wuzzzer Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 2 hours ago, JFHSQT said: One idea just occurred to me, wondering if this is feasible or not. Since I do not biwire my La Scala IIs, I'm wondering if (until I get the tweeter swapped out) it would be possible to remove the biwire jumpers on the La Scalas and plug one set of speakers out from my Luxman L509X into the "Low" speaker posts on the La Scalas and plug another set of speaker outs from the Luxman into my RP-150Ms... and using the RP-150ms for the highs. It's gonna sound really screwy. Just keep them hooked up until you get your new tweeter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 You don't need to take your dog house, your tweet is in the tophat. FWIW, the newer LSii's do away with the tweeter protection. Older... Newer And they do sound different. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panelhead Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 I see where they removed the resistor. Which sounds better. I will have to quit mentioning installing a pair of MAHL and DE-120’s in La Scala ii’s. Hoping someone does it and reports back. I have not opened my LS ii up. Leaving alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ODS123 Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 5 hours ago, JFHSQT said: . I just spoke with the service department at Audiotronics here in Roanoke (where I bought the speakers) and he thinks Klipsch will send a new diaphragm under warranty with no issues, in just a few days from AR. It sounds like I'll just be able to bring the doghouse into the service dept and they can swap the diaphragm there, so this may not be as long-term an issue as I had feared. Not to complicate matters but did you consider asking them to send a tech out to your home to do the repair?? Even at your own expense? Given the size of the La Scalla's it'll be a huge PIA for you to box it up and transport it. And every time you do this you run the risk of dinging or scratching them. My dealer offered to send someone out to replace the tweeter in my Cornwall when I noticed that it wasn't completely flush with the baffle (or motorboard as you folks here call it). I ended up asking to have the speakers replaced, which they accommodated. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 Just pull it out... it's a simple screw proceedure unless your VERY me mechanically challenged. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ODS123 Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 1 hour ago, Schu said: Just pull it out... it's a simple screw proceedure unless your VERY me mechanically challenged. Agreed, so long as warranty isn't jeopardize by repair being performed by someone other than a Klipsch approved technician. It would be kinda dickish of Klipsch to refuse future warranty coverage on this basis but they technically could. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 You can see PS1 in the picture on the right side of the board about half way down. Polyswitch 1 looks like a very small disk capacitor. Edit: As Mike points out below, I should have written "pictures." WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 I am not sure which version OP has... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 WMcD is correct both older vs newer pictures have the Polly switch PS1 and the 100 ohm 25 Watt resistor that’s electrically in parallel with it. miketn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbphoto Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 What is the function of R1A in the photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 When the polyswitch goes (it basically works like a circuit breaker), the signal then gets routed through R1A. Normally, the tweeter would not sound dead - just much quieter until the polyswitch cools and resets itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 12 hours ago, ODS123 said: Agreed, so long as warranty isn't jeopardize by repair being performed by someone other than a Klipsch approved technician. It would be kinda dickish of Klipsch to refuse future warranty coverage on this basis but they technically could. I was one of the first AK-4 Klipschorn owners. Shortly after I got them home, I lost a teeter and a midrange driver. The drivers tested good, so I pulled the doors off to inspect the crossovers.The Networks were not on PCBs, but on boards. I found several cold solder joints on each network. I reheated everything and added a bit of solder and everything came back fine. Some time later, I mentioned this to Trey Cannon, who set me up with a new set of the PCB versions, and took my old ones - and promptly sold them to another customer (after being tested). Klipsch could care less if he walks in with the tweeter or the whole damn speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFHSQT Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 It's been a few weeks so I just wanted to follow up on this... Klipsch came through as well as my local dealer (Audiotronics in Roanoke). They ordered a new tweeter and came to the house to replace it today. It wasn't until they put the new tweeter in that I realized BOTH tweeters had been blown, so we're going to do this all over again next week. In the meantime I had picked up a pair of JBL L5s on Craigslist to get me by, and they sounded good enough... but I did blow the woofer on one of them, so now those are toast. Survived the past 2 days with a pair of RP-150Ms. The funny thing is even with "only" 1 bad tweeter now, just how easy it was to forget how amazing the LS IIs sounded when listening to the other speakers. I didn't do any real critical listening with the other speakers but to me they rose to the level of "good stereo system." But when I plugged the LS IIs back in it was just such a whole different world. There were times over the past couple of weeks (with the other speakers) where I actually thought, "man, maybe I am not so excited about my stereo system anymore... maybe I was just caught up in some audiophile sickness and now this little break is the cure?" Now that I have at least 1/2 of my La Scala IIs back though I can say that was definitely not the case. They are amazing... can't wait to get my other tweeter in next week so things can finally get back to normal around here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 On 11/26/2018 at 4:33 PM, Panelhead said: I will have to quit mentioning installing a pair of MAHL and DE-120’s in La Scala ii’s. Hoping someone does it and reports back. I have not opened my LS ii up. Leaving alone. Lots of CT120s have been installed in the Lascala II. Problem is that at some point Klipsch stopped squaring the corners of the cutout for the tweeter. The K-77D does not need them squared but the CT120 does. A few guys have fixed that in a couple of minutes with a file, but not a job for everyone. I do not know exactly when that change to the rounded corners happened but at least the first several years of production, there was not that problem. On another subject, lots of tweeters get blown in the Lascala II. I sell lots of diaphragms and K-77D tweeters to fix those. Problem is that, in my opinion the polyswitch is just not quick enough to operate and prevent damage when something really quick happens. The polyswitch has to heat up so is good for protection from high continuous power, but sudden high power or a quick transient just takes the 2 watt rated tweeter right out. Even in the olden days when the polyswitch was used in the old AL networks, when that network was used in the Pro version Lascalas, they put in zener diodes. Those will handle the quick transients. Bob Crites 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFHSQT Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 10 minutes ago, BEC said: Lots of CT120s have been installed in the Lascala II. Problem is that at some point Klipsch stopped squaring the corners of the cutout for the tweeter. The K-77D does not need them squared but the CT120 does. A few guys have fixed that in a couple of minutes with a file, but not a job for everyone. I do not know exactly when that change to the rounded corners happened but at least the first several years of production, there was not that problem. On another subject, lots of tweeters get blown in the Lascala II. I sell lots of diaphragms and K-77D tweeters to fix those. Problem is that, in my opinion the polyswitch is just not quick enough to operate and prevent damage when something really quick happens. The polyswitch has to heat up so is good for protection from high continuous power, but sudden high power or a quick transient just takes the 2 watt rated tweeter right out. Even in the olden days when the polyswitch was used in the old AL networks, when that network was used in the Pro version Lascalas, they put in zener diodes. Those will handle the quick transients. Bob Crites Thanks Bob, this is what Michael told me when I called you guys. I'm glad that Klipsch honored the warranty and are replacing both tweeters (even though they didn't have to). The technician who came by my house to replace the tweeter did mention that he wasn't surprised that the tweeter blew... basically what you said - quick bursts can't be protected on these things and it only takes a little bit (like a burst of bitstream noise from an LG OLED) to fry them to a crisp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 DJK always recommended installing a standard 561 automotive bulb in line with the tweeter to prevent tweeter failure. Just a bit of cheap insurance to prevent those tweets from burning out again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 I just don't listen that loud... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 Blown tweeters in primary speakers. Blown woofer in backup pair.. Maybe cool your jets on the volume knob a bit? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MEH Synergy Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 1 minute ago, Thaddeus Smith said: Blown tweeters in primary speakers. Blown woofer in backup pair.. Maybe cool your jets on the volume knob a bit? Selll them and go Klipsch Professional. You can get 396s and subs for the same price as a pair of those LA scalas and you will NEVER blow a tweeter or woofer in this setup with proper amplification. Ask me how I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jirachi Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 4 minutes ago, Westcoastdrums said: Selll them and go Klipsch Professional. You can get 396s and subs for the same price as a pair of those LA scalas and you will NEVER blow a tweeter or woofer in this setup with proper amplification. Ask me how I know. How do you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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