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Gun safe failure - need help (resolved)


wvu80

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What is a dead blow hammer?  And what is the purpose, ie what are we trying to accomplish?  Is the assumption the solenoid is somehow stuck?
 
My concern, maybe my thinking is that there is a known issue with "bad" keypads.  My problem is I have never read or seen what the actual keypad problem is.  Does it not "talk" to the lock mechanism?  As was suggested earlier, is the current provided by the single 9v battery too low?
 
 

A deadblow hammer is a plastic or rubber mallet with steel shots inside of it or ball bearings and as you swing at the ball bearings are at the back of it and when you it something the bearings swing forward and add more force , but with the hammer being plastic or rubber it would not hurt the finish and why did I say to use a dead blow hammer ? Starting at or around the 9 o’clock to 11 o’clock or 12 o’clock position around the keypad
That’s where it may be located at and with that sudden jolt it may help release the the bind or rust inside the solenoid
hammering it might help to loosen it up
all this solenoid is , is a rod with the spring and a magnet that is electrically engaged to swing the rod in or out of the way
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2 hours ago, carlthess40 said:

That’s where it may be located at and with that sudden jolt it may help release the the bind or rust inside the solenoid
hammering it might help to loosen it up.
all this solenoid is , is a rod with the spring and a magnet that is electrically engaged to swing the rod in or out of the way

 

Since everything was 100% OK and then went to catastrophic failure immediately with the loss of the keypad, what is your theory?  Is your thinking the solenoid was partially engaged when there was power failure and then needs to be reset, as it were?

 

There is a known issue with the keypad, we know that, but I haven't yet seen exactly what the problem is.  If I were guessing I would say that maybe half the combination was "taken" by the mechanical lock when failure occurred.  That means if you try to input the combination it is starting with the numbers out of sequence.  Of  course that doesn't make sense because there is a Reset button which should start the sequence back with numeral 1 of six.

 

My problem Carl is I just don't know enough to even formulate the problem, much less come up with a solution.

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I don't know if your son has engaged a locksmith or not but when we have issues with the COMSEC safes on the aircraft a local company (Lock Doc) gets them open while under federal agents eyes. The safes mounted in the aircraft are subjected to heat, cold, vibration.......

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5 minutes ago, USNRET said:

I don't know if your son has engaged a locksmith or not

I think he has contacted three local locksmiths to get estimates and opinions.  I think the consensus answer is they THINK they can open the safe without damaging it but no guarantees.

 

If they can't open it using the keypad their plan would be to drill out the lock, ruining the very expensive safe in the process and it would cost as much as $500.  Scott has access to his agency's firefighter jaws-of-life type of equipment and they assure him they can open the safe, but it would be destroyed in the process.

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15 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

I think he has contacted three local locksmiths to get estimates and opinions.  I think the consensus answer is they THINK they can open the safe without damaging it but no guarantees.

 

If they can't open it using the keypad their plan would be to drill out the lock, ruining the very expensive safe in the process and it would cost as much as $500.  Scott has access to his agency's firefighter jaws-of-life type of equipment and they assure him they can open the safe, but it would be destroyed in the process.

Such is life.
No matter the cost for the safe burglary he needs to retrieve the contents.
Lawyer up on the lifetime warranty yea that'll work....
Take the $ hit and be done.
Take the remains to the firing range and have fun betting what gun / ammo will penetrate

 

 

the very reason that I only have mechanical 

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5 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

So the battery is actually inside the safe?  How did you replace it then or is there more than one door?

The electronic keypad is on the outside of the safe and there is an external handle, the tri-handle type.

 

The dumb terminal Keypad has a 9v battery which is replaceable from the outside the safe, attached within the keypad like a remote controller.  It is attached via a small wiring harness/connector to the lock with the wires running into the physical locking mechanism within the safe.

 

The locking mechanism physically holds the combination, not the dumb terminal.  There is no other entrance to the safe, no secondary key entry behind the keypad like some safes have.

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Endgame:  We are running out of things to try.  He tried a magnet with 350 pounds pull without success.  Vids he watched suggested 300 pounds of force was needed.

 

I think he should bite the bullet and take it to a locksmith but he doesn't want to put $500 into a safe he paid $400 for, and still no guarantee it can be opened without ruining the safe.  The nearest locksmith who works on safes is two hours away.

 

Suggestions?

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Bring to Hope, have folks bet they can open in one hour, gun retrieved, safe destroyed, fun by all money to museum 


I like this one.

I would enjoy attempting a side-channel attack with an oscilloscope across a series R in the power lead to see if I could see a possible difference in good vs bad digits, then possibly leverage that knowledge. It’d require access to a working model too to gather data. Also, I might try an inductive coupler over the keypad to see if I could learn anything about what the micro is doing while trying digits. Just a thought.
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34 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

I'd get into it by any means possible,  retrieve my belongings and trash it.

 

=== agree. And obviously not consider another safe from Cannon. If not for what the contents might certainly be, ammo, I’d torch through the damn thing. And with due respect to the Officer, look to a company known for building TL rated safes made in the US, not consumer grade safes made in China and Mexico and sold through middleman— 

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28 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

I'd get into it by any means possible,  retrieve my belongings and trash it.

I'm pretty much resigned to this plan, at this point.

+++

 

I posted on the Smith and Wesson forums (they make lousy speakers btw) and a lock smith got back to me and said pretty much the same thing.  He confirmed that $500 was the going rate to open a safe, then you have to pay to have it repaired after drilling it open, and pay some more to have the new lock mechanism installed. 

 

In other words, what you said.  Force it open, get stuff, then throw it away.

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Take a gas power chop saw to the bottom
It’s the thinnest part of the safe and the plywood down there will keep the sparks away from any Ammo. Most people put the Ammo up top anyway
Go rent the saw from a construction Rental store and tip the safe on the side and just cut the bottom out of the way. Keep a water hose near by and keep the steel cool and so no file starts

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They don't call that company Cannon for nothing ...

 

and therein lies the solution:

 

image.png.0f34a9d57c76cc385a89c609b415c8c3.png

 

Be sure to add up all of your time, and your son's and present it as a bill to the company in recognition of their efforts to  help you.

Do either of you have a lawyer as a friend?

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