Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Anyone out there who has veneered their Klipsch speakers or anything for that matter I could use any pointers or tips you can offer up?   Going to veneer my Supers next week with 22mil Italian Zebrawood.  Bought the tools Jay at Oakwood veneer suggested as well as the gel contact cement.   Once trimmed out and done, not sure whats best for appearance, oil or satin poly?

IMG_0486.JPG

Zebrano_Qtr__96455.1510351425.1280.1280.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can, practice on something small first. "Joe Woodworker" has some great FAQ pages and videos. There are probably good youtube views also. Please keep in mind that any (no matter how small) defects on the surface will show through the veneer. All edges and corners need to be crisp. I would not use poly. Oil is a better alternative. The greater the sheen, the more noticeable any defects will be. 

Good luck and take your time

-Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive only done smaller projects, never a full speaker so cant comment on the installation tips, but there are some good youtube vids & oakwood will give great advice.

 

as for the oil vs poly... either will look good, its up to you on what you prefer. oil looks more natural & will need to be re oiled perodically for best protection.  poly will last much longer & protect better from water stains etc but you will see the thin coating more than oil & if you've never applied it before it can get orange peel or bubbles. i use a foam brush & lightly sand between coats & dont shake the can, just stir it.  & work in a dust free room, lint & debris will stick & show up in poly.

 

that veneer will look great either way you do it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@mopardave

 

I used a solvent based contact adhesive. My expert suggested that water based adhesive would not adhere as well. 

The attached picture is just to show the tools I used. Only assembly aides not shown are 5 or 6 wooden dowels, about 3/8" diameter, that i used to keep the veneer from touching the cabinet while I aligned the veneer. Keep your overlaps small or your grain patterns will not match well. (I found that a 3/8" overlap worked for me.)

It can be tricky to get everything just right. But just be patient and practice on some samples first.

 

You can go back and review some of the thread i posted last year when I did my Cornwalls. It was not really a "how to" thread, but it might help.

 

Good luck.

Jerry

5a8c66a2465c8_Toolsneededtoapplyveneer.thumb.jpeg.ff7923e7330a29c40411ab08f510e738.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, TFR1 said:

@mopardave

 

I used a paper backed 22mil veneer.

 

Jerry

Something else I just thought of. Will I need edge banding for around the front of the Heresy's?   I had planned on using same veneer around that with squared cuts just as Klipsch built them. All squared corners.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@mopardave

 

I applied edge banding. It was very easy to iron on. But using the veneer you have already purchased is a good idea. 

 

I would suggest that you miter cut the corners. All the Klipsch cabinets that I have seen veneered have 45degree miter cut corners.

(I believe only the Raw Birch cabs have unfinished butt joints at the corners)

 

jerry

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For perfect mitered veneer corners, you can slightly overlap the two perpendicular pieces at the joint. Then I use a speed square and align the 45° side to the corner. Use a razor to cut through both layers at the same time. Remove scrap and you will have a perfect joint.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only use the Titebond II and iron on method if your veneer has a backing. If you use that method on raw veneer it will seep through any imperfections in the wood grain and it will never accept stain or oil like the wood will.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, capo72 said:

For perfect mitered veneer corners, you can slightly overlap the two perpendicular pieces at the joint. Then I use a speed square and align the 45° side to the corner. Use a razor to cut through both layers at the same time. Remove scrap and you will have a perfect joint.

Use a razor blade as stated!  I don't know what I was thinking and used a box knife on one of my miters on a receiver cabinet which left a tiny gap.  Fill and stain made it disappear 95% but it's still noticeable.  I felt really stupid which is why you should never rush.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, muel said:

Use a razor blade as stated!  I don't know what I was thinking and used a box knife on one of my miters on a receiver cabinet which left a tiny gap.  Fill and stain made it disappear 95% but it's still noticeable.  I felt really stupid which is why you should never rush.  

Very good advice.  I think I have all the tools needed including a router with a downward spiral bit for trimming the edges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...