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WTB ---- ALK Crossovers for My La Scalas


pioneerhip

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Just now, CECAA850 said:

I don't believe Dean has ever built a set with adjustable attenuation.  You could always install L-Pads.

I installed L pads already and, I'm sure it's in my head, but it took away from the sound. I recently tried a friend's set of the CornScala-Wall crossovers from ALK and was really floored with the sound. 

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Studies over the decades have found if you remove something from the sound of someones speakers or electronics people won't like it simply because it is different from their only reference (the way it sounded originally) even if what you remove is only distortion). So relax and stop thinking so much, just start playing music and let you system have a month or three to burn in and then see what you think. You will probably find that by then you are well pleased with the improvements that you have made.

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2 hours ago, pioneerhip said:

I installed L pads already and, I'm sure it's in my head, but it took away from the sound. I recently tried a friend's set of the CornScala-Wall crossovers from ALK and was really floored with the sound. 

On his CornScala or your LaScala? I have ALK in my Belle and Cornwall and really like them. All I know is the candy store is a great place and there is too much... so much to enjoy. 

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17 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

I don't believe Dean has ever built a set with adjustable attenuation...

 

I did, for the longest time, but not so much anymore. I'll typically do it for someone who is moving to different horns and larger drivers -- it's the only situation that I feel warrants it. If using the stock drivers, or A-55-G and de120 -- I think a nicely built pair of AA's actually sounds better.

 

Since I was Al's licensed builder for the ALK Universal for some time, I feel it's okay to share an opinion about this:

 

The midrange of the Type A and AA are attenuated 3dB. For those with large rooms and/or for those who like to lean on the volume, the midrange can be a bit much, and of course, most Klipscheads tend to like it loud.

 

Al's networks are shipped 6dB down, and this is what people are mostly hearing. The midrange is dialed down, and the horn doesn't go into distress when you crank it. But, you can accomplish the same thing by dropping down a tap on the T2A. Most change out the 13uF to a 6.8uF, but the truth is -- the change is barely perceptible on Bob's spectrum analyzer. Such is the nature of a 1st order network segment. Now, that is not to say that it will sound the same as an ALK, which is unique in its sound signature (just like the A is different from the AA, etc.)

 

I'm only suggesting that if money is tight, and you want to jack on the volume without bleeding your ears out -- just drop the midrange wire from Tap 4 to Tap 3.

 

There is another way, but it's expensive -- and I know everyone here hates to hear that. :-)

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1 hour ago, Deang said:

 

I did, for the longest time, but not so much anymore. I'll typically do it for someone who is moving to different horns and larger drivers -- it's the only situation that I feel warrants it. If using the stock drivers, or A-55-G and de120 -- I think a nicely built pair of AA's actually sounds better.

 

Since I was Al's licensed builder for the ALK Universal for some time, I feel it's okay to share an opinion about this:

 

The midrange of the Type A and AA are attenuated 3dB. For those with large rooms and/or for those who like to lean on the volume, the midrange can be a bit much, and of course, most Klipscheads tend to like it loud.

 

Al's networks are shipped 6dB down, and this is what people are mostly hearing. The midrange is dialed down, and the horn doesn't go into distress when you crank it. But, you can accomplish the same thing by dropping down a tap on the T2A. Most change out the 13uF to a 6.8uF, but the truth is -- the change is barely perceptible on Bob's spectrum analyzer. Such is the nature of a 1st order network segment. Now, that is not to say that it will sound the same as an ALK, which is unique in its sound signature (just like the A is different from the AA, etc.)

 

I'm only suggesting that if money is tight, and you want to jack on the volume without bleeding your ears out -- just drop the midrange wire from Tap 4 to Tap 3.

Here is the crites crossover I have. No issue dropping it down to tab 3? Should I change the 13uF to 6.8uF as well?

 

A-4500.jpg

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18 hours ago, moray james said:

Studies over the decades have found if you remove something from the sound of someones speakers or electronics people won't like it simply because it is different from their only reference (the way it sounded originally) even if what you remove is only distortion). So relax and stop thinking so much, just start playing music and let you system have a month or three to burn in and then see what you think. You will probably find that by then you are well pleased with the improvements that you have made.

Good advice. I've actually done that already. Had the crites A/4500 for around 2 years and lived with the L pads for about 2 months. 

Deang I went to your facebook page, but it looks like you are taking a break for a while. Still looking at taking some time off, or has something changed?

 

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Well, the short break across the holidays will have to do. I'm already back at it.

 

Drop the wire attached to that coil to Tap 3. Just leave the cap for now. If you like what you hear, get a 6.8uF from Bob and solder it in.

 

Report back.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dropped the wire, replaced the cap. I'm underwhelmed... I think I am just after a different sound than what this combo of crossover / tweeter will offer. Not that there is anything wrong with it and I think it is performing as intended. It didn't do much for the sound that I can really tell. So I am looking at Dean or ALK crossovers. I wish someone close to me had some of Dean's crossovers so I could compare to the ALK crossovers a friend of mine has. Here is the after picture of moving the wire to tap 3. 

a-4500 crossover.jpg

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