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Anyone heard of this "DIY" Sub Company? GSG Audio


MEH Synergy

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T nuts never seem to stay put using MDF, if you happen to get them to work installing the driver they are even more likely to pull out if you ever remove the driver making a big headache.

 

I would just stick with proper screws, yes they can strip out but an easy fix to repair.

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I have two of the Marty, 2 Mini Marty and Marty cube.  These are excellent subs and not just for HT. They are large subs and tuned low.  I had some of these at the same time I had sealed subs and have all vented subs now.  I heard no difference using the vented vs sealed due to the low tuning with music. 

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1 hour ago, Khornukopia said:

CNC cut cabinet pieces in a flat pack, with detailed assembly instructions, at a fair price. One thing I would "upgrade" if assembling some of these is the driver mounting wood screws. I would use machine screws with T-nuts.

 

I agree.  I drill the pilot hole.  Then slightly hammer in the T-Nut.  Then put little drops gorilla glue underneath the T-nut then hammer in flush.

 

Then take the matched bolt with a very large washer and sinch.  Leave this way overnight.  The T-nut is stable......just my experience.

 

Wood screws have worked for me when I've used them even in MDF.  Certainly a quicker process.  What is the consensus here for driver screws?   #8 or #10 coarse thread?

 

jc

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Polyurethane based glues do not work well on metal from my experience, it peels off fairly easy if you wish to test it out for yourself. PLx3 is no better (poly based).

 

If you really want to use T nuts i recommend using jwc's method using shoe goo or epoxy for the adhesive or use 2 or 3 small screws using the screw heads overlapping the installed T nut to assure they won't pull out.

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25 minutes ago, jwc said:

 

I agree.  I drill the pilot hole.  Then slightly hammer in the T-Nut.  Then put little drops gorilla glue underneath the T-nut then hammer in flush.

 

Then take the matched bolt with a very large washer and sinch.  Leave this way overnight.  The T-nut is stable......just my experience.

 

Wood screws have worked for me when I've used them even in MDF.  Certainly a quicker process.  What is the consensus here for driver screws?   #8 or #10 coarse thread?

 

jc

I used #10 1" panhead screws with my daytons. Mounted them in both flat pack sealed boxes and the Marty sub without any issues. 

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16 minutes ago, rockhound said:

Chris let us know what you end up doing! What application will these be used with the 396's? I really don't need anymore subs after buying that F20 but who knows lol.

Yessir.  Beasts need to be complimented by beasts.   These Jbls are I slouch and I've had them a long time, but there is Def room for improvement.   

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