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Gun safe failure - need help (resolved)


wvu80

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After a ton of reading, it could be as simple as the wrong type of battery or if the keypad is bad. He will still need to get the door open to replace it. It’s more likely the solenoid that’s inside that’s come bad. I will be talking to him later today to try the rear earth magnet trick. That’s when you place it on the door near the keypad and slide it around and up to get the rod to pull out of place to open it. This can be done on smaller safes in about 3 seconds aa, but in his. Not to sure
As with changing the keypad, you have to remove the wire plug from the box inside
And since it’s still beeping, that’s leading me to believe it’s the inside spring loaded rod that holds the locks in place

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1 hour ago, carlthess40 said:

And since it’s still beeping, that’s leading me to believe it’s the inside spring loaded rod that holds the locks in place

 

… o O (might be something like the stuff inside has created a outward jam against the door) … thus remedied by one more jostle and pressing the door in while operating the door latch to relieve the pressure on the 6 door lock pin's that were the subject of our cutting theory rivaling the movie "Oceans Eleven" lol

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1 hour ago, whatever55 said:

any update please.... did all go well or did the explosives have to be used......

So far no luck on opening the safe.  I was able to hear the beeps when son was inputting different codes but the beep codes are so rudimentary with only two options, double and triple beeps I can't figure out what's going on.

 

I've been in touch with Carl but with my son's 3p to 3a shift and all-morning sleeping schedule they have not been able to talk with one another yet, but I think another attempt early afternoon might be the next best time.

 

The Department issued him another Glock until he can get his out, but not being able to use his usual duty weapon has really stressed him out.

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27 minutes ago, billybob said:

Maybe a little love tap in the right place...

:o I thought that was the normal first thing to try if something didn't work.

 

 

Hope he gets it open soon, his job is stressful enough.

1 minute ago, TasDom said:

You should seek professional help........

Like it's the first time some here have heard that...

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The lock should have a singular spot that can be physically accessed to activate the release mechanism. There should be a single location to drill through to access a portal and the manufacturer should be able to assist in identifying this spot usually located adjacent to lock on the front door. They may not want to divulge this as it will allow you info to access all of these safes. This is what a locksmith knows and will likely do for $$$. This is the easiest way to break into a safe. Removing hinges, etc will not work. I worked for Diebold as a locksmith long ago and got exposed to many locked up things from vaults to safes and so forth. They all have their alternate access routes for use when all else fails. Good luck.

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18 hours ago, Bosco-d-gama said:

The lock should have a singular spot that can be physically accessed to activate the release mechanism. (respectful snip, just wanted to reference the post)

 

Thanks, I'll pass that info along to my son.  He's indicated that Canon's tech support has not been very supportive. 

 

I talked with him last night for a couple of hours and right now he's thinking a cutting torch but that sounds like an extraordinarily bad idea considering he has valuable guns and some ammo inside.

 

He's contacted a locksmith who he says would drill it open for $400-500 and would leave the safe unusable.  If a guy was paid $100 an hour and worked for five hours that sounds like too much.

 

The next thing he's going to do is something @carlthess40 suggested which is use a rare earth magnet to move the solenoid and release the latch.

 

 

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Just presume the safe to be a loss. Beware also that some safes will lock down ‘tougher’ if someone tries to breech them incorrectly. So torches, hammers etc may have their downsides. Certainly diligence and power tools will eventually work but with some effort. Too often folks buy safes that are overkill for their purposes w/o considering such dilemmas. Had a neighbor who installed a floor safe that rusted shut because of the moisture in the basement. Upon his demise the family tried to access the thing after many decades of sitting idle. The combination lock worked but the door was fused tight. They had it jack hammered out and got it opened and megabucks later found it to be empty. Saw that many times especially with safe deposit boxes. Too often retold stories embellish wealth realities and all that’s in gramps sd box are old pictures and childhood memories.

 

Unsure about the magnet. It is worth a try. But think about it.......... if a simple magnet could open a safe then thieves would be in hog heaven. The gang locks on safes can get insanely complex. The combination frees up the handle which requires a solid 90 degree turn to crank levers and armatures to free the door from as many as 8 bolt latches. Safes are secure.

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Carl, that was pretty cool.  I was waiting on someone recently, turned to my phone for a few minutes of entertainment....  (volume was muted so no idea of what was said, just like this video)

 

None the less, the guy ordered a magnet like that but his was about the size of a dinner plate.  The subtitles warned against getting your fingers between it and the target saying that it could sever a finger.  

 

I found that dubious....and then I remembered just how strong the dime sized magnets on my fridge are....  

 

Hope the safe gets opened.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Wolfbane said:

Could not help but think of the movie 'Thunderbolt and Lightfoot' when I read this thread (they used a recoiless cannon to open a safe in the movie).

"Well, that oughta do it..."  BOOM!

 

"Think ya' used enough dynamite there, Butch?!"

 

 

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