this point the current set-up is the best for my room and my ears.

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  • 8 months later...

Update:

I have been so impressed with the AMT mod with the Cornwall and with Chris's measurements and observations that I have built a new box (higher than my first) from 1" (25mm) MDF. Padding as per Klipsch design but no bracing (tried it and didn't like it). Still used Roger Floth method. Also did some 'what if' challenges to my current thinking on balancing the network. I have used 1st and 2nd order filters (according to the book) but decided to blend using calculators and response simulators because that's all I know. I don't go crazy or listen at crazy loud but let my ears be the best judge.

 

In my journey I discovered, through my ears, a WOW moment . It didn't look too good on a graph but I tried it anyhow. Simply I used a 2nd order filter on the woofer and a 1st order on the AMT, taking advantage of its natural roll off at around 600hz. I ended up with 3.1mH/23uF on the woofer and 41.5uF for the tweeter which came from blending 39uf with 2.5uF as opposed to one single capacitor; work that out? What I ended up with was about 25% increase in detail, greater texture and harmony and a massive increase in more decisive front-to-back imagery. The AMT sits on top of the box and is about 4ft from the front wall and 3.4ft from the side walls. It sits about 6" back from the front of the woofer. I have lots of diffusion on the front wall and use lots of absorption on rear walls as the room is small. Chris A is correct stating that when using different order filters move the AMT backwards/forwards until you get what sounds best as an alignment. A LR 2nd order at 720hz is also a blast.

 

Love to know what I have actually done from a technical point.

 

cheers

 

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